The ring has the threads that hold the lens in place. Just reach into
the negative area, hold the ring in place and screw the 75mm lens in
place. Do the same with the 50mm.
Jean-David Beyer - 07 May 2006 04:36 GMT
> The ring has the threads that hold the lens in place. Just reach into
> the negative area, hold the ring in place and screw the 75mm lens in
> place. Do the same with the 50mm.
If it is a standard Beselar lens board, the ring is not part of the lens
board and if you turn it upside down, it should fall into your hand or onto
the table.

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I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
Floyd L. Davidson - 07 May 2006 06:46 GMT
>I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
>thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
>real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
I can't remember now just exactly how the Besler 23 lense board
works (haven't used one for 20 years), but generally the way
people deal with changing lenses is to have each lense
permanently mounted on a different board. The entire board +
lense is swapped.
Yes, there is a significant difference between 75mm and 50mm
lenses. But first, which lenses do you have? And what size
negatives are you going to work with?

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Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com
Scott Schuckert - 07 May 2006 13:49 GMT
> I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
> thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
> real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
Argh. You shouldn't have to take out any screws to remove the
lensboard. It's spring loaded; you angle it in against the rear spring,
and press until the front edge will fit past the lip and stay in place.
I hope you get it all put back together...
Francis A. Miniter - 07 May 2006 15:07 GMT
> I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
> thread while I screwed the lens in.
How to make a simple task difficult and destroy your new enlarger all in one
easy step. Follow Scott's comment. Do not disassemble the enlarger
unnecessarily. Mosts tools are designed for easy operation. If you do not find
the easy way, keep looking.
Thanks for the help. Is there any
> real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
25 mm. Seriously, the lenses are sized to the negatives they are intended to
develop. (By the way, notice that the top rack and pinion bellows control has
markings for the locations that you should stop at for negatives from 35 mm to 2
1/4 x 3 1/4 inches. You have to adjust this for each lens that you use.) A 35
mm negative is 24 mm x 36 mm and the diagonal distance is about 43.5 mm. So a
50 mm lens is large enough with a little extra to "cover" the diameter of the
negative when projected. A 75 mm lens is about appropriate on the same basis
for a 2 1/4" x 2 1/4" negative, which is about 56 mm to a side. (SQRT [56^2 +
56^2] = 79 mm.) In fact, some people prefer a slightly larger lengs for the
job. I often use a 90 mm lens for a negative this size. To complete the
analysis for the lenses available for the Beseler 23C, (1) a 90 mm lens is
required for a 6 x 7 negative (nominally 60 mm x 70 mm or 2 1/4" x 2 3/4"), the
negative is about 56 mm x 65 mm, yielding a diagonal of 86 mm; (2) a 105 mm lens
is required for a 6 x 9 (aka 2 1/4" x 3 1/4") negative, with a diagonal of 102
mm (SQRT [56^2 + 85^2].
Francis A. Miniter
PATRICK GAINER - 07 May 2006 20:24 GMT
>I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
>thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
>real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
>
>
Lenses for most enlargers use the standard Leica thread on the mounting
flange. Of course, Leica don't use it on their cameras anymore. As
others have said, the lensboard for the Beseler can be as simple as a
piece of 1/8 " plywood with a 40 mm hole cut in the middle if you have
the retaining ring. I used to get 1/8" plywood at hobby shops.
Nicholas O. Lindan - 07 May 2006 21:54 GMT
> [A] lensboard for the Beseler can be as simple as a piece of 1/8 " plywood
> with a 40 mm hole cut in the middle
I made several by laminating cardboard from the back of legal
pads with contact cement.
Flat Omega lensboards can be made from scrap printed circuit
board material with something to give thickness for mounting the
lens/flange.
> if you have the retaining ring.
I make the hole in each sheet of cardboard as a hexagon before
laminating. The cutouts are slightly undersize and 'rotated'
from each other. Screw the lens straight into the cardboard.
For blacking cardboard/foam core/AOS* I use Black Kiwi
"Edge Dressing" [for putting a nice black finish on the edge
of the sole of one's Lobb's] it dries water insoluble
and will even stick to polyethylene.
I paint the cardboard with varnish/shellac if I want to
make the lensboard semi-permanent.
I have made temporary lensboards for Sinars, Graphics and
Centuries this way. Sometimes a bit of electrical tape is
needed for a good light seal if used on a camera.
Temporary lensboards are neat for fooling around: reversed
enlarging lenses for macro work with an 8x10; pin-holes;
home-made 'portrait lenses' made from one or two close-up
lenses and an orange juice can; anamorphic slit pinholes;
pinhole and close-up lens combinations...
--
* AOS: Technical term for material specification: Any Old ----.
David Nebenzahl - 07 May 2006 23:43 GMT
PATRICK GAINER spake thus:
>> I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
>> thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> piece of 1/8 " plywood with a 40 mm hole cut in the middle if you have
> the retaining ring. I used to get 1/8" plywood at hobby shops.
1/8" masonite is much easier to obtain anywhere in the "civilized" world
and works just as well.

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BertS - 30 May 2006 20:09 GMT
> I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
> thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
> real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
25 mm?
Mike King - 01 Jun 2006 13:13 GMT
MOST 50mm lenses are intended for 35mm (24x36mm) and will give greater
magnification for a given enlarger height than a 75mm lens.
MOST 75mm lenses are intended for 6x6 negatives (60x60mm) and will give less
magnification for any given enlarger height, usually not an issue since you
are using a larger negative.

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darkroommike
> > I had to take off the lens board and undo all the screws and hold the
> > thread while I screwed the lens in. Thanks for the help. Is there any
> > real difference between the 75mm and the 50mm?
>
> 25 mm?
>I just got a second hand enlarger, and I noticed it came with a 75mm
>lens, I unscrewed the 50mm one that was loose to begin with (Too loose
>to adjust the aperture) and now the 75mm won't screw in. There is a
>metal ring in the (?) lens board (?) and it's loose. Nothing snapped,
>cracked broke etc. I don't know what to do.
Hmmm... Others answered your questions, so I'll *ask* a couple to
start some conversation that might be educational!
What film size are you planning on doing? The 50mm lense is for
35mm negative. The 75mm lense is for larger negatives, and will
only make small prints when used for a 35mm negative.
But the real question is just exactly what are your two lenses?
(The original lense supplied by Besler was, ahem... *horrible*.)
The good news is that really top quality enlarging lenses are
selling used today for peanuts. Hence if you have a poor lense
or for that matter even a half decent one, it is easy to pick up
a very good one.

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Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com
>I just got a second hand enlarger, and I noticed it came with a 75mm
>lens, I unscrewed the 50mm one that was loose to begin with (Too loose
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>AIM: jephey
>MSN: juniormintz@msn.com
Might find this helpful in the future :
http://www.legacy-photo.com/pdf/equipment/enlargers/beseler/bes_23c2xl.pdf
==
John S. Douglas
Photographer & Webmaster
www.legacy-photo,com
www.xs750.net