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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2006

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Jobo ATL-2300 chemical pumping error

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Baxter - 23 Mar 2006 16:01 GMT
I have recently acquired and plumbed in the ATL-2300 and am getting an
intermittent error, occasionally a this doesn't occur, but more often
than not at least one of the 3 baths of E6 chemicals are not pumped
across into the drum. I am using the front bank of tanks and tanks 1-3.

The machine makes a bleeping sound, by pressing "Start" it then pumps
the chemicals across with no difficulty whatsoever. This problem is
causing streaking on some sheets of film (mostly doing 5x4 E6) and
clearly isn't operating as an Auto machine as I have to be on standby
to go and press the button!

I have checked seals on lids of chemical bottles, smeared thick
Silicone grease around the top of the o-rings on the bottle, replaced
the red seal on each of the tank lids, but still the problem recurs.

FWIW I have tried Autofill options and where I set the chemical volume
manually. This seems to have no effect on the problem.

Those that have experience of these machines please could you advise on
what I should be checking to rectify the problem?

Prior to this I have been using an ATL-1000 which has been fine with
the tanks I am using now.
Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 16:12 GMT
> I have checked seals on lids of chemical bottles, smeared thick
> Silicone grease around the top of the o-rings on the bottle, replaced
> the red seal on each of the tank lids, but still the problem recurs.

This could be a problem with the electronics, the air pump, or the air
distributor that switches the air supply over to the next bottle.

If the problem occurs, do you still hear the pump running? If there is
silence at the moment when you should be hearing the usual purring of
the pump, I'd check the relay that controls it.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
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Baxter - 23 Mar 2006 19:12 GMT
Thankyou Ralf

I haven't used the machine for 10 days since I have been so cross and
frustrated! I seem to remember that a very small bit of fluid is pumped
(hence streaking where this has splashed onto film and given more
development), it gives up the ghost and so pressing the start button to
override relay then gets the rest across.

The frustrating thing is that it hardly ever seems to happen when using
water in the chemical bottles to fault-find and with no film in the
tank. Lulling me into a false sense of security, it then recurs once I
am using E6 chemicals and film......

The fact that it is intermittent would indicate electrical fault of
some sort wouldn't it? If so and being unfamiliar with these Jobo
machines, where is the relay situated? I have found, but not yet
checked the other items. Will endeavour to do this later tonight.
Greg - 24 Mar 2006 01:09 GMT
> Thankyou Ralf
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> machines, where is the relay situated? I have found, but not yet
> checked the other items. Will endeavour to do this later tonight.

Do you have the Atl manual? The reason I ask its probably available
online as a PDF.
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Ralf R. Radermacher - 24 Mar 2006 01:15 GMT
> Do you have the Atl manual?

Yes I do. Plus a disk directory with the complete service documentation
downloaded from JOBO USA.

Ralf

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Greg - 24 Mar 2006 01:39 GMT
> > Do you have the Atl manual?
>
> Yes I do. Plus a disk directory with the complete service documentation
> downloaded from JOBO USA.
>
> Ralf

I thought I was asking Baxter.....
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Ralf R. Radermacher - 24 Mar 2006 01:40 GMT
> I thought I was asking Baxter.....

Reminds me of my grandmother: "You better let the horses do the
thinking. They have bigger heads!"

:-)

Ralf

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Baxter - 24 Mar 2006 06:18 GMT
Thanks Greg and Ralf

Been night time here in the UK, it is now 0515...

Yes I do have the original ATL-2300 manual and also the more up-to-date
pdf from the JOBO website. However no mention is made of techinical
faults such as this, only about the effect of processing on the
different film types.
Baxter - 24 Mar 2006 06:20 GMT
Once I have the machine in pieces, I shall now centre my investigation
upon the IC sockets and the sensor wire. Although if it is the latter,
I haven't any idea what i might find or how to rectify. Shall cross
this bridge when I get to it!

Baxter
Nicholas O. Lindan - 23 Mar 2006 19:11 GMT
> least one of the 3 baths of E6 chemicals are not pumped
> across into the drum

Is it always the same one?

> The machine makes a bleeping sound, by pressing "Start" it then pumps
> the chemicals across with no difficulty whatsoever.

I take it the sequence is:

o Start processing

o Processes normally until -

o Time for chemical #n and then the Jobo beeps

o Press "Start" and the Jobo completes the processing

Is this correct?

Does the Jobo have level sensors to detect if it is out of
a chemical?

I confess I do not have an ATL, but I have designed quite
a few automatic blood chemistry analyzers.  There is a lot
of overlap between clinical chemistry and photography.

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Baxter - 23 Mar 2006 19:25 GMT
Thanks Nicholas

The bottle number on which the fault occurs varies, sometimes just a
single one (1, 2 or 3) and sometimes any two, or occasionally all 3 -
or even none!

It only beeps having correctly moved to the next stage and when trying
to pump that particular bottle. Pressing the 'Start" button then
activates the pumping process correctly.

There aren't level sensors in the bottles. You program the amount of
fluid and it performs a simple subtraction process to determine if
future runs are possible. I fill with the correct amount of fluid for
each run. I have tried altering fluid volume from 1000ml and 700ml.
Also by trying using Autofill and "Chemical volume to pump" I have
established that it ought not to be a logic fault in this part of the
processor.

Baxter
Nicholas O. Lindan - 23 Mar 2006 19:39 GMT
> The bottle number on which the fault occurs varies, sometimes just a
> single one (1, 2 or 3) and sometimes any two, or occasionally all 3 -
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> I seem to remember that a very small bit of fluid is pumped

Whatever is malfunctioning should be something that is common to all
three chemicals.

It sounds to me like the Jobo starts the action, detects something
has gone wrong, and beeps for help.  Pushing the start button tells
it to try again and this time things go OK.

Before the Jobo malfunctions can you hear the pump running for
second or two to pump 'the very small bit of fluid'?  Or is this
a spurt of the previous chemical that may be dispensed by the valves
actuating.

Is the fluid selection valve a rotary valve or are there valves
for each fluid?

Is there a sensor to detect fluid going through the pump/tubing?

Do you get air bubbles in the tubing?

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Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
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Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 19:58 GMT
> Whatever is malfunctioning should be something that is common to all
> three chemicals.

I suspect the pump or the electronics/relay controlling it. I've had
trouble with control signals in my ATL's caused by the IC sockets.
They've used the cheap spring type sockets instead of the better ones
with the round holes. These buggers cause the same kind of problems that
haunted my Amiga computers from the same era.

Speaking of Commodore, early JOBO ATL's use the 6502 of Commodore PET
fame.

> It sounds to me like the Jobo starts the action, detects something
> has gone wrong, and beeps for help.  Pushing the start button tells
> it to try again and this time things go OK.

Exactly.

> Is the fluid selection valve a rotary valve or are there valves
> for each fluid?

It is a rotary device.

> Is there a sensor to detect fluid going through the pump/tubing?

See my other message.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 20:06 GMT
Siilly old me <fotoralf@gmx.de> wrote:

> I suspect the pump or the electronics/relay controlling it. I've had
> trouble with control signals in my ATL's caused by the IC sockets.
> They've used the cheap spring type sockets instead of the better ones
> with the round holes.

I should have mentioned that pushing all IC's firmly down in their
sockets sometimes helps, albeit only as a temporary measure.

For a permanent fix, I used to solder decent sockets right on to the old
ones. Unsoldering the old sockets requires a lot of skill and the right
tools or you'll do unrepairable damage to the PC board.

Ralf

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manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
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Baxter - 23 Mar 2006 20:23 GMT
Thanks Nicholas and Ralf

That will keep me busy - until Christmas!

Will get cracking once I have the children in bed.

I am very glad I found this forum, I have had no luck when posting
tales of these woes elsewhere.

Baxter
Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 21:02 GMT
> I am very glad I found this forum, I have had no luck when posting
> tales of these woes elsewhere.

Oh, thanks. We old buggers are always happy if someone tells us that we
can still be of some use. ;-)

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Baxter - 23 Mar 2006 22:16 GMT
Well I have been a bit daunted by the complexity of the machine, so
have decided to print out the helpful procedures at the Jobo USA
website so that I might minimise self-inflicted damage through
dissembly.

All ICs seemed to be seated correctly and not any obvious damage to
pipes/connections. Haven't found the wire sensor yet.

The other fact that I forgot to post, but on reflection would seem to
be relevant is that when performing a cleaning routine, the fault has
never occurred i.e. the bottles are emptied completely irrespective of
the volume of water I have put in.

Baxter
Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 22:54 GMT
> The other fact that I forgot to post, but on reflection would seem to
> be relevant is that when performing a cleaning routine, the fault has
> never occurred i.e. the bottles are emptied completely irrespective of
> the volume of water I have put in.

Ha! Here we are!

During the cleaning routine, the flow detection is disabled.

Here's what happens: the pump begins to work, a little liquid is pumped
while the detection time window lasts, then the program is interrupted
because the machine thinks there's no liquid.

No while you run  to push the start button again, the little soup that
there is plays havoc with your film.

So, its either the sensor wire or, just as likely, an IC contact on the
control board.

Things should be a lot easier now.

Ralf

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manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
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Greg - 24 Mar 2006 00:23 GMT
> > The other fact that I forgot to post, but on reflection would seem to
> > be relevant is that when performing a cleaning routine, the fault has
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> Ralf

Some interesting images Ralf where are these taken?

http://www.fotoralf.de/Bilder/Mallorca/htm/0130812.htm
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Ralf R. Radermacher - 24 Mar 2006 00:42 GMT
> Some interesting images Ralf where are these taken?
>
> http://www.fotoralf.de/Bilder/Mallorca/htm/0130812.htm

All over the island. The one linked above on the way from Arta to
Betlem.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Ken Hart - 24 Mar 2006 07:27 GMT
> I should have mentioned that pushing all IC's firmly down in their
> sockets sometimes helps, albeit only as a temporary measure.
>
> For a permanent fix, I used to solder decent sockets right on to the old
> ones. Unsoldering the old sockets requires a lot of skill and the right
> tools or you'll do unrepairable damage to the PC board.

Couple things to help un-solder IC sockets:
1. make sure you have sufficient heat. When I do an electronics project, I
usually have two or three solder sticks heating, and I alternate between
them.
2. Get the major amount of solder out with a solder sucker-- not the
squeeze-bulb type, but the spring-loaded plunger type ("Solder-pult"?)
3. Get the rest of the solder out with solder wick.
4. Use a small screwdriver (Xcelite brand "greenie"!) to pry the socket from
one end while you heat the pins at that end.
But still, "Unsoldering the old sockets requires a lot of skill and the
right tools or you'll do unrepairable damage to the PC board."
Good luck!

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Ken Hart
kwhart@aec.nu

Baxter - 27 Mar 2006 22:47 GMT
Today I have been working on the processor. I stripped it down so that
I could access the ICs and check that they were all correctly seated.
All seemed to be firmly in their holders and no signs of damage to the
circuit boards.

I also removed the top cover so that the flow sensor could be checked.
There were no obvious errors here. I tightened up the top snesor with
the white wire and by shining a torch from below was able to see that
the wire was free of corrosion/debris. The 3 pronged lower sensor with
the 2 blue wires proved more problematic. I couldn't see a way to get
in to check if the wire was corroded. There was a small amount of
scaling on the outside, but I have no idea what the situation is within
the black plastic moulding.

After reassembly I ran with water in front tanks 1,2 and 3. Once at
correct temp, the problem recurred with bottle 1.

The air pump activated for 1-2s, it sounded like some fluid was
transferred, then the error alarm activated. I pressed "start" to clear
the error, the pump activated once more and the bottle was emptied.

The rinses were fine, then repeat of error on bottles 2 and 3. Again
cleared by pressing "start".

I didn't cry "Full House", ............ but did nearly cry........ so
frustrating.

Clearly the processor is not usable in this state and I would be
extremely grateful if anyone can offer help as to how to rectify the
issue. Presumably I need to be able to strip down the arm assembly so
that I can try to get inside the manifold to look at the lower sensor
with the blue wires. I assume that replacement parts are at a premium
price and thus are a deterrent.

Failing that, I shall have to revert to using my ATL-1000 which can
only be construed as progress in that the streaking will be absent.

Many thanks and sorry if it looks as if I have wittered on. It has been
a long and fruitless day.
Nicholas O. Lindan - 28 Mar 2006 01:54 GMT
Someone in this thread mentioned that a dipswitch can be thrown
to bypass the liquid sensor error detection.

Does this work?

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Baxter - 28 Mar 2006 05:14 GMT
Thanks Nicholas,

The dip switches were on a different, earlier model. On mine, I think
this is all software controlled, I didn't see a bank of dip switches
when I had the machine in pieces; but am happy to be advised where to
find them and what to do.

Being out of my depth here, I hesitate to suppose another option might
be to try to link the two white and blue wired sensors.

Baxter
Ralf R. Radermacher - 28 Mar 2006 10:28 GMT
> Being out of my depth here, I hesitate to suppose another option might
> be to try to link the two white and blue wired sensors.

Might work as long as there's no routine checking for a short-circuit
between the two on power-on. In this case, you'd need a switch and close
it after the processor has gone through the power-on routine. Just to be
on the safe side, I wouldn't connect the two wires directly but rather
through a resistor. Something between 1 and 10 kiloohms should do
nicely.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Baxter - 28 Mar 2006 16:33 GMT
Thanks Ralf

It will not be necessary as I have now fixed the fault having spoken to
a very helpful lady on the JOBO Analogue Support desk in Germany.

The fix is as follows

Connect machine to power, but leave switched off.

Press Enter, Start and Power on buttons simultaneously. This brings up
the Service Menu on which there are a great many things  - 14 items I
think.

Scroll down to No 11- Fill sensor. Press Enter, then toggle using up or
down arrow to change from With to W/O. Press Enter.

Press Power Off button.

Repair Complete!!!!

I have just run a test with same conditions as last night and the
machine pumped all chemicals in all bottles through with no errors.
It does mean that I have to fill with correct volume of chemicals for
each run. However this was part of my routine anyway in order to
conserve E6 chemicals.

For those with ATL2X00 machines, this Service menu could be the place
to start when things go wrong. I shall look there first in preference
to experiencing similar hassle to yesterdays palaver. I only hope that
I haven't written this in haste!

Baxter
Ralf R. Radermacher - 28 Mar 2006 16:46 GMT
> It will not be necessary as I have now fixed the fault having spoken to
> a very helpful lady on the JOBO Analogue Support desk in Germany.

I know her. If only there were someone like her in every company.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Nicholas O. Lindan - 28 Mar 2006 17:03 GMT
> Press Enter, Start and Power on buttons simultaneously. This brings up
> the Service Menu on which there are a great many things  - 14 items I
> think.
>
> Scroll down to No 11- Fill sensor. Press Enter, then toggle using up or
> down arrow to change from With to W/O. Press Enter.

Great ... that is the way it is done on more modern equipment with
non-volatile
memory.

See if there is a diagnostics section in the service menu ... if Jobo did
the software correctly it should be possible to display the status of the
liquid fill sensor on the display, this lets you fiddle with it and find
what it is that is causing the signal to drop.
Greg - 24 Mar 2006 01:11 GMT
> > The bottle number on which the fault occurs varies, sometimes just a
> > single one (1, 2 or 3) and sometimes any two, or occasionally all 3 -
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Do you get air bubbles in the tubing?

The Atl 3 is set by the user to with draw a given preset amount of
chemistry it assumes you have at least that amount in the tank. It also
has a default that if left unset will pump from the tank the amount for
a given drum selection
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Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 19:48 GMT
> There aren't level sensors in the bottles.

I don't have a 2300 but I've had a number of ATL's in operation. My
current one is an ATL 2+. Their innards are all basically identical,
give or take a row of bottles etc.

There is a wire pieced through the hose leading to the lift. This wire
is used for a resistance measurement in order to determine if liquid is
flowing through the hose.

Now, if during the pumping step, no liquid is detected at this position
within a certain time span (e.g. empty bottle, lid no closed...) or if
liquid detection ends too early indicating that either there hasn't been
enough soup in the bottle or pumping doesn't work as it should, an alarm
is triggered and processing is interrupted. This alarm can then be
acknowledged by pressing the start button after which the machine makes
a renewed attempt at pumping.

Apparently, this second attempt in your case delivers enough liquid for
processing to continue, but the damage (streaks) has already been done
by having the tank rotate with too little liquid for a time.

Get the idea?

Ralf

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manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Nicholas O. Lindan - 23 Mar 2006 20:32 GMT
> There is a wire pieced through the hose leading to the lift. This wire
> is used for a resistance measurement in order to determine if liquid is
> flowing through the hose.

Bingo -- that is where I would say the problem lies.

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Ralf R. Radermacher - 23 Mar 2006 21:02 GMT
> Bingo -- that is where I would say the problem lies.

I'd look at the IC sockets first. Just as likely and easier to fix.

Ralf

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private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Martin Jangowski - 24 Mar 2006 09:31 GMT
>> There is a wire pieced through the hose leading to the lift. This wire
>> is used for a resistance measurement in order to determine if liquid is
>> flowing through the hose.

> Bingo -- that is where I would say the problem lies.

Yep. And (at least at the ATL3) you can deactivate this !&%$§&$%
feature. It is dip switch #3, visible when you remove the three knobs
(On-Off, Speed and 25xx-volume) and the cover under it. IIRC it has to
in the lower position to deactivate the feature.

Additionally, this allows that you can use different volumes
for different steps. I regularly use B&W-developer 1+1 or 1+3, so the
volume of the developer is much larger than that of the fixer. For one
135/36 in a 2513 (170ml) I use 250 or 500ml developer, so I set the
volume to 330 or 470ml, but fill the fixer-bottles only with 170ml.
This will pump some excess air into the fixer bottles, but who cares...

Martin
Ralf R. Radermacher - 24 Mar 2006 10:12 GMT
> Yep. And (at least at the ATL3) you can deactivate this !&%$§&$%
> feature. It is dip switch #3, visible when you remove the three knobs
> (On-Off, Speed and 25xx-volume) and the cover under it. IIRC it has to
> in the lower position to deactivate the feature.

But then, as I understand this, the bottles will be emptied completely
in the first run, won't they? So, no way of filling them with enough
soup for two runs anymore, right?

Well, nothing keeps us from putting a little SPST switch into the front
plate. Most ATL's should be well out of warranty, by now. :-)

Do you know anything about the functions of the remaining DIP switches?

Ralf

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Ralf R. Radermacher  -  DL9KCG  -  Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Martin Jangowski - 24 Mar 2006 11:06 GMT
>> Yep. And (at least at the ATL3) you can deactivate this !&%$§&$%
>> feature. It is dip switch #3, visible when you remove the three knobs
>> (On-Off, Speed and 25xx-volume) and the cover under it. IIRC it has to
>> in the lower position to deactivate the feature.

> But then, as I understand this, the bottles will be emptied completely
> in the first run, won't they? So, no way of filling them with enough
> soup for two runs anymore, right?

Right. My workflow is like that: fill the bottles with the correct
volumes for the drum on the machine and start the run. As soon as the
developer bottle is empty, I fill it again for the next drum. The fresh
developer should have +/- 1 Celcius tolerance, this will level in the
time it takes to finish the running batch (about 25 min). I use
everything one-shot except the second fixer (I regularly use
twobath-fixer), this one will be put into the first fixer bottle.

> Well, nothing keeps us from putting a little SPST switch into the front
> plate. Most ATL's should be well out of warranty, by now. :-)

> Do you know anything about the functions of the remaining DIP switches?

Only the information found in the ATL2/ATL3 "service-manual". This one
looks like a collection of unsorted scrap with global information about
the ATLs. The most interesting parts are missing... but I remember
something about dip-switches, you can put the machine into a test mode
and recall counters and perform a relay test.

Martin
 
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