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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / August 2005

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Lens Hood Questions

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Alan Wonsowski - 06 Aug 2005 12:14 GMT
I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
questions and provided me with very helpful information.

This fine camera and kit lens came with a lens hood. I've never used
one before. What are the advantages and disadvantages to using a hood
and under what conditions should I use it? What effect does it have on
the photograph?

Thanks,
Alan
David Littlewood - 06 Aug 2005 12:57 GMT
>I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
>questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>Thanks,
>Alan

Main purpose: to stop unwanted light from outside the area within your
photo falling on the front element of your lens. Such light will get
scattered around by reflection from glass/air surfaces and from internal
surfaces; it will lower contrast in the picture, and in serious cases
will cause bright blobs or shapes (often the shape of the lens
diaphragm, since that is one of the internal surfaces mainly
responsible). This phenomenon is known as flare; it used to be prevalent
on older lenses before current techniques of anti-reflective coating got
so good, but all lenses will suffer to some extent. A good hood will
block out extrinsic light and just allow the necessary field of view for
the lens, which is why lens manufacturers make different hoods to suit
different lenses. The best hoods (e.g. most of the Canon ones - which I
mention only because I know them well) fit by bayonet lugs on the
outside of the lens, allowing filters to be put on and taken off without
removing the hood or moving it further from the lens (which can cause
vignetting); they also are much quicker to put on and take off.

(One slight problem with normal hoods is that with zoom lenses they have
to be shaped to suit the widest end of the zoom range; this means they
are smaller than the optimum shape for the long end. This can be cured
by using some sophisticated bellows hoods, but that's probably going a
step or two further than you want to go, as they are a lot more fuss to
use.)

Secondary benefit: A decent hard plastic bayonet fitting hood of the
Canon type also add a considerable amount of protection from physical
damage. They are very robust and springy, and if you swing the lens
against a wall the hood will most probably prevent any damage. They also
make it a little harder to get fingerprints on the lens surface.

Personally, I never (well, hardly ever) use a lens without one - the
proper one for the lens. Doing this, and being a reasonably careful sort
of person, I do not feel the need to use a UV filter all the time as
lens protection.

David
Signature

David Littlewood

Conrad - 06 Aug 2005 14:02 GMT
Hi Alan and David,

Great reply David. One minor problem I ran into was at the short en
(18mm) getting a circular picture with part of the hood being in th
picture. No biggie - in fact - it can add some personality to pic.

Best,

Conra

--
Conrad
David Littlewood - 06 Aug 2005 14:49 GMT
>Hi Alan and David,
>
>Great reply David. One minor problem I ran into was at the short end
>(18mm) getting a circular picture with part of the hood being in the
>picture. No biggie - in fact - it can add some personality to pic.

Conrad,

This indicates that the hood is not suitable for the lens. Most hoods
specifically designed for a given wide angle lens or wide zoom have the
corners cut away (they are often called "petal" hoods, as they bear a
passing resemblance to flowers).

Although people vary in their acceptance of vignetting, to have it
happen as a matter of course, rather than choosing to use it
occasionally as a creative choice, is something most of us would I think
find unacceptable.

If you can't find, or can't afford, a matching hood, you may be able to
trim the corners out of the one you have. Take a look at the tailored
designs used by Canon and others and you will get the idea.

David
Signature

David Littlewood

DoN. Nichols - 07 Aug 2005 03:32 GMT
>>Hi Alan and David,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>corners cut away (they are often called "petal" hoods, as they bear a
>passing resemblance to flowers).

    [ ... ]

>If you can't find, or can't afford, a matching hood, you may be able to
>trim the corners out of the one you have. Take a look at the tailored
>designs used by Canon and others and you will get the idea.

    I think that the initial article in this thread mentioned the
Nikon D70 (or was it the D70s?) and the 18-70mm "kit" lens.  I've been
using one for a bit over a year, mostly with the "28-105mm f3.5-4.5 D"
lens, with the hood designed for it.

    However, I just got (last Monday) the normal "kit" lens, the
"AF-S 18-70mm f3.5-4.5 DX".  This was bought separately, so I don't know
whether a lens hood is supplied with the camera kit, or whether you
bought your own separately.

    The hood supplied with the lens is a "petal" style, and the
Nikon model number is HB-32.  It does bayonet on as described somewhere
else in this thread, and I can get no vignetting from the lens hood at
*any* focal length within its range.

    Note that it should be put on properly, which involves sliding
it onto the lens with the symbol:
          +----------
          |
          0

(the '0' above should be a solid dot) in line with the white dot at the
front top of the lens, and then rotated until the symbol:

       ----0

(this time the '0' is hollow) rotated until it is in line with the white
dot mentioned above.  You have to overcome some resistance to go from
the left-hand end of the "----" to the "0", and there will be a
noticeable "click" when it does.

    If I rotate the hood so it is not in that locked position, I do
see some vignetting, so that is what makes me think that you don't have
it locked properly (if you are indeed using the HB-32).

    Note also that you can store the hood on the lens by mounting it
backwards, in which case you need to interchange the two symbols from
start of installation to locked position.  This has the advantage that
the hood does not add to the length of the lens when it is in your
gadget bag.  My 28-105mm mentioned above also has a reversible hood, and
find it easy to use the lens with the hood stored in the reverse mode,
as it allows easy access to the zoom ring -- but not to the manual focus
ring.

    Unfortunately, the reversed hood on the 18-70mm blocks access
to the zoom ring, while still allowing access to the manual focus ring,
which is less often used than the zoom ring for most shots.

    You initially asked about when to use the hood, and I have
already seen good answers to that part of the question, but a secondary
one which you did not ask is when to *not* use it.  One example of when
not to use it is when using the built-in flash and the wider zoom
settings of the lens.  The hood casts a noticeable shadow on the bottom
center third of the image.  (IIRC, there is even some shadowing without
the hood at the 18mm setting.)  If you use the SB-600 or the SB-800
flash (even on the camera), you should not have this problem, though I
have not really tested this yet.

    So -- I store the hood on this lens (when on the camera) in the
normal position, to allow easy access to the zoom ring.  The new style
of Nikon lens cap supplied with the lens allows easy reach inside the
lens hood to remove or replace the lens cap.  The cap is tethered to the
lens with a short string attached to an elastic band around the lens,
and to the lens cap with a plastic button with double-stick foam tape.

    BTW -- I also recommend making a tether to go from the camera
strap mount to the plastic protective cover for the LCD display, as the
cover tends to hook on belts or other objects and get lost.  I lost my
first one precisely one year ago tomorrow, and made the tether as soon
as I got the replacement.

    Enjoy,
        DoN.
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Email:   <dnichols@d-and-d.com>   | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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Ed Ruf - 06 Aug 2005 15:22 GMT
>Great reply David. One minor problem I ran into was at the short end
>(18mm) getting a circular picture with part of the hood being in the
>picture. No biggie - in fact - it can add some personality to pic.

If used on the kit lens with the on camera flash you will also get a shadow
of the hood petal in the bottom of the image.
----------
Ed Ruf    Lifetime AMA# 344007 (Usenet@EdwardG.Ruf.com)
See images taken with my CP-990/5700 & D70 at
http://edwardgruf.com/Digital_Photography/General/index.html
Frank ess - 06 Aug 2005 18:26 GMT
> Hi Alan and David,
>
> Great reply David. One minor problem I ran into was at the short end
> (18mm) getting a circular picture with part of the hood being in the
> picture. No biggie - in fact - it can add some personality to pic.

Someone very close to me had a similar occurrence (Circular picture?
Nuh-uh; part of the hood ... Yup.), and it was cured by rotating the
"petal" hood to the correct orientation with regard to the shape of
the image frame.

Duh.

Signature

Frank ess

Hunt - 06 Aug 2005 22:29 GMT
>>I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
>>questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 43 lines]
>
>David

Well stated. One caveat to the OP, however, is that with the on-camera flash,
one can get a shadow, if the subject is close. I usually remove the hood if
I'm shooting "happy snaps" indoors, especially if using the 12-24 Nikkor zoom.

For both medium format, and large format shooting I use the bellows type hood
all of the time.

Hunt
David Littlewood - 07 Aug 2005 00:01 GMT
In article <dd3a4l22260@news3.newsguy.com>, Hunt <noone@hunt.com> writes

>Well stated. One caveat to the OP, however, is that with the on-camera flash,
>one can get a shadow, if the subject is close. I usually remove the hood if
>I'm shooting "happy snaps" indoors, especially if using the 12-24 Nikkor zoom.

Good point; I got caught out that way on my first expedition with the
10D; my previous main camera, a 1n, does not have such a built in flash,
so I was not used to the effect.

>For both medium format, and large format shooting I use the bellows type hood
>all of the time.

So do I, mostly - a Lee Filters version, in fact.

David
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David Littlewood

googlegroups2sucks - 08 Aug 2005 05:59 GMT
> >I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
> >questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> diaphragm, since that is one of the internal surfaces mainly
> responsible).

true enough.

why is it that photographers do all they can to reduce flare, while
computer effects people (e.g. industrial light and magic) seemingly
love to inject simulated lens flare into their work?

i think it's time for photographers to retaliate.  i urge all
photographers to simulate software glitches on photoshop, take pictures
of it, then email it to george lucas and call it "art".

This phenomenon is known as flare; it used to be prevalent
> on older lenses before current techniques of anti-reflective coating got
> so good, but all lenses will suffer to some extent. A good hood will
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> David
Alan Browne - 06 Aug 2005 15:12 GMT
> I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
> questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> and under what conditions should I use it? What effect does it have on
> the photograph?

I didn't bother reading David Littlewood's reply, but whatever he said
is likely right on the money.

Cheers,
Alan

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David Littlewood - 06 Aug 2005 15:26 GMT
>> I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
>> questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>Cheers,
>Alan

I think that was a compliment, Alan - I'll assume so! And no, I don't
think you'd learn anything you didn't already know.

David
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David Littlewood

Alan Browne - 06 Aug 2005 22:17 GMT
>>> I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
>>> questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>>
> I think that was a compliment, Alan - I'll assume so!

Of course.  Or rather an indication that nothing more need be said.

> And no, I don't
> think you'd learn anything you didn't already know.

I was considering replying, but with your name in the reply list it
would be redundant at best and likely I would have omitted something.

;-)

Cheers,
Alan
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Sheldon - 07 Aug 2005 01:17 GMT
>I finally purchased a Nikon D70s. My thanks to all who have endured my
> questions and provided me with very helpful information.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Thanks,
> Alan

1.  Prevents the sun and other lights from reflecting off the lens.  With an
SLR you will usually see it and can block it with your hand.
2.  Helps protect the lens by extending past it without blocking it.  I've
dropped cameras with lens hoods on them and the hood took up all the shock.

I normally keep a UV lens and lens shade on the camera at all times.  I know
there are many reasons not to do this, but it's cheap insurance against lens
damage.  Might be a good idea to remove it when shooting closeups with a
flash, but can't think of any reason not to use the lens shade all the time.
You'll get a lot of arguments about filters, as it's one more piece of glass
between the subject and the image sensor.
 
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