You're asking for opinions so here's mine.

TMX-100, EI 32, D-23 1:1, 12 min. 70F.

Yes, APX25 was the best film made and yes, Agfa is kaput.

==
    John S. Douglas
    Photographer & Webmaster
    www.legacy-photo,com
    www.xs750.net

Hi Chris,

Two points about "sharp", first it is highly subjective. Second, it is more
a matter of processing than film type. You need to minimize agitation while
processing to build up a good edge effect.  In the post by John Douglas  ,
he gives an example of using a relatively dilute traditional developer with
a rather modern film.  Note that his recommendation is to over expose the
film and develop for a relatively long period.  As a photoscientist, I agree
that this is good advice both for tonality and sharpness.  I would only add
that you need to agitate far less.  The problem with this technique is that
it is difficult to achieve uniform development.  If I were you, I might also
look at Fuji Acros.  I've never used it myself, but I am ready to get off my
rear end and start shooting black and white again after the spring starts to
arrive.  This morning it's 24degrees F.  A little too cold for an old duffer
like me..

It has been several years since I did much darkroom work, but the best
film that I ever saw was Ilford Pan F (Now called Ilford Pan F Plus).
It is available in 120 size from helixcamera.com for $2.99 per roll.  I
did a lot of film over the years, but Ilford Pan F was the only film I
ever found that was "viritually" grainless.
Clint H.

       If what you want is absense of grain and high resolution use
100T-Max developed in either Microdol-X or Perceptol (they are
virtually identical) at full sttrength. Sharpness is another issue. The
eye interprets high contrast edges as sharpness.  Kodak invented the
term "acutance" for this effect. High acutance pictures will give the
illusion of sharpness even when there is not really very much detail
present. A sharp grain pattern can also give the illusion of sharpness
even when the underlying image is a bit blurry. Both of these effects
have been widely used in 35mm photography where both film and lens
performance is often limited.
   Acutance effefts are produced on the negative by using developers
which tend to exagerate the contrast as sharp transitions between dark
and light. The mechanism for this has to with the generation of
developer reaction products right at the transition. The developer must
have certain properties to exagerate acutance. Those which are suitable
are generally fairly highly diluted and have relatively sulfite in
them. The sulfite tends to prevent the reaction products which are
responsible for the acutance effect from being formed.
   The extra-fine-grain developers I recommended above do not produce
much acutance effect, nor, of cource, do they produce a sharp grain
pattern. What they offer is relatively high resolution and smoothness
of tone rendition both due to the relative absence of grain. Images
from 35mm cameras can look soft when photographed with a fine grain
film and fine grain developer because the lens itself is not too sharp.
Where excellent lenses are used the image will appear to be sharp plus
the tone rendition will begin to have the smoothness usually produced
by larger formats.
   Tabluar grain films, like Kodak T-Max, Ilford Delta, and Fuji
Acros, have inherently finer grain for a given speed than conventional
emulsions. I can't say about Delta and Fuji, but I have experimented
with 100T-Max and Perceptol and find it about as fine grained as Kodak
Technical Pan in Technidol developer. Technical Pan, now discontinued,
was a special film, a normally rather high contrast film which produced
extremely fine grain with normal contrast when developed in a special
developer. T-Max in Perceptol or Microdol-X, is virtually as fine
grain, is not fussy about contrast, and has around 3 to 4 times the
speed.

--
Richard Knoppow
dickburk@ix.netcom.com

Neopan 100 Acros or Ilford Delta 100 in Paterson FX-39.

If you're coming into this for the first time and are so completely
obsessed with not seeing grain, you might try Ilford XP2 B&W film. It
is available in 120 rollfilm.

After you've done this a few times you will probably discover that
there's a lot more to a photograph than "no grain". But as you're new,
the XP2 is a very forgiving film in addition to not having the
traditional grain structure of a B&W negative.

"Razor sharp" and "no grain" are somewhat exclusive in my experience.
Grain is not all bad.

Tim.

You can pick up some Agfa APX-100.  Pretty close to what 25 was.
Then there is, as stated by others, TMax 100 & Fuji Acros.
Part will depend on your development practices and experience.  (I use
HC-100(b) but sometimes lately dilution (c). )
As well as your lens and format.
Personally, I take them in this order:
1. APX-100
2. Fuji Acros
3. TMax 100

Collin
KC8TKA

I did eleven years running a custom B&W darkroom.  Low grain was always
a goal for me with success on many levels.  I used several rolls of
Kodak Panatomic.  I was very pleased with its grainless nature, but it
was a low contrast film.  I started using Ilford Pan F and was amazed
by its grainless nature and higher contrast.  With an ISO of 50 it is a
good working film.  It is available in 120 and I think you will be
pleased with it too.
Clint

P.S.  I also did a few rolls of Kodak Technical Pan, but it has been
discontinued and stores are running out.