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Photo Forum / Digital Photography / DSLR Cameras / January 2005Sensor cleaning
Hi All, I am about to embark on cleaning my 20D sensor (got a few dust bunnies at f/22). I already made some posts about this on r.p.d (but not a specific question). My first plan of attack is to use the Rocket blower (which I ordered from B&H). My plan is to have my significant other hold a vacuum cleaner close (but not too close), while I use the rocket to shoot air on the sensor (hoping that the vacuum will suck up the disturbed dust). Has anyone tried this? Has anyone actually successfully cleaned their sensor without resorting to physical touching techniques?? Also, how long can I expect the camera to stay in the sensor cleaning mode when using a fresh battery? Thanks Musty. > My first plan of attack is to use the Rocket blower (which I ordered from > B&H). My plan is to have my significant other hold a vacuum cleaner close > (but not too close), while I use the rocket to shoot air on the sensor > (hoping that the vacuum will suck up the disturbed dust). The vacuum is overkill. I'd actually be afraid it would stir up more dust than it would eliminate. Don't bother. > Has anyone actually successfully cleaned their sensor without resorting > to physical touching techniques?? Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine. It takes care of all but major problems. I've even done it in the field once or twice, and it takes all of five seconds. I'm sure you'd never get compressed CO2 cartridges onto a commercial plane, though, but I prefer to drive anyway. Physical cleaning isn't as big a deal as it might seem. It's intimidating at first because of everything you've read and the knowledge that messing up the sensor would be Really Bad, but once you try it (with the right tools!) it's not especially difficult. > Also, how long can I expect the camera to stay in the sensor cleaning mode > when using a fresh battery? Long enough.  SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com > Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine. Do NOT use compressed air. >> Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine. > > Do NOT use compressed air. Of course not, but clean compressed CO2 is fine. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com > >> Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine. > > > > Do NOT use compressed air. > > Of course not, but clean compressed CO2 is fine. Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. I've never had a problem cleaning my sensor using a rubber bulb on either my D60 or 20D. I'd be wary of using any kind of compressed gas, air or CO2. Page 37 of the 20D manual clearly states "Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor." Ron Ron Lacey Murillo Ontario ron@ronsfotos.com > "Never use >canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray >gas can freeze on the sensor." That should read... Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force can damage the sensor or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor. ron Ron Lacey Murillo Ontario ron@ronsfotos.com > That should read... > > Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force > can damage the sensor or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor. Compressed air cans, and some other forms of blowers, have propellants and/or lubricants mixed in. Those are a problem. Since basically all of what you'll find if you look for "compressed air" will fall into that category, it's wise to tell people to avoid it. But since no one wants residue in their whipped cream or seltzer any more than you want it on your sensor, there's definitely a market for clean CO2. I doubt there is anything called "compressed air" that you can safely use, though. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >> That should read... >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >I doubt there is anything called "compressed air" that you can safely use, >though. I suspect the stuff I compress myself would be no worse than using a bulb blower; I've got a compressor+tank for use with various items. > >> That should read... > >> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > I suspect the stuff I compress myself would be no worse than using > a bulb blower; I've got a compressor+tank for use with various items. Im lucky in that I have a source for "dried" air.. The compressors where I work run the high temerature compressed air through a cooler (water jacket) then through an air dryer that removes moisture down to a VERY low humidity (in the area of 2% humidity). That way we dont have to go on a daily treck throughout our plant and drain the "water traps" on out air operated equipment, as they never have anything in them. Its a simple matter to construct a small air canister equiped with a Shraeder valve for filling, and an oulet for blowing out equipment. A simple air dryer can be made using a canister filled with the desicant found in those little "desicant packs" that come in your electronic equipment. That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4 quart size with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower compressor in my basement before the desicant needs to be dried (several hours in the oven @ 150 deg F) or replaced. In conclusion, if you are at all handy with tools, and have a small compressor you can make canisters of pure, dried air to use to clean things out. For my part, I went to the expense of putting a regulator on the outlet of my portable canister, so I can reduce the pressure down to 10 or 20 psi for cleaning delicate items. SignatureLarry Lynch Mystic, Ct. > That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware > store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4 > quart size with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower > compressor in my basement before the desicant needs to be dried > (several hours in the oven @ 150 deg F) or replaced. Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99% chance it's calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is very hydroscopic and will suck huge amounts of moisture from the air but has the major disadvantage of dissolving into a liquid when fully saturated. This is what makes it a great and cheap ice melt that is sold in 50# bags. I would hate to have calcium chloride, which is highly corrosive, running through my air lines and equipment. Unless you know you are buying "Silica Gel" I wouldn't use it. Also, silica gel won't dissolve in water. Rita Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification: Techincally it is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent. That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote: > > That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware > > store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4 [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Rita Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification: Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent. That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands (although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic gear. > > Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the > > hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99% [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic > gear. Actually I tend to use the same dessicant we use at work,(it looks like brownish purple sand, and never seems to break down or gel, probably a type of silica-gel. We change it out on a semi-anual basis) but I have used the "store bought" stuff a few times.. If you use "store bought", you need to keep it visible, so you can see its state. If it even begins to clump, get it out and dry it, or replace it. Silica gel is BEST but not always easy to come by. SignatureLarry Lynch Mystic, Ct. > Actually I tend to use the same dessicant we use at work,(it looks > like brownish purple sand, and never seems to break down or gel, > probably a type of silica-gel. We change it out on a semi-anual > basis) but I have used the "store bought" stuff a few times.. I know what you are talking about, but I can't think of which chemical that is. You might be using some form of molecular sieve as used in HVAC driers? > If you use "store bought", you need to keep it visible, so you can > see its state. If it even begins to clump, get it out and dry it, or > replace it. You can get silica gel with indicator beads mixed in. The beads are blue when dry and pink when wet. > Silica gel is BEST but not always easy to come by. You can get it at your local craft store for drying flowers in 1.5 to 2# cans for under $10.00. For reactivation, just bake in a 300* oven for several hours. Rita > You can get it at your local craft store for drying flowers in 1.5 to 2# > cans for under $10.00. For reactivation, just bake in a 300* oven for > several hours. > > Rita Usefull info, thanks for that. SignatureLarry Lynch Mystic, Ct. Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote: > > That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware > > store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4 [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Rita Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification: Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent. That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands (although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic gear. > Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification: > Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic > gear. Thank you very much for the correction, I'll make note of it for future reference. I do realize you were very excited and wanted to be the first person to correct me, but in your haste and bliss you posted three messages on the subject when only one would suffice. Thank you again. Rita Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote: > Thank you very much for the correction, I'll make note of it for future > reference. I do realize you were very excited Not excited at all, why would you assume that? > and wanted to be the first person to correct me, Huh? I could not care less. After a correction is made once, why would someone ever be second? Are there other corrections that I am missing? >but in your haste A little over seven hours is haste to you? >and bliss I do not understand the bliss part of that remark at all. I was merely trying to clarify a few points as politely as I could. I have no problems at all if anyone else approaches any of my posts in the manner that I approached yours. I am not very easily offended in RT let alone an arena such as this. >you posted three messages on the subject when only one would suffice. I only posted once. I do not know how the second post appeared and I could not delete it. I only see two. If I made an error in posting 3 times (as opposed to some sort of glitch for which I am not responsible) I would have apologized. I attempt to practice good manners always. Thank you again. > Rita I would say any time, but it seems to me that you do not like to be corrected so I will take that in consideration in the future. I apologize for having posted anything that would have caused you to reply in what appears to me to be a condescending manner. > I would say any time, but it seems to me that you do not like to be > corrected so I will take that in consideration in the future. I > apologize for having posted anything that would have caused you to > reply in what appears to me to be a condescending manner. Again, I do thank you for the corrections and I am much appreciative that you took the time to do so. My response wasn't an attempt to be condescending, as that wasn't my intention. At first glance, I thought it odd that one would have to point out another's mistake three times. If I mistakenly responded to you as one would when responding to the typical Usenet spelling and grammar police that wait in the wings ready to pounce, I offer my sincerest apologies. Rita No harm, no foul. It never happened ;o) > >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could > >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Murillo Ontario > ron@ronsfotos.com My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let the group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it worked for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way before? BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS autolevels so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the before and after. What is the best "free" website to post images? >My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let the >group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it worked >for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in >the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way before? Other than doing the cleaning indoors in my reasonably clean computer room I take no extraordinary precautions. Ron Ron Lacey Murillo Ontario ron@ronsfotos.com >> >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I >could [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] >for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in >the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way before? I'd suggest you get a large clean plastic bag and work in that... if it's big enough - crawl in too!! >BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS autolevels >so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the before >and after. What is the best "free" website to post images? alt.binaries.photos.original is good... > > >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I > could [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the before > and after. What is the best "free" website to post images? Tried the rocket bulb. It made no difference. At least it did not make matters worse. Looks like I'll have to use more intrusive techniques... > > > >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I > > could [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Tried the rocket bulb. It made no difference. At least it did not make > matters worse. Looks like I'll have to use more intrusive techniques... I need to re-state. I made a mistake. The problem is that I did not delete the "before" pictures off my CF (these were taken afew days ago). The pictures I took today after rocket bulb blowing show no dust bunnies!!! Hooray!! > I need to re-state. I made a mistake. The problem is that I did not delete > the "before" pictures off my CF (these were taken afew days ago). The > pictures I took today after rocket bulb blowing show no dust bunnies!!! > Hooray!! Excellent. I've found that blowing is all that is necessary almost all of the time. You only need to get in there and physically clean it if things get really bad. Thanks for the update on that particular product, too. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >I need to re-state. I made a mistake. The problem is that I did not delete >the "before" pictures off my CF (these were taken afew days ago). The >pictures I took today after rocket bulb blowing show no dust bunnies!!! >Hooray!! Glad to hear that, I was going to suggest you take it to a professional rather than take more drastic measures your self. After over three years of using DSLRs I've never met a dust bunny I couldn't conquer with the bulb<g>. Ron Ron Lacey Murillo Ontario ron@ronsfotos.com > Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could > not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. Here's one (long link, oh well): http://americanrecorder.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=10&osCsid=1db8b9fe648af073c2 e3bfa71fe9d48e What you really want, generically, are the kind of CO2 cartridges that are used in food preparation. They don't last very long and they aren't very strong (which for this purpose is actually a good thing) but they are clean. There's a "user review" on that page saying something like "some users have reported residue when used to clean camera sensors", but I've never had any problem with it and I blew a whole cartridge testing for that before I let it near my camera. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. Tetenal manufacture compressed CO2 kits, in the UK they're available from Calumet. Be warned though: I used one on a sensor once and it worked OK, but when I later used it on a filter it left a layer of what looked like frost behind, so I won't be risking it on sensors again, or lenses. Others have also reported residues with the Tetenal CO2. I've seen it suggested that you should hold the camera with the sensor facing down and aim the spray at the sides not directly onto the sensor, but I'm not sure I'd risk even that. In fact, I'd echo Bob Atkins' suggestion to "forget about the dust spots you'd never actually seen until you looked for them". :-) http://www.photo.net/equipment/digital/sensorcleaning/ SignatureHil >>Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could >>not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > >http://www.photo.net/equipment/digital/sensorcleaning/ I'd stay away from that junk and stick with something like Chemtronics micro-filtered compressed air. The thing to NEVER do is tilt the can when you use it. If you'd gotten that film on a first-surface mirror, that would be the end of it. -Rich > Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could > not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc. No link but it is compressed carbon dioxide bottles like you get from a soda stream kit. Used in most soft drinks and many of the soda water siphons. James go to techni-tool.com and purchase the 74 gram Tech Duster CO2, holder and nozzle. best thing in the world for cleaning sensors. Mike (Canon 1Ds) >> Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I >> could [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > James > go to techni-tool.com and purchase the 74 gram Tech Duster CO2, > holder and nozzle. best thing in the world for cleaning sensors. Mike [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >> >> James From Canon's FAQ (sensor cleaning) Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. Ken. Signaturehttp://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com >> go to techni-tool.com and purchase the 74 gram Tech Duster CO2, >> holder and nozzle. best thing in the world for cleaning sensors. Mike [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >From Canon's FAQ (sensor cleaning) >Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. Read on, read on. It's never a good idea to blindly pass on advice unless you understand the basis on which the advice is given. (pass this on to all your friends today!!!!) The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it is kept in thick-walled containers, not in thin-walled spray cans). >>> go to techni-tool.com and purchase the 74 gram Tech Duster CO2, >>> holder and nozzle. best thing in the world for cleaning sensors. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it > is kept in thick-walled containers, not in thin-walled spray cans). I can think of several ways using compressed air/gas can lead to damage or just more dust problems. 1. Thermal shock. Compressed gas becomes extremely cold when de-compressed. 2. Propelling ambient dust particles at high velocity at the sensor. 3. Moisture condensing on the sensor (see #1 above) and thereby 'cementing' any errant dust that is present onto the sensor. 4. Possible damage to shutter mechanism not designed to resist high pressure blast of air/gas. 5. Driving dust into other areas of the camera. If you think CO2 is the way to do it - go for it. As for me - no one is going to get close to my 10D with a can of compressed anything. Regards. Ken. Signaturehttp://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com > I can think of several ways using compressed air/gas can lead to damage or > just more dust problems. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > blast of air/gas. > 5. Driving dust into other areas of the camera. I dunno, my CO2 blower blows at room temperature, dry, with less force than if you were blowing with your mouth. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >>> go to techni-tool.com and purchase the 74 gram Tech Duster CO2, >>> holder and nozzle. best thing in the world for cleaning sensors. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it > is kept in thick-walled containers, not in thin-walled spray cans). I can think of several ways using compressed air/gas can lead to damage or just more dust problems. 1. Thermal shock. Compressed gas becomes extremely cold when de-compressed. 2. Propelling ambient dust particles at high velocity at the sensor. 3. Moisture condensing on the sensor (see #1 above) and thereby 'cementing' any errant dust that is present onto the sensor. 4. Possible damage to shutter mechanism not designed to resist high pressure blast of air/gas. 5. Driving dust into other areas of the camera. If you think CO2 is the way to do it - go for it. As for me - no one is going to get close to my 10D with a can of compressed anything. Regards. Ken. Signaturehttp://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com > The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain > liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it > is kept in thick-walled containers, not in thin-walled spray cans). Beyond the propellants, canned air can blow in with enough force to seriously damage the mechanical components (mirror/shutter) even if they are out of the way at the time. Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >> The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain >> liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >seriously damage the mechanical components (mirror/shutter) even if they >are out of the way at the time. That's a possibility. But the CO2 blowers under discussion don't seem to have very high volume, or really very much gas velocity. I'm considering dragging out my old Paasche airbrush, connected it to a large tank of room-temperature air at about 5-10lb/psi above atmospheric, and seeing how well that does. >>>The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain >>>liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > it to a large tank of room-temperature air at about 5-10lb/psi > above atmospheric, and seeing how well that does. We had CO2 cylinders in the lab for rapid cooling of electronics and they could output at very high velocity. Of course on leaving the nozzle the temperature of the gas dropped enormousely (-20 .. -40C) and that is not anything I would want near a camera at room temperature. Rather than blowing anything, better to use a small vaccuum device with a relieve valve. Better to suck things out than blow things in. Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >>>>The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain >>>>liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >We had CO2 cylinders in the lab for rapid cooling of electronics and >they could output at very high velocity. Apples and oranges. You're talking about industrial C02 tanks, holding several cubic feet of liquefied CO2. The devices being discussed here work off those little CO2 bulbs used for domestic soda syphons, etc. - maybe 1oz capacity, venting through a small needle hole in a lead cap. > The devices being > discussed here work off those little CO2 bulbs used for domestic > soda syphons, etc. - maybe 1oz capacity, venting through a small > needle hole in a lead cap. Those syphon capsules hold liquid CO2 too. Else their capacity, even under pressure, would be tiny. Mike. SignatureIf reply address = connectfee, add an r because it is free not fee. > Those syphon capsules hold liquid CO2 too. Else their capacity, even under > pressure, would be tiny. Their capacity *is* quite tiny. They don't last very long at all. Maybe 30 seconds of blowing. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com >> Those syphon capsules hold liquid CO2 too. Else their capacity, even under >> pressure, would be tiny. > >Their capacity *is* quite tiny. They don't last very long at all. Maybe >30 seconds of blowing. Note that orientation can determine whether you get liquid or gas. I have some dusters (now all empty, and were I got the refills no longer stocks them). They were made by Leland under the name "CO2 Power Clean". The cylinder has a threaded end, and screws into the valve head and nozzle assembly. (There are two sizes, with different thread diameters, and thus valve heads, for the different size cylinders.) Included in the label of each is: ====================================================================== Caution! -- Use only in upright up position. -- Keep away from children. -- Only use this cylinder with POWERCLEAN (TM) devices. ====================================================================== Now -- aside from the awkward wording of the first caution, I can testify that if you tilt it so the valve assembly is lower than the rest of the tank -- or even level with it, you *will*: 1) Get liquid CO2 at the output. 2) Freeze the rubber O-ring in the valve assembly so you will have no way to shut it off before the liquid CO2 completely boils away. But -- if used as directed, with the valve head above the cylinder, you get dry gas at at least a reasonable temperature for getting rid of dust. And -- the valve mechanism allows excellent control of the gas flow, from very low flow to displace a tiny dust particle to a serious blast, to get rid of the major accumulation of dust in a computer operated for several years in a house with cats. FWIW, I was able to find what I have been describing on the web. Here is a URL which points to a page offering both sizes. http://www.tallyns.com/Leland.htm I've never dealt with this company, and am not even sure where they are located, but they do illustrate what I am discussing, and they were easy to find with a Google search. (At least I now know one source of replacement cartridges. :-) Enjoy, DoN. SignatureEmail: <dnichols@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- >>>>>The warning agains canned air, etc. is because these often contain >>>>>liquid propellants. The compressed CO2 is just that (note that it [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > soda syphons, etc. - maybe 1oz capacity, venting through a small > needle hole in a lead cap. CO2 at that pressure is a liquid at room temperature. Spraying pressurized CO2 out of anything runs the risk of sending liquid CO2 out the nozzle. Ask anyone who plays paintball. HMc > Apples and oranges. You're talking about industrial C02 tanks, > holding several cubic feet of liquefied CO2. The devices being > discussed here work off those little CO2 bulbs used for domestic > soda syphons, etc. - maybe 1oz capacity, venting through a small > needle hole in a lead cap. Whatever. You dammage your camera in whatever way suits you. I'll use a vaccum and relief valve for dust, and homemade sensor wipes for the senor. Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. > I'll use a vaccum and relief valve for dust, > and homemade sensor wipes for the sensor. Please list the various stuff that I should acquire to ensure a TRULY safe and effective cleaning of the sensor. I have every expectation that the expenditure of $$ against this hobby will never cease. Fire away. :) JR >>I'll use a vaccum and relief valve for dust, >>and homemade sensor wipes for the sensor. > > Please list the various stuff that I should acquire to ensure a TRULY safe and > effective cleaning of the sensor. I have every expectation that the > expenditure of $$ against this hobby will never cease. Fire away. "TRULY safe"? Sit in your house and do nothing at all. Have others run erands for you. Eat a low calorie, moderate carb diet and exercise daily. etc. Google rpd. There are a variety of purchased and homemade 'wipe' remedies described or linked. One idea for a vacuum (Al Jacobsen IIRC) system was to take a large tupperware pot (say 8" x 12" by 8" deep. Cut a hole in the side, as high as possible, and connect to the vacuum. (You can probably find a good size fitting at the hardware store). Pierce holes in the cover making a grid of about 4" x 3" with 1/4 - 3/8" holes spaced 1/4" apart. Place the camera with the back open and facing you on the far side of the holes. Use a very soft small brush to loosen the dust up. It will mostly fall into the hole. Loose parts (!) if any (loose screws for example), should end up in the bottom of the tupperware pot rather than go down the vacuum. If the suction seems too high, just add more holes to relieve the pressure. Some household vacuum systems have a relief valve in the hendle, mine does. The vacuum hose might be better at the bottom of the arrangement so it won't tip over. In this case set up baffles such that any parts that might fall through can't end up in flow of air to the vacumm. (Or add a filter of some kind). Folowing needs fixed space setting in browser. camera here +-- - - - - ---+-----+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_____________________ _____| | _____________________ vacuum ->>> ^ +-----------------+--+ small tube For additional points, drill another small hole in the side of the box and add fairly rigid flexible tube (1/16" inside dia) of about 3' in length. Use this to reach in the camera to get at hard to get dust. Put a plate of plastic over the most of the holes in the top adjust it to adjust the flow through this tube. If you're worried about cost/time you should not be in this hobby. Cheers, Alan Signature-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin -- e-meil: there's no such thing as a FreeLunch. >> I'll use a vaccum and relief valve for dust, >> and homemade sensor wipes for the sensor. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > effective cleaning of the sensor. I have every expectation that the > expenditure of $$ against this hobby will never cease. Fire away. I would recommend a good bulb blower (one without brush) such as the Giotto Rocket. That will address most dust situations. In addition, I use a Sensor Brush (visibledust.com), and my Sensor Swipe and PecPads/Eclipse relegated to only the most persistent smudges (havent' used it since acquiring the Sensor Brush). HMc > Hi All, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Also, how long can I expect the camera to stay in the sensor cleaning mode > when using a fresh battery? two general notes: when changing lenses, or removing the lens, try to keep it upside down so dust falls out, not into the camera. if the lens comes off to change, the camera is powered off. i hear that the reason for the power off is that the charged sensor attracts dust. i did not believe that. voltages should be very low. however, since turning the power off for lens changes, my S2 has rarely had a dust problem. > Thanks > Musty. >> Hi All, >> [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] >> Thanks >> Musty. One thing I have not seen mentioned in this thread (I know someone will correct me if I missed it) is NEVER and I mean NEVER hit the sensor with any sort of compressed gas!!! The thermal shock this will present to the sensor is only to be imagined - not - horror of horrors - to be experienced. To hit a sensor with compressed carbon dioxide, for example, will deposit dry ice on its surface. Dry ice has a tempersture of -109.3 degrees F. (-78.5 C). Do not do this - ever! Compressed air presents the same (albeit milder) thermal shock risk. If the sensor survives the thermal shock it will most certainly experience the deposit of atmospheric water on its (cold) surface shortly threrafter - thus almost guaranteeing that any dust particles present will be semi-permanently glued to it. Just a heads up. Regards. Ken. Signaturehttp://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com > Dry ice has a tempersture of -109.3 degrees F. > (-78.5 C). http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/YongLiLiang.shtml "...the temperature in Vostok, Antarctica, dropped to nearly -89.2 °C, the lowest temperature ever recorded on Earth." "Although still unofficial, Vostok Station may have broken its own record for the coldest temperature on Earth. It has been reported that Vostok reached the temperature of -91 °C during the winter of 1997." Did carbon dioxide begin to precipitate out of the air? Tom Nelson Tom Nelson Photography >> Dry ice has a tempersture of -109.3 degrees F. >> (-78.5 C). Frozen CO_2 thaws at temperature, correct. > http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/YongLiLiang.shtml > "...the temperature in Vostok, Antarctica, dropped to nearly -89.2 °C, > the lowest temperature ever recorded on Earth." > "Although still unofficial, Vostok Station may have broken its own > record for the coldest temperature on Earth. It has been reported that > Vostok reached the temperature of -91 °C during the winter of 1997." Your URL confirms: | "Vostok station (Russian) NEW RECORD SET IN 1997!!! This is | an unconfirmed report from Vostok Station during the winter | of 1997. -91 °C (-132 °F) This is colder than Dry Ice! The | "official"record is also from Vostok station on July 21, 1983 | -89.2 °C (-128.6 °F)" > Did carbon dioxide begin to precipitate out of the air? Probably not, since: | This chilly weather is due to the exceptionally high speed of | the arctic winds. The katabatic or downward type winds that | bring the brisk temperature, travel with speeds up to 200 mph | (about 90 m/s) from inland toward the coast of the continent. this wind will remove any visible precipitation. Chances are that the wind is CO_2 poor anyway ... -Wolfgang > To hit a sensor with compressed carbon dioxide, for example, will deposit > dry ice on its surface. Dry ice has a tempersture of -109.3 degrees F. > (-78.5 C). > Do not do this - ever! The carbon dioxide that comes out of my blower is room temperature. SignatureJeremy | jeremy@exit109.com : i hear that the reason for the power off : is that the charged sensor attracts dust. Of course, that charged sensor is also behind a closed shutter, isn't it? -Charles SignatureCharles Robinson Minneapolis, MN charlesr@visi.com http://www.visi.com/~charlesr > : i hear that the reason for the power off > : is that the charged sensor attracts dust. > > Of course, that charged sensor is also behind a closed shutter, isn't it? Yes. it seems that i was wrong. is there a definitive explaination of dust and sensors? cleaning info is all around, but not the getting dirty mechanism. what are the shutters made of? if the shutter is electrically conductive, then it should block any effect of any charge behind it. if not conductive, then little effect. the electrostatic charge has to be very small, because there is no high voltage in the camera. I do not understand how the 'charge' could then have any more effect behind the shutter whether the camera is off or on when you change the lens. > -Charles > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > charlesr@visi.com > http://www.visi.com/~charlesr >is there a definitive explaination of dust and sensors? >cleaning info is all around, but not the getting dirty mechanism. Any dust that's gets in the body can end up on the sensor during an exposure, the flipping of the mirrow will stir up the air and the opening of the shutter curtains will let dust in. This isn't so much a problem with film slrs because you use a new frame of film for every shot but with a digital you use the same film (the sensor) over and over again. Ron Ron Lacey Murillo Ontario ron@ronsfotos.com |
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