Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
PhotoKB Home
Discussion Groups
Digital Photography
Digital PhotoDSLR CamerasZLR CamerasPoint & Shoot Cameras
Film Photography
35 mmLarge FormatMedium formatDarkroomFilm and LabsOther Equipment
Photo Technique
Nature PhotographyPeople PhotographyTechnique General
General Photo Topics
General TopicsAustralian PhotographyUK Photography
DirectoryPhoto Clubs

Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2010

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

The Curse of the Curl

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Anton - 16 Jan 2010 17:47 GMT
Hello, all

 I have at last got collected courage to digitize  some  of  my
 old films which were processed in cheap photolabs and probably
 dried in a hurry. I have been storing them in rolls  and  now,
 after cutting them into strips  I  have  been  struck  by  the
 extent of lateral curl. My scanner won't just  focus  on  such
 films,  unless  I  use  special  film  holder  which  is  less
 convenient and also crops the frame by about 2 mm in heght and
 width.

 Do you have any suggestions as to how to flatten and  old  and
 heavily curled film (meaning alteral curl, from edge to edge).

Thank you in advance,
Anton
Nicholas O. Lindan - 16 Jan 2010 18:31 GMT
You might try higher humidity.  It can take several days for
the film to flatten out.

The other approach is to weigh it down flat.  Put the film
strips between the pages of a book and stack more books on top.

The best solution, vis-à-vis r.p.d, is a glass carrier,
an enlarger and a wet darkroom and make prints ...

Signature

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

> old films which were processed in cheap photolabs
> ... storing them in rolls ... after cutting them into strips
> ... lateral curl ... [can't scan]
Anton - 16 Jan 2010 19:02 GMT
Thanks for the reply, Nicolas,

> You might try higher humidity. It can take  several  days  for
> the film to flatten out.

 Yes. Right now I am keeping it in a spiral container,  wherein
 the film remains laterally flat, in the bath with a hot shower
 on. I was going to keep it that way for a while (so it absorbs
 enough water) and then to start reducing the water flow,  step
 by step, to let the film dry slowly  and  uniformly,  until  I
 switch the water off. Then, hopefully,  it  will  be  properly
 dried and flat...

> The other approach is to weigh it  down  flat.  Put  the  film
> strips between the pages of a book and  stack  more  books  on
> top.

 Just keeping them flat doen't help in my case. When I take the
 films back they get curl again as if nothing  has  been  done.
 Some temperature and humidity  conditions  are  probably  also
 required. And can one keep a high  humidity  if  the  film  is
 squeezed between pages of a book?

 But I do keep all  my  recent  films  under  weight.  In  this
 regard, I got one more question: are transparent film sleevers
 suitable for long-term storage? Or do I need those  made  from
 acid-free papaer for that?

> The best solution, vis-?-vis r.p.d, is  a  glass  carrier,  an
> enlarger and a wet darkroom and make prints ...

 Yes, yes and yes. But I do want to scan them. And  the  colour
 process is way more difficult.

Anton
Anton Shepelev - 17 Jan 2010 09:58 GMT
>> You might try higher humidity. It can take  several  days  for
>> the film to flatten out.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>   switch the water off. Then, hopefully,  it  will  be  properly
>   dried and flat...

After drying up the curl returned ((
Will try keeping it in warm humid air for a longer time.

Anton
Michael - 17 Jan 2010 16:32 GMT
> Hello, all
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Thank you in advance,
> Anton

One thing that sometimes works is to rewind the film emulsion side out
and store it that way for a while. I know you are talking about edge to
edge curl but reverse winding will oppose that also and may apply more
torque over a longer time than other tricks, especially merely
flattening it out, which does not over curl it in the other direction.
Signature

Michael

Lew - 18 Jan 2010 13:39 GMT
If they are still in rolls, you can load them into your processing
reels and immerse them in room temp distilled water & hang the rolls
up to dry properly as you would films coming out of processing &
washing for the first time.
David Nebenzahl - 18 Jan 2010 19:00 GMT
On 1/18/2010 5:39 AM Lew spake thus:

> If they are still in rolls, you can load them into your processing
> reels and immerse them in room temp distilled water & hang the rolls
> up to dry properly as you would films coming out of processing &
> washing for the first time.

But even film that has been so hung and dried can have a curl. I just
developed a roll of FP-4 last week that had a distinctive lateral
(edge-to-edge) curl even after being hung up to dry with weights.

Signature

You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

Lew - 19 Jan 2010 14:37 GMT
> On 1/18/2010 5:39 AM Lew spake thus:
Yes, of course it can, especially if dried in a low humidity
environment. You can't totally eliminate curl since the emulsion
actually contracts as it dries whereas the support doesn't. There's
also the possibility that the support is actually curled, but some of
the list's greybeards will have to weigh in on this idea.

> > If they are still in rolls, you can load them into your processing
> > reels and immerse them in room temp distilled water & hang the rolls
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> - a Usenet "apology"
David Nebenzahl - 19 Jan 2010 20:20 GMT
On 1/19/2010 6:37 AM Lew spake thus:

> Yes, of course it can, especially if dried in a low humidity
> environment. You can't totally eliminate curl since the emulsion
> actually contracts as it dries whereas the support doesn't. There's
> also the possibility that the support is actually curled, but some of
> the list's greybeards will have to weigh in on this idea.

Well, your suggestion is moot in any case, since the OP has already cut
the film into strips.

D "gray beard but no expert" N

Signature

You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

Anton Shepelev - 20 Jan 2010 19:13 GMT
> Well, your suggestion is moot in any case, since the OP has already cut
> the film into strips.

I can treat my strips as full-fledged rolls, why not?
Anton Shepelev - 20 Jan 2010 19:25 GMT
Writing  just to inform you about my progress. I
loaded a strip into a  spiral  holder  (emulsion
side  out)  and  let it soak water for about ten
minutes. Then I poured some water on the  bottom
of  the container and put the spiral holder with
my strip into it, and sealed it. So it will  re-
main in a very moist environment for a day. Then
I will unseal it and wait  futher  for  film  to
dry.
David Nebenzahl - 21 Jan 2010 01:19 GMT
On 1/20/2010 11:25 AM Anton Shepelev spake thus:

> Writing just to inform you about my progress. I loaded a strip into a
> spiral holder (emulsion side out) and let it soak water for about ten
> minutes. Then I poured some water on the bottom of the container and
> put the spiral holder with my strip into it, and sealed it. So it
> will remain in a very moist environment for a day. Then I will
> unseal it and wait futher for film to dry.

One question: are you planning on drying the film *on the reel*? I
wonder if you don't risk having the film stick to the reel this way.

Signature

You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

Antonius - 21 Jan 2010 12:11 GMT
> > Writing just to inform you about my progress. I loaded a strip into a
> > spiral holder (emulsion side out) and let it soak water for about ten
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> One question: are you planning on drying the film *on the reel*? I
> wonder if you don't risk having the film stick to the reel this way.

I have a holder similar to this one:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3284/2857822614_c798f93847.jpg
Should stick to the film...

Anton
Antonius - 21 Jan 2010 12:13 GMT
> Should stick to the film...
Typo here. I meant the film should not stick to such a holder.
Antonius - 26 Jan 2010 21:04 GMT
> Writing  just to inform you about my progress. I
> loaded a strip into a  spiral  holder  (emulsion
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I will unseal it and wait  futher  for  film  to
> dry.

A follow-up:
This procedure has helped eleminate longitudial curl,
but not lateral curl (

I am going to follow Leo Trotsky's advice: "In order to
straighten a stick one should bend it in the oppposite
direction"

Anton
jay - 10 Feb 2010 21:17 GMT
> Hello, all
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> Thank you in advance,
> Anton

I swear that I've seen this problem addressed. IIRC the solution
involves glycerin .
I would also swear that I've seen possible solutions to this in,
perhaps,:
“The film Developing Cookbook” (1998) or“The Darkroom Cookbook” (2nd
ed.  2000)
I've looked through both & have not found a reference to this topic.
In the mid '60s I used a quick drying solution that turned the film
purple, but did not
have an adverse affect on the printing. I think that it, in addition
to quickly drying film,
it flattened film, & caused the film to be an anti-static. The name
that vaguely comes
to mind is Edwal.
I also vaguely remember that I used some sort of print flattener that
may have used  glycerin.
Perhaps it was a home brew.
I am fairly certain there is a chemical answer. However the side
affects may not be worth it.
Perhaps a really old publication like “Morgan & Morgan Photo Lab
Index” (IIRC) might be of value.
I wish I still had one.
I truly wish I could be of more help, JD
Richard Knoppow - 12 Feb 2010 15:59 GMT
On Jan 16, 9:47 am, Anton <anton.txt@g[oogle}mail.com>
wrote:
> Hello, all
>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Thank you in advance,
> Anton

I swear that I've seen this problem addressed. IIRC the
solution
involves glycerin .
I would also swear that I've seen possible solutions to this
in,
perhaps,:
“The film Developing Cookbook” (1998) or“The Darkroom
Cookbook” (2nd
ed.  2000)
I've looked through both & have not found a reference to
this topic.
In the mid '60s I used a quick drying solution that turned
the film
purple, but did not
have an adverse affect on the printing. I think that it, in
addition
to quickly drying film,
it flattened film, & caused the film to be an anti-static.
The name
that vaguely comes
to mind is Edwal.
I also vaguely remember that I used some sort of print
flattener that
may have used  glycerin.
Perhaps it was a home brew.
I am fairly certain there is a chemical answer. However the
side
affects may not be worth it.
Perhaps a really old publication like “Morgan & Morgan Photo
Lab
Index” (IIRC) might be of value.
I wish I still had one.
I truly wish I could be of more help, JD

     There was a sort of generic print flattener formula,
about 60 ml of glycerine per liter of water. Soak the prints
in this for about five minutes after washing. Then squeegee
off the excess and dry. Hydroscopic flatteners like this are
frowned on by conservators because they can promote the
growth of mold on prints. I've used various print flatteners
but not found any to be completely successful. I generally
flatten prints using a dry mounting press. Those seem to
stay flat permamently.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Anton Shepelev - 13 Mar 2010 16:57 GMT
On 2010-02-12 18:59:24 +0300, "Richard Knoppow"

>       There was a sort of generic print flattener formula,
> about 60 ml of glycerine per liter of water. Soak the prints
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> flatten prints using a dry mounting press. Those seem to
> stay flat permamently.

Richard,

I don't quite know what a mounting press is. Do you mean
you keep your films flat under a constant heavy pressure?
How strong is that pressure? What kind of sleeves/packaging
do you use for films stored this way?

Anton
Lawrence Akutagawa - 13 Mar 2010 19:02 GMT
> On 2010-02-12 18:59:24 +0300, "Richard Knoppow"
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> How strong is that pressure? What kind of sleeves/packaging
> do you use for films stored this way?

For what it's worth, what has worked for me well through the years is a
50-50 mix of denatured alcohol and water.  Take a damp cotton swab of this
mixture and swipe it across the back of the print.  Then place the print
face down under some moderate weight overnight - a couple of books will do.
In the morning, the prints are satisfactorily flat.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2010 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.