If Kodak still make EKTAGRAPHIC HC Slide Film, you could use that. It is
very similar to KODALITH Ortho Film 2556, Type 3.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f12/f12.jhtml#002

This data sheet is dated December 2002, so it just might be available somewhere.

Use microfilm.  Develop in lithographic developer.

Microfilm spooled into plain-old 35mm cassettes is available as
'Gigabit', 'Spur', 'Copex', 'Bluefire' (and others) high definition/resolution
film... I don't know which ones are still available as many were
Agfa products.

If you are looking for a real black/white look you need to:

o Enlarge your continuous tone 35mm negative on to lithographic
  sheet film and go through several generations of contact lith film
  copies to get rid of the grays.  Contact print the final negative
  to photographic paper.

or

o Scan and use PhotoShop.  I don't think silver brings much to the
  table when it comes to pure black/pure white images.  If you start
  with color film you will have more flexibility determining where
  detail is held in the final print.

Shoot conventioanl films developed normally, make lith enlarged
positive, make contast lith negative, then print. I used to do this all
the time.

I have tried lith film in camera and find it to be a pain, exposure latitude
is nil, each image requires much bracketing and exposure times are quite
long.  Why not just shoot regular film, give it normal development and then
make high contrast interpositives and negatives in the darkroom using lith
film in sheet film sizes?  The inevitable pinholes and other peculiarities
of litho film are easier to deal with also.

35mm Lith film is almost impossible to get. Much better to try and pick
up a box of 5x4 Lith and contact print your panchromatic negs.