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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / June 2006Kodabrome III RC
I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's graded paper, I've only used RC and I'm having trouble finding out the difference. I think F3 is for low-contrast negatives, so would this be good for printing from color negatives? Thanks, Jeff >I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse >they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >Thanks, >Jeff Kodabrome III RC ? Never knew they made one. Kodabrome II RC was made well into the late 90's. In any case you can use any standard/universal paper developer such as Ilford PQ Universal. The "F" is the surface, glossy in this case, and the 3 is the grade. It should work well with slightly softer than normal negatives though this really depends more on light source. Condenser vs. diffusion. The great thing about graded RC's is that they worked really well with the co-called "cold light" heads such as those using Aristo light sources. Ilford's version is called Ilfospeed RC Deluxe and is available in glossy, semi-matt and pearl surfaces. Given that Kodak has given little thought to abandoning the artistic photographer community, I prefer to use Ilford products whenever possible. == John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster www.legacy-photo,com www.xs750.net Well, I couldn't pass up 300 pre-cut 5x7" for $2.00 (plus $7) shipping. I'll see how they work out. > >I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse > >they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > www.legacy-photo,com > www.xs750.net > I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with this, ofcourse > they list Kodak developers , but could I use Arista, etc? Also, it's [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks, > Jeff F3 (especially if an older batch) should work fine for most color negatives, scenes shot on contrastier films or with high contrast ligting would be better with a F2 paper but try it and see, you might also be able to pre-flash your paper to lower the contrast a bit. And standard paper developer will be fine but I have a Kodak Royal Print processor I'll give you (you'll just need to find a source for the chemicals!). LOL On Thu, 29 Jun 2006 10:20:46 -0500, darkroommike <darkroommike@cableone.net> wrote: >I have a Kodak Royal Print >processor I'll give you (you'll just need to find a source for the >chemicals!). LOL June 30, 2006, from Lloyd Erlick, This may be more practical than it seems. I'm pretty sure I remember that the first chemical was an activator, so basically (haw) a solution of carbonate or hydroxide or something should work. And if one wants to work under safelight, the second chemical (stabilizer) can be omitted and the prints fixed as normal prints. Fixing instead of stabilizing results in much longer lasting prints. Most RC materials are developer-incorporated (DI), so they work in an activation system. I think if anyone is going to invest in such a free machine they should research the things I've said; I don't want to be responsible for making good on the purchase price...! regards, --le ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. website: www.heylloyd.com telephone: 416-686-0326 email: portrait@heylloyd.com ________________________________ >I was wondering what kind of developer I could use with >this, ofcourse [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Thanks, > Jeff The problem with printing from color negatives is that both graded and variable contrast paper are sensitive to a rather narrow spectrum of blue (graded) or blue and some green (VC). In addition, the contrast of VC paper varies with the color. You can make a test print with either to find out what is on the negative but the tone rendition will be seriously distorted. In the past Kodak and others made panchromatic paper especially for printing color negatives, but AFAIK, none is on the market now. Kodabrome is a graded paper and has very little response beyond blue. I've tried VC papers, including all the "magic" filter combinations, but can not get better than rather poor prints from color negatives. OTOH, when panchromatic paper was available I got beutiful prints from it. I think those who want B&W from color negative are just stuck:-(  Signature--- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@ix.netcom.com |
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