Hello,
I decided to start RA4 colour printing recently and although I am having
some success, I am having issues with colour balance between different
films. How on Earth do the professionals balance different film types? I am
using 1 brand of paper (which I intend to stick to!) I know I should stick
with just 1 brand of film, but alas I have used about 8 different types in
the past few months! I am using a colour analyser (Melico PM4), and have
made 'the perfect print' for calibration. Prints from the same film type are
fine, no issues... but is there any easy and quick way of getting other
films from other manufacturers to print without cast without need to
calibrate for every film type I ever use, or am I doomed to spend days
calibrating in the dark?
Many Thanks
Richard
Gregory Blank - 12 Feb 2007 03:18 GMT
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Richard
The fastest way initially is learn to evaluate color cast by sight. Make
small test strips and get the density accurate first, then adjust the
balance. Meters are a waste of time until you know how to recognize a
shift and the general direction need to go to correct. A good old set of
Kodak color print evaluation filters is what you need.

Signature
George W. Bush is the President Quayle we never had.
Ken Hart - 12 Feb 2007 04:13 GMT
>> Hello,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> shift and the general direction need to go to correct. A good old set of
> Kodak color print evaluation filters is what you need.
Mr Blank speaks the truth!
I have a color analyzer and don't use it. I've found that it is only good
for getting "close" to correct. (Although it does a good job for B&W
exposure!). You absolutely must get the density right (light/dark) first
before you can get out your viewing filters and adjust the color.
I like to cut a full sheet down (16x20 gives 8 test sheets) and pick the
most important part of the photo. I make three or four exposures on the test
sheet, run it thru the roller transport processor, then, if there is a strip
with good density, adjust the color.
I keep a Sharpie brand marker and mark the test print with the filters and
exposure. Sometimes, by the end of the night, things get a bit stressed and
it helps to write down what you're doing. My test print will be marked as
such: "40M 60Y f/8 :15--> 45M 60Y f/8 :18" This marking means that I am
going to add 5M and three seconds exposure.
Having a ring-around hanging on the wall is also helpful. I made my own, but
there is a ring-around in my Kodak Color Darkroom Dataguide from the 1970's.
As for the initial problem of prints from differnet films, I haven't noticed
a problem. I just make my test strip and go from there.

Signature
Ken Hart
kwhart@fullnet.com
darkroommike - 12 Feb 2007 22:18 GMT
If you can't shoot one type of film the next best thing is
to shoot one "family" Kodak Pro, Fuji Sensia, or whatever or
just one brand.
I think you've also discovered that some analyzers are
worthless for switching from brand to brand. Better
practice is to make your best great print and then make a
contact sheet of the rest of the roll using the same
settings, then make contact sheets of the rest of your
negatives. It might be instructive to pick a type of film
to use for your master and shoot a whole roll of one subject
and include a one frame clip from your master roll on each
contact sheet. Then just make your color corrections using
a Mk. I eyeball and a set of Kodak color print viewing
filters. You'll learn a lot about color correction in a
hurry (and why most columnists advise you shoot only one
type of film).
darkroommike
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> Richard