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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / November 2005

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Uneven transitions between shots stitched into a ponarama

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C J Southern - 26 Nov 2005 19:28 GMT
Hi all,

Yesterday I took a series of shots with my 20D and turned them into a
parorama with The Panorama Factory software.

I was careful to take them all in manual mode (1/2000 - F5.6 - ISO 200). I
haven't instructed the program to save the pamorama as a single tiff file
yet (so not sure if this will produce a different result), but when I save
the image as a PSD (PhotoShop Data) I end up with 6 image layers and 6
exposure correction layers - and a bunch of VERY obvious brightness
transitions between the shots (even though I instructed the program to make
automatic exposure corrections, and the fact the the shots were taken
seconds apart, with no variation in exposure).

Any ideas anyone?

Cheers,

Colin
Rudy Benner - 26 Nov 2005 20:01 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Colin

Yes, I have had the same problem with some pre-dawn panoramas. No solution
found. Manual everything.

Under good lighting, I get excellent results.

Stumped.
Scott W - 26 Nov 2005 23:04 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Colin

Try PTGui, they have greatly improved their brightness and color
balancing between photos.  

Scott
nv - 26 Nov 2005 23:07 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Colin

I understand that PTGui5.5 is the current standard bearer for stiching
software. At least, according to this guy it is. Check this out:
http://www.pbase.com/apy_jr/image/52786746/original
Albert is also very amenable to helping out with tips and guidance, so why
not drop him an email. Alternatively, he can be found frequenting our Kodak
SLR forum at dpreview.com under the handle 'APY_Jr'.

hth

Nigel
Hussam - 29 Nov 2005 10:22 GMT
I've tried MANY different stitching software and PTGui is really the
best.  I ended up buying it and very happy with the results.

Highly recommended.

> > Hi all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 26 lines]
>
> Nigel
Bart van der Wolf - 27 Nov 2005 01:01 GMT
SNIP
> ... a bunch of VERY obvious brightness transitions between the shots
> (even though I instructed the program to make automatic exposure
> corrections, and the fact the the shots were taken seconds apart,
> with no variation in exposure).
>
> Any ideas anyone?

Vignetting?

It's a guess because you didn't tell which lens was used and at which
aperture, and you didn't provide a link to an image that shows the
issue.

Bart
C J Southern - 27 Nov 2005 01:54 GMT
> Vignetting?
>
> It's a guess because you didn't tell which lens was used and at which
> aperture, and you didn't provide a link to an image that shows the issue.

I wouldn't have thought so - I had it yesterday on my 24-70 F2.8L / 20D
combo, and again today on my 70-200 f2.8L.

I don't have the facilities to put a sample up for review at this time.
Kyle Jones - 27 Nov 2005 01:08 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Any ideas anyone?

I occasionally forget and leave a polarizer on the lenses I used to
shoot outdoors... might you have done this?  That would change the
brightness of the sky as you rotated the camera.
C J Southern - 27 Nov 2005 01:51 GMT
> I occasionally forget and leave a polarizer on the lenses I used to shoot
> outdoors... might you have done this?

Thanks for the idea, but no - I'm only using a 3mm Heliopan UV filter
Rich - 27 Nov 2005 03:11 GMT
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Colin

Sounds like a pain in the a.s to use.  Try "Autostitch."  It's more or
less free and is very good at auto brightness matching and
reconforming any lens distortions.

http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html
Just plain Bill - 27 Nov 2005 04:32 GMT
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>Colin

Don't use auto exposure in the program because the difference of
brightness in subject data in the separate exposures may trigger a
different "correction" in them. If the shots were take seconds apart,
no correction should be needed.

Also, look at the individual frames and compare the brightness. If
they are different try making a gamma adjustment on each file and
again when stitching do not use auto correction.

JPB
sierra - 27 Nov 2005 08:34 GMT
The Canon G1, probably subsequent versions as well, had a panorama
setting - this took it's settings from the first exposure, and also
showed half the previous frame in the LCD to help lining-up. Always
worked very well - one thing I miss with DSLRs
Bart van der Wolf - 27 Nov 2005 21:20 GMT
> The Canon G1, probably subsequent versions as well, had a
> panorama setting - this took it's settings from the first
> exposure, and also showed half the previous frame in the
> LCD to help lining-up. Always worked very well - one thing
> I miss with DSLRs

Don't know if the G1 functions similar to the G3 (I know that one from
personal experience), but the pano mode fixes exposure on the first
image during the taking of the subsequent shots for that pano. That is
simple to do with any (DSLR) camera that has a full manual exposure
mode.

Bart
nick c - 27 Nov 2005 10:28 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> Colin

The stitching software that I use are Panorama Factory and Canon 360. I
haven't encountered the layers problems you have encountered. Both are
very good programs but the program that I like but don't have yet is
Ulead Cool 360. It's been my understanding that Panorama Factory is the
most popular photo stitcher on the market. Seeing what it can do, it
probably is the most popular. But I have tried Ulead Cool 360 and I
think it's a better program than Panorama Factory or Canon 360. What's
good about Canon 360 is it's the simplest and easiest to use and it's a
freebie. Being the simplest means it doesn't have many of the controls
the other programs have.

BTW,  don't process shots individually then do the stitching. Do the
stitching first then process the shot. Yesterday I stitched three wide
angle images of a beach scene using Canon 360. I can post the stitched
image but I can't see you learning anything from image that would help
in solving your problem. No Problems encountered in the stitching
process; total time maybe two minutes or less.
Richard Carlson - 27 Nov 2005 23:32 GMT
>> Hi all,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>>
>  If money isn't an issue try PTGui 5.5 and or Panorama Maker by Arcsoft or
Autostitch (free) or Panowizard (also free). I personally feel that PTGui
is the best out there and have made great improvments over the past year.
Panorama Maker by ArcSoft is also pretty darn good for quick accurate
stitches.

Richard
Donald Gray - 28 Nov 2005 11:31 GMT
>>  If money isn't an issue try PTGui 5.5 and or Panorama Maker by Arcsoft or
>Autostitch (free) or Panowizard (also free). I personally feel that PTGui
>is the best out there and have made great improvments over the past year.

Not tried them, can't comment...

>Panorama Maker by ArcSoft is also pretty darn good for quick accurate
>stitches.
I can confirm (and recommend) Panorama Maker - I does a great job.
Certainly matches up the tonal range between images to the point I
cannot define the stitching area, even though I know where it is!

See some of my panos:
www.websilk.co.uk/digital scroll down to bottom of page & click on the
thumbnail

They were all taken hand held and as such some of them exhibit a
curvature distortion from pointing camera down. (You try taking a pano
of the Grand Canyon from the rim and NOT point the camera down!)

[For the Kiwis & Ozzes: there some panos of Godzown!]
C J Southern - 27 Nov 2005 11:21 GMT
Thanks for your help everyone. I think "Just Plain Bill" hit the nail on the
head - I had the program set to automatically adjust exposure etc - when I
turned off a lot of the automatic stuff I instantly got perfect results.

Thinking about it, I guess the program is written to encompass all sorts of
images from all sorts of cameras - including P&S models that will suffer
from exposure / vignetting (etc) issues - it never occured to me until now
that many of these adjustments aren't needed with "L" glass, and still other
adjustments are better done in PS. So definately a case of "less is more" in
this circumstance.

I did download the PTGui demo and had a play - it too looks like a powerful
piece of software - however I came unstuck when it merged the images, but
then presented me with controls to set the horizontal and vertical angles
(?) and I got hopelessly lost from there (also crashed the program with a
divide by zero error with one of the horigontal control set to the extreme
left). I'm sure it's a simple case of reading the instructions - just
haven't had the time to invest in that get.

Thanks again for all your help.

Cheers,

Colin
 
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