Using enlarger to make positive prints from negative pinhole camera images

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James Keller - 05 Feb 2007 23:17 GMT

If I have negative black and white images on full-size photo paper
(the paper was used in a pinhole camera, so processing produces a
negative image), how can I use the enlarger to make a copy of the
print that will be a positive?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Nicholas O. Lindan - 06 Feb 2007 01:43 GMT

"James Keller" <jdkeller@gmail.com> wrote

> [paper negatives in an enlarger?]

I did this when I was young: it worked, it took
a long time and results weren't anywhere near as
good as they are with pinhole negatives.

Put the paper where the negative would go, emulsion
side towards the lens.

I'd leave the enlarger lens wide open - it being
a pinhole negative there isn't that much sharpness
to worry about.

Variable contrast paper with no filter is probably the
fastest paper around.

Stray light coming out of the enlarger will have more
effect than normal. If light comes out around the lamp
house drape some cloth to block it. Obviously, don't
block ventilation holes but do something with them if
they leak light. This may have been the reason for the
low contrast results I obtained when I did it.

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Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Darkroom Automation: F-Stop Timers, Enlarging Meters
http://www.nolindan.com/da/index.htm
n o lindan at ix dot netcom dot com

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tintmobile@mail.com - 06 Feb 2007 02:47 GMT

> If I have negative black and white images on full-size photo paper
> (the paper was used in a pinhole camera, so processing produces a
> negative image), how can I use the enlarger to make a copy of the
> print that will be a positive?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.

First place a sheet of photo paper in your easel with emulsion side
facing up. Now place your negative on top of the first sheet with
emulsion side facing down. Open up your enlarger lens to f8 then turn
it on for about five seconds (for starters) then process normally.

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David Nebenzahl - 12 Feb 2007 00:14 GMT

tintmobile@mail.com spake thus:

>> If I have negative black and white images on full-size photo paper
>>(the paper was used in a pinhole camera, so processing produces a
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> emulsion side facing down. Open up your enlarger lens to f8 then turn
> it on for about five seconds (for starters) then process normally.

You forgot one thing: a sheet of glass on top will keep the negative in
contact with the paper. (That's why most folks opt to use some kind of
contact frame. A simple homemade one will work just fine.)

Also, you don't need an enlarger: a small light bulb will do the trick.

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darkroommike - 06 Feb 2007 04:06 GMT

I can think of one option that hasn't been mentioned yet.
Rephotograph the negative image onto another piece of paper.
Using you enlarger as a copy camera or make a pinhole copy
camera!

darkroommike

James Keller wrote:

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footermatt@gmail.com - 08 Feb 2007 07:18 GMT

James Keller has the right idea. You're merely using a paper negative
to make a contact print, a tried and true historical technique.
You'll get better image quality if you use a contact print frame or a
piece of glass in place of the easal. Just proceed as JK states,
unexposed paper emulsion side up on enlarger base, paper negative
emulsion side down, glass on top to keep the "negative" in close
contact with the paper and then make a 5 second test strip. Adjusting
contrast with VC paper might be more difficult than usual but it
should work--at least a bit. Lowering contrast using the water bath
technique and increasing it with spiked developer will work if you're
so inclined. Of course you don't need an enlarger for this sort of
stuff, any number of light sources that aren't diffuse will work quite
well for this type of contact print making. The sun is an excellent
light source that works wonders using this technique with 'printing
out' papers.

Matt

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David Nebenzahl - 08 Feb 2007 08:07 GMT

footermatt@gmail.com spake thus regarding today's topic, contact printing:

> Of course you don't need an enlarger for this sort of stuff, any
> number of light sources that aren't diffuse will work quite well for
> this type of contact print making.

I use a small (~7 watt) night-light bulb suspended about 4 feet over the
contact frame.

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