dan.c.quinn@att.net a écrit :
> HE-1, hypo eliminator, is suggested when cloth contaminated
> with fixer needs cleaning. Dilution of the usual full strength
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
> wear gloves? Can it be dumped down the drain? Dan
You have a thorough description of Kodak HE-1 formula in Kodak's
Publication J-1 (page 40).
A copy can be found here (warning, the PDF's size is 20MB):
http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/files/Kodak%20j-1.pdf
HE-1 contains ammonia and hydrogen peroxyde.
It must be used quickly after mixing and yes, while using it, it must be
kept in an open container.
There is no particular warning indicated with this formula except the
gaz it generates may breake a sealed bottle but ammonia has a strong and
suffocant odor and I suggest you use it in a well-ventilated area.
If you dilute it sufficiently, I think you can dump it down the drain.
Check with your local regulations if in doubt.
Best regards,
Claudio Bonavolta
http://www.bonavolta.ch
dan.c.quinn@att.net - 20 Feb 2006 23:02 GMT
> >They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
> > the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Best regards, Claudio Bonavolta http://www.bonavolta.ch
Bleach is also suggested for cleaning screens and fabrics.
I think it must be less effective than HE-1. The ammonia present
in HE-1 will complex with any traces of oxidized silver. A chlorine
bleach might even hinder the removal of silver. The emphasis
is on the thiosulfate's conversion to sulfate.
What about the silver? Dan
Richard Knoppow - 21 Feb 2006 03:20 GMT
>> >They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
>> > the solution must be in an open container. Do I need to
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> is on the thiosulfate's conversion to sulfate.
> What about the silver? Dan
HE-1 will not complex some thiosulfate-silver complexes
without adding some bromide. For prints (I know you are
asking about clothes) its suggested that the print be
treated first with Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent, washed for 10
or 20 minutes, then treated in HE-1 with bromide and finally
washed enough to wash out the HE-1. HE-1 is a pretty strong
oxidizer but probably no worse than laundry bleach.
If you are concerned with metallic silver I suppose you
could treat the cloth with Farmer's reducer and then HE-1.
Of course, bichromate tray cleaner is an even better silver
remover. I suppose one could use it, followed with a sulfite
or bisulfite clearing bath, but I am not so sure how well
the cloth would tollerate it.

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Richard Knoppow
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dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Richard Knoppow - 21 Feb 2006 03:32 GMT
>>> >They are to be cleaned in a dilute HE-1. I know
>>> > the solution must be in an open container. Do I need
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> a sulfite or bisulfite clearing bath, but I am not so sure
> how well the cloth would tollerate it.
Kodak Hand Stain Remover S-5
Solution No.1
Potassium permanganate 7.5 grams
Water 1.0 liter
Solution No.2
Sodium bisulfite 480.0 grams
Water 1.0 liter
Treat hands with solution No.1, then rinse and treat with
No.2.
Kodak also has a couple of Potassium permanganate silver
bleaches.
Kodak Tray Cleaner TC-2 (not for hands)
Solution A
Water 1.0 liter
Potassium permanganate 5.0 grams
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated 10.0 ml
Solution B
Water 1.0 liter
Sodium Bisulfite 10.0 grams
To use pour a small amount of Solution A into the tray and
swirl around for a few minutes. Then pour out and rinse
with water. Then apply Solution B and finally rinse
thoroughly.
For cleaning rotary dryer canvas and similar I think
plain household laundry bleach will work well enough.

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Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com