Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / January 2005
How do I get great results from my D70?
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Sheldon - 22 Jan 2005 18:25 GMT Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop (unsharpening masks, etc.), and I'd love to know if there is a good step by step primer out there. I have PhotoShop, but only use it for minimal things with my p&s camera.
I don't need a primer on taking great photos. I need help making sure my final image is as crisp and sharp as I can get it with the equipment I've got.
Thanks.
Sheldon sheldon@sopris.net
Ed Ruf - 22 Jan 2005 20:56 GMT >Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from >my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >final image is as crisp and sharp as I can get it with the equipment I've >got. You might start with Thom Hogan's eBook on the D70. http://www.bythom.com/d70guide.htm ---------- Ed Ruf Lifetime AMA# 344007 (Usenet@EdwardG.Ruf.com) See images taken with my CP-990/5700 & D70 at http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html
Mac Tabak - 22 Jan 2005 21:15 GMT > Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from > my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Sheldon > sheldon@sopris.net You will have to learn Photoshop if you want high quality shots, without it they will be pale in comparison to others who know how to use it.
MT
All Things Mopar - 22 Jan 2005 23:11 GMT Mac Tabak commented courteously ...
> You will have to learn Photoshop if you want > high quality shots, without it they will be > pale in comparison to others who know how to > use it. Or, Paint Shop Pro 9, at 1/5 the price. But then, it matters much more how good you are with a graphics program than it does which one you buy!
 Signature [when I get un-lazy, my sig will go here]
Wolfgang Weisselberg - 23 Jan 2005 17:57 GMT > Mac Tabak commented courteously ...
>> You will have to learn Photoshop if you want >> high quality shots, without it they will be >> pale in comparison to others who know how to >> use it. People made high quality shots in the past, without involving computers at all. (They also managed tons of bad shots, of course.) Care to "enhance" any of those? :-)
> Or, Paint Shop Pro 9, at 1/5 the price. But then, it > matters much more how good you are with a graphics program > than it does which one you buy! Or The Gimp at 1/infinity of the price[1]. I found http://www.gimpguru.org/Tutorials/ to help quite a bit, though not the end of all knowledge.
-Wolfgang
[1]
Wolfgang Weisselberg - 24 Jan 2005 15:34 GMT > Mac Tabak commented courteously ...
>> You will have to learn Photoshop if you want >> high quality shots, without it they will be >> pale in comparison to others who know how to >> use it. People made high quality shots in the past, without involving computers at all. (They also managed tons of bad shots, of course.) Care to "enhance" any of those? :-)
> Or, Paint Shop Pro 9, at 1/5 the price. But then, it > matters much more how good you are with a graphics program > than it does which one you buy! Or The Gimp at 1/infinity of the price[1]. I found http://www.gimpguru.org/Tutorials/ to help quite a bit, though not the end of all knowledge.
-Wolfgang
[1] http://www.gimp.org
PS: Superseeded because I forgot the URL in [1].
Alan Browne - 24 Jan 2005 16:45 GMT > Or The Gimp at 1/infinity of the price[1]. I found > http://www.gimpguru.org/Tutorials/ [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > PS: Superseeded because I forgot the URL in [1]. Gimp is a clumsy program to use, unfortunately. I've run it under Windows and Linux and you simpy cannot work as smoothly as Photoshop. As to price, LE was bundled with my first scanner and elements 2.0 with my second scanner.
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Sheldon - 25 Jan 2005 02:10 GMT I've got LE, which is probably more than I need, and I have a copy of PhotoShop5 I never loaded. What is the easiest way to convert NEF files to genuine RAW or TIFF files that PhotoShop can see?
>> Or The Gimp at 1/infinity of the price[1]. I found >> http://www.gimpguru.org/Tutorials/ [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > price, LE was bundled with my first scanner and elements 2.0 with my > second scanner. Wolfgang Weisselberg - 25 Jan 2005 12:09 GMT >> Or The Gimp at 1/infinity of the price[1]. I found
> Gimp is a clumsy program to use, unfortunately. I guess that you _ought_ to get something extra out of Photoshop, given that you do pay for it --- even if you 'just' have to buy a scanner. If it saves you hassle, Photoshop may well be worth it's full price and more to you.
Since "I don't do Windows", I use The Gimp. It certainly is not perfect, but I can write (and have written) plugins to support and automate my personal workflow.
-Wolfgang
Alan Browne - 25 Jan 2005 14:38 GMT > I guess that you _ought_ to get something extra out of Photoshop, > given that you do pay for it --- even if you 'just' have to buy a > scanner. If it saves you hassle, Photoshop may well be worth it's > full price and more to you. It may go further, I may need to get the full CS version at some point in order to have the RAW converter for my (as yet unpurchased) digital camera. Apparently the OEM converter is not as good as the Photoshop converter.
> Since "I don't do Windows", I use The Gimp. It certainly is not > perfect, but I can write (and have written) plugins to support > and automate my personal workflow. Not many people are going to write their own plugins for Gimp/PS. I don't believe that photography really demands that photographers should have to do so, either.
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Wolfgang Weisselberg - 27 Jan 2005 18:23 GMT >> I guess that you _ought_ to get something extra out of Photoshop, >> given that you do pay for it --- even if you 'just' have to buy a >> scanner. If it saves you hassle, Photoshop may well be worth it's >> full price and more to you.
> It may go further, I may need to get the full CS version at some point in order > to have the RAW converter for my (as yet unpurchased) digital camera. > Apparently the OEM converter is not as good as the Photoshop converter. I have heard good things said about dcraw.
>> Since "I don't do Windows", I use The Gimp. It certainly is not >> perfect, but I can write (and have written) plugins to support >> and automate my personal workflow.
> Not many people are going to write their own plugins for Gimp/PS. Enough people do ... after all, there are so many plugins out there :-)
> I don't believe that photography really demands that photographers should > have to do so, either. True! The whole analog photograpy gets by without photoshop or related programs, and I don't hear them being unable to produce good photos.
Being a programmer by trade, I prefer to do it my way -- and am happy that I can do that, instead of being limited to "the typical photorapher" (which is probably similar to you being restricted to point&shoot automatics).
Photoshop has a 'recording' facility, I hear tell, usable for batch mode? Similar thing in spirit, though being much more restrictive and having a completely different interface.
-Wolfgang
Alan Browne - 27 Jan 2005 19:29 GMT >>>I guess that you _ought_ to get something extra out of Photoshop, >>>given that you do pay for it --- even if you 'just' have to buy a [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Enough people do ... after all, there are so many plugins out > there :-) Could be, but I doubt the majority of photographers would want to learn how. I wrote s/w (assembler, Fortran, Ada, Pascal, ...) over a period of about 12 years or so... but the notion of writing s/w for a camera interface doesn't interest me at all.
>>I don't believe that photography really demands that photographers should >>have to do so, either. > > True! The whole analog photograpy gets by without photoshop or > related programs, and I don't hear them being unable to produce > good photos. There is a large, but disappearing, breed of amateur and professional photographers who are highly adept at darkroom printing techniques. Photoshop can do more, but there is a certain 'artlessness' about it.
> Being a programmer by trade, I prefer to do it my way -- and am > happy that I can do that, instead of being limited to "the typical > photorapher" (which is probably similar to you being restricted > to point&shoot automatics). See above. But it still doesn't interest me. OTOH I wrote my GPS interfaces and utes to 'do it my way'.
> Photoshop has a 'recording' facility, I hear tell, usable for > batch mode? Similar thing in spirit, though being much more > restrictive and having a completely different interface. For some manipulations that would be fine. For something like USM, each image at each size has to be tailor USM'd. (Unless a very similar subject like cookie-cutter portraits).
Cheers, Alan
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Wolfgang Weisselberg - 29 Jan 2005 00:49 GMT >> Photoshop has a 'recording' facility, I hear tell, usable for >> batch mode? Similar thing in spirit, though being much more >> restrictive and having a completely different interface.
> For some manipulations that would be fine. For something like USM, each image > at each size has to be tailor USM'd. (Unless a very similar subject like > cookie-cutter portraits). That's exactly what I meant with "restrictive".
-Wolfgang
Alan Browne - 29 Jan 2005 20:36 GMT >>>Photoshop has a 'recording' facility, I hear tell, usable for >>>batch mode? Similar thing in spirit, though being much more [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > That's exactly what I meant with "restrictive". I thought so, I just like examples.
Cheers, Alan
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Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 22 Jan 2005 21:26 GMT > Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from > my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Sheldon > sheldon@sopris.net One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to fill the body of the camera with petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
One member of my local camera club (St Ignatius Hospital Snappers) went a step further and used hot fat from a frying pan - removing the dust cap, and pouring the fat (he used old lard that contained fragments of bacon and egg yolks - but I don't see why clean cooking oil wouldn't work) all over the sensor.
He swore that it made a very noticeable difference - and I see no reason to disbelieve him.
(note - hot fat can be dangerous - unless you have a steady hand, get someone else to pour it in)
chrlz@go.com - 22 Jan 2005 23:38 GMT Geez, I'm rollin' in the aisles after that one.
Oh, sorry, wrong thread, forget what I said above. Don't give up your day position at the asylum.
Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 22 Jan 2005 23:50 GMT > Geez, I'm rollin' in the aisles after that one. > > Oh, sorry, wrong thread, forget what I said above. Don't give up your =======================
I'm afraid that there's no possibility of that - not with the suspicious buggers that they have on mental health review boards these days!
So it looks as though I'll be in the St Ignatius photography group for quite some time to come - oddly enough, some of our keenest members are from the Saint Vitus Dance section, Oih Veh!! - talk about blurry images!!!.....
Susan Cohen - 23 Jan 2005 02:56 GMT > > Geez, I'm rollin' in the aisles after that one. > > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > some time to come - oddly enough, some of our keenest members are from the > Saint Vitus Dance section, Oih Veh!! - talk about blurry images!!!..... Its *Oy Vey*, scumbag.
Susan
Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 23 Jan 2005 03:03 GMT >> > Geez, I'm rollin' in the aisles after that one. >> > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Its *Oy Vey*, scumbag. ======================================
Sorry about your glamour photo's, dear, but, as I've already explained, it wasn't my fault - a 7 mm extreme wide-angle lens, already!, and I *still* couldn't fit your entire body in the frame!!!.....Oih Veh!! (which is how we pronounce it a Wigan synagogue...)
Susan Cohen - 23 Jan 2005 03:13 GMT > > Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel wrote: > >> > Geez, I'm rollin' in the aisles after that one. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > wasn't my fault - a 7 mm extreme wide-angle lens, already!, and I *still* > couldn't fit your entire body in the frame!!! Next time use the fish-eye and stand further back.
>.....Oih Veh!! (which is how we > pronounce it a Wigan synagogue...) Sure it is.
Susan
Sheldon - 23 Jan 2005 01:03 GMT > One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to fill > the body of the camera with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > and egg yolks - but I don't see why clean cooking oil wouldn't work) all > over the sensor. I tried both these methods with my p&s camera, but it was a real bitch prying the lens off to pour the fat in. this is why I got the D70. The lens just pops right off making the procedure much easier. By the way, can I use vegetarian Bacon Bits instead of real bacon?
Susan Cohen - 23 Jan 2005 03:00 GMT > > One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to fill > > the body of the camera with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > lens just pops right off making the procedure much easier. By the way, can > I use vegetarian Bacon Bits instead of real bacon? Vegetable oil should work fine as a substitute. I think Pinky mentioned Vaseline because the dirty little pig likes being smeared with it.
Susan
Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 23 Jan 2005 03:10 GMT >> > One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to > fill [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Susan =========================
Or, as we used to chant in school.....
"Rich girls, the use Vaseline, Poor girls, they use lard, Dinah uses axle grease Because her Canon EF-S 17-85MM F/4-5.6 IS USM lens mount is so hard"
(or summat like that...)
Susan Cohen - 23 Jan 2005 03:15 GMT > > Sheldon wrote: > >> > One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > (or summat like that...) I always preferred the Nikon bayonet mount myself. Never had a problem with it.
Susan
Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 23 Jan 2005 03:22 GMT >> > Sheldon wrote: >> >> > One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > I always preferred the Nikon bayonet mount myself. > Never had a problem with it. ==================================
Yes, well, you're the Photographer!
You know, my dear, I'm really going to have to treat this newsgroup like the rest of my delicate ;electronic equipment and make it 'Serge' protected!!....Bwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Susan Cohen - 23 Jan 2005 03:31 GMT > > Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel wrote: > >> > Sheldon wrote: [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > You know, my dear, I'm really going to have to treat this newsgroup like the > rest of my delicate ;electronic equipment and make it 'Serge' protected!!
Who is Serge?
Besides all you really need is a good tripod to stop all those nasty vibrations from ruining your holiday snaps.
Susan
Pinky & Perky sing the Horst Wessel - 23 Jan 2005 15:36 GMT >> One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to fill >> the body of the camera with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I tried both these methods with my p&s camera, but it was a real bitch > prying the lens off to pour the fat in. this is why I got the D70< =======================
That's a fairly typical newbie error - with P&S cameras you have to take out the batteries and trickle the fat in through the battery compartment.
Smaller electronics, like mobile phone's, on the other hand, work best if completely immersed in a deep fryer, or similar(I always find that those amusing musical ring tones sound better afterwards)
Don't be too hard on yourself , you'll learn - we all made the same mistakes when starting out.
Susan Cohen - 24 Jan 2005 03:04 GMT > >> One user tip that I picked up in www.moderndigitalkamera.com is to fill > >> the body of the camera with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > completely immersed in a deep fryer, or similar(I always find that those > amusing musical ring tones sound better afterwards) Just remember to take the batteries out too.
> Don't be too hard on yourself , you'll learn - we all made the same mistakes > when starting out. I never did!
Susan
Alan Browne- - 22 Jan 2005 22:39 GMT > Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from > my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > final image is as crisp and sharp as I can get it with the equipment I've > got. 1) Tripod. Cable release. Critical focus.
2) Photoshop
At full size: After cropping, adjusting brightenss, contrast, color, etc., After removing pimples ... Save the 'master' at full size, no sharpenning
(Don't use the generic sharpen. It will look okay for some images and will be bad to a disaster on most. USM is a very good tool).
My technique:
-Before entering the filter Set the image to 100% view (IMPORTANT!!!) -Filter-Unsharp Mask -Set sharpenning to 100% -set radius to 0.4 -set levels to 2
Iterate: turn the preview on and off to see the effect of the above settings and changes. The little windo in the dialog box is faily useless IMO. Concentrate on in-focus detailed areas of the whole image view (This is why that needs to be at 100% view).
If not sharp enough looking, then play with the radius. Usually a radius up to no more than 2.0 will do. If radius is not effective, then reduce levels, and replay with radius. If that's not effective, then increase 'sharpness'
Watch EDGES for the formation of halos. When halos appear you have over sharpened.
When it looks right, save that edition, reload the 'master' of that image and resize to the next desired size and repeat the above.
KEY: USM is only valid at one size. The settings that work at one size will not work at another size. Further, what 'works' depends on the detail captured int he image. Higher detail typically requires a higher radius number in my experience.
YMMV.
Cheers, Alan.
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Sheldon - 23 Jan 2005 00:55 GMT Thanks for the tips. This is the kind of info I'm looking for, and should get me started on the right track. I realize this isn't a one size fits all approach, but it's something to play with.
Sheldon
>> Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results >> from my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > Cheers, > Alan. paul - 23 Jan 2005 01:52 GMT Here's an intro to photoshop for photography: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/instant_photoshop.shtml although I would skip levels & find another tutorial for curves.
Sheldon - 23 Jan 2005 05:07 GMT Thanks.
> Here's an intro to photoshop for photography: > http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/instant_photoshop.shtml > although I would skip levels & find another tutorial for curves. DoN. Nichols - 23 Jan 2005 01:23 GMT [ ... ]
>> I don't need a primer on taking great photos. I need help making sure my >> final image is as crisp and sharp as I can get it with the equipment I've >> got. > >1) Tripod. Cable release. Critical focus. I'll leave the Photoshop advice alone, but I do wonder how you can use a cable release on the D70. Your choice appears to be to either use the (optional) remote control, or to use a computer connected to it via USB cable.
This makes me wonder whether it is possible to make an electronic cable release for the camera using a programmable microchip with a USB interface?
Enjoy, DoN.
 Signature Email: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
Sheldon - 23 Jan 2005 05:06 GMT What if you use the self timer, although I hear the camera resets after you use it.
> [ ... ] > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Enjoy, > DoN. DoN. Nichols - 23 Jan 2005 22:02 GMT [ ... ]
[ ... ]
>> I'll leave the Photoshop advice alone, but I do wonder how you >> can use a cable release on the D70. Your choice appears to be to either [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >> electronic cable release for the camera using a programmable microchip >> with a USB interface?
>What if you use the self timer, although I hear the camera resets after you >use it. I thought of that after I hit 'S'end. :-) But it does strike me as being rather awkward, in any case.
I have not yet used the self timer, so I wonder -- does the mirror move when you start the self timer, allowing the induced vibration to settle down before the actual shutter actuation?
Enjoy, DoN.
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Ronnie Sellar - 25 Jan 2005 08:42 GMT > [ ... ] <SNIP>
> I have not yet used the self timer, so I wonder -- does the > mirror move when you start the self timer, allowing the induced > vibration to settle down before the actual shutter actuation? No the mirror does not come up on the D70 until just before the shutter opens as normal. There's no attempt to get the mirror out of the way when the shutter button is pressed. If you have a PDA running PalmOS with an infrared port you can get a program that will act as the remote release. There was a thread about it somewhere recently.
Ronnie
Alan Browne- - 23 Jan 2005 16:41 GMT > I'll leave the Photoshop advice alone, but I do wonder how you > can use a cable release on the D70. Your choice appears to be to either [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > electronic cable release for the camera using a programmable microchip > with a USB interface? The D70 doesn't have a cable release?! Tsk-Tsk. So much for those who refer to it as high end... it's not even middle-end.
Does it have a timer?
Cheers, Alan
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AstroPax - 23 Jan 2005 18:08 GMT >The D70 doesn't have a cable release?! Tsk-Tsk. So much for those who >refer to it as high end... it's not even middle-end. No, actually, it's a *low end* DSLR.
Who is referring to it as "high end"?
Anyway, no, it does not have a cable release. Instead, it uses an ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control that cost $16, if you can find one in stock.
Or, you can program most TV remote controls to do the same thing.
>Does it have a timer? Yes it has a self-timer, except the only problem is that it defaults back to normal shutter release every time you use it. So you have to re-set it to self-timer for every subsequent self-timed shot.
I wish they would/could fix the self-timer reset nonsense with a firmware rev.
-Astro
--- AstroPax Photography http://nikon.astropax.com ---
Alan Browne- - 23 Jan 2005 18:49 GMT >>The D70 doesn't have a cable release?! Tsk-Tsk. So much for those who >>refer to it as high end... it's not even middle-end. > > No, actually, it's a *low end* DSLR. > > Who is referring to it as "high end"? Certainly not me. See "Finally did it" thread...
> Anyway, no, it does not have a cable release. Instead, it uses an > ML-L3 Wireless Remote Control that cost $16, if you can find one in > stock. That's an acceptable alternate. At that price, cheaper than most
> Or, you can program most TV remote controls to do the same thing. Even better. Maybe not, better to have a proper shutter like switch to do the job if possible.
>>Does it have a timer? > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > I wish they would/could fix the self-timer reset nonsense with a > firmware rev. And ... does it have a timer mode that lifts the mirror a couple seconds ahead of the shutter release? (a quick look at dpreview is inconclusive..)
Cheers, Alan
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AstroPax - 23 Jan 2005 18:58 GMT >And ... does it have a timer mode that lifts the mirror a couple seconds >ahead of the shutter release? (a quick look at dpreview is inconclusive..) No, it does not have a mirror lock-up (anti-shock) mode.
However, all other current Nikon D series (including the D2X) are equipped with a mirror lock-up (anti-shock) mode.
On a similar note: The D70 does have a function that will lock-up the mirror for sensor cleaning.
-Astro
--- AstroPax Photography http://nikon.astropax.com ---
Sheldon - 24 Jan 2005 00:34 GMT >>And ... does it have a timer mode that lifts the mirror a couple seconds >>ahead of the shutter release? (a quick look at dpreview is [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > -Astro When you think about it, how bad can the vibration be, as the mirror on the D70 is smaller (lighter?) than a full-frame DSLR or a 35mm camera?
paul - 24 Jan 2005 05:29 GMT Sheldon wrote regarding mirror shake:
> When you think about it, how bad can the vibration be, as the mirror on the > D70 is smaller (lighter?) than a full-frame DSLR or a 35mm camera? I used a flimsy tripod with a big heavy lense hanging over precariously a couple inches from the subject to do some macros (playing around) and I could actually see the camera wobble after taking a picture. The pics weren't too bad because it was more a post-snap cumulative wobble & a fast shutter speed.
Before anyone laughs too hard at me it's an old 1950's vintage 'reporter' model with a cool ball mount & telescoping tubular metal legs (though probably not sturdier than a cheapo plastic one). The makeshift lens contraption was almost 12-inches long & heavy.
Alan Browne - 24 Jan 2005 15:22 GMT > Sheldon wrote regarding mirror shake: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > weren't too bad because it was more a post-snap cumulative wobble & a > fast shutter speed. The rule of thumb to choose to use mirror lockup is around 1/8 down to 1/125 being the range of mirror slap induced vibration that will blur a photo. (I've heard some people say 1 sec down to 1/125th as well).
If a tripod is a "wobbler" (was the center post extended?) and the shutter speed is slow, then a manual mirror lockup (aka "true mirror lockup") is best. My Max 9 has a 2 second delay timer mirror lockup which I believe is a little too generous ... 1 sec would have been enough.
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Alan Browne - 24 Jan 2005 15:16 GMT > When you think about it, how bad can the vibration be, as the mirror on the > D70 is smaller (lighter?) than a full-frame DSLR or a 35mm camera? The mirror slaps against stops at the far end of travel. The resulting vibration depends on the body contruction and how it responds to that slap and damps the vibration over time. Every camera has a different damping characteristic. Further, if you mount the camera on a tripod, then it too becomes part of the system, may be stimumated into oscilation and add to the blur. (Another reason to avoid extending the centre column of the tripod).
In the end the D70 mirror might have less mirror slap than, eg an F100, but it will still have slap.
Cheers, Alan
 Signature -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.
Sheldon - 25 Jan 2005 02:13 GMT >> When you think about it, how bad can the vibration be, as the mirror on >> the D70 is smaller (lighter?) than a full-frame DSLR or a 35mm camera? [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Cheers, > Alan Too bad. The smaller the camera the bigger the tripod you need. :-)
Remco Raaphorst - 25 Jan 2005 08:50 GMT >> In the end the D70 mirror might have less mirror slap than, eg an >> F100, but it will still have slap. > > Too bad. The smaller the camera the bigger the tripod you need. > :-) Is the mirror in a D70 as big/heavy as the one in a F100? after all the DX sensor is smaller than 35mm film.
 Signature groeten, Remco
homepage: http://nmig.musiceert.nl Mail : remco at isgitarist dot nl
Alan Browne - 25 Jan 2005 14:20 GMT > Too bad. The smaller the camera the bigger the tripod you need. :-) Tripods need two characteristics which sometime oppose each other:
-rigidity -damping
The 'cheap' way to achieve the first is to make tripods large and heavy.
The expensive way to achieve the second is, in part, with carbon-fibre legs.
Cheers, Alan
 Signature -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch.
C J Campbell - 23 Jan 2005 08:08 GMT > Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from > my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop > (unsharpening masks, etc.), and I'd love to know if there is a good step by > step primer out there. In this case, "How to Wow Photoshop for Photography" by Jack Davis and Ben Willmore will probably show you some of the more interesting techniques.
Don F - 24 Jan 2005 13:57 GMT > Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results from > my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Sheldon > sheldon@sopris.net --------------------------------------
There are several good tutorials but here is one I found very useful.
http://members.aol.com/bhaber/D70/index.html
Regards, Don F
Sheldon - 25 Jan 2005 02:14 GMT Thanks.
Sheldon
>> Is there a good source that will teach me how to get the best results >> from my D70? I keep hearing about "developing" the image in Photoshop [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > Regards, Don F redcat - 24 Jan 2005 21:18 GMT go to www.lynda.com and check out the video based tutorials on Digital Photography with photoshop, part 1 and 2. I promise you its the quickest way to learn.
have fun! i just got my D70 and it rocks!! sri
Sheldon - 25 Jan 2005 02:15 GMT Thanks
Sheldon
> go to www.lynda.com and check out the video based tutorials on Digital > Photography with photoshop, part 1 and 2. I promise you its the > quickest way to learn. > > have fun! i just got my D70 and it rocks!! > sri
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