>I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their own
>Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm negs
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Thanks a lot.
I don't think you're going to get what you want (without of course,
_knowing_ what you want!) by using lith film/developer, because of the
extreme high contrast of the lith film. I doubt that the lith film/developer
would well lend itself to Sabbatier (sp?) effect.
You could try developing the lith film in a paper developer such as Dektol.
You'll get high contrast with some gray midtones.
If you are just looking for a way to make multiple copies of your solorized
works, why not just shoot a copy neg of your best solarized prints? (Save
the lith stuff for some other project!)

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Ken Hart
kwhart@aec.nu
Luis Ortega - 07 Feb 2006 20:11 GMT
Thanks, I have Dektol.
Should I dilute it differently than for regular paper (1:9)?
Lith developer takes 2 3/4 min. How long should I give the lith film in
Dektol?
Should I expect the film to go clear or remain milky white opaque after
fixing?
Thanks for your advice.
>>I am trying to solarize some type 3 kodak lith film sheets, using their
>>own Kodalith A & B developer and some BW negatives. I am projecting 35mm
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> solorized works, why not just shoot a copy neg of your best solarized
> prints? (Save the lith stuff for some other project!)
Ken Hart - 08 Feb 2006 02:07 GMT
> Thanks, I have Dektol.
> Should I dilute it differently than for regular paper (1:9)?
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> fixing?
> Thanks for your advice.
My Dektol is diluted 1:2, but as a starting point, use as if developing
paper. Use time and temp same as paper. After fixing the lith film should be
clear (except of course where there's an image!)
IIRC, You can use a safelight with lith.

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Ken Hart
kwhart@aec.nu