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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / November 2005

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overdeveloped edges on 120 film

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yseult - 15 Nov 2005 22:46 GMT
I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using metal reels
and I've tried rolling the canister and inverting the canister. It has
gotten to the point where I am inverting once every minute and I'm
still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
how to get rid of this? thank you
Nicholas O. Lindan - 16 Nov 2005 00:44 GMT
.
> I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using metal reels
> and I've tried rolling the canister and inverting the canister. It has
> gotten to the point where I am inverting once every minute and I'm
> still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
> how to get rid of this? thank you

Could you describe the overdeveloped edges in detail?  Everybody has
a different 'off the top of my head' image of what 'overdeveloped
edges' look like.  If you can put a scan on www that is even better
and often leads to a speedy answer.

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Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix  . netcom . com
Fstop timer -  http://www.nolindan.com/da/fstop/index.htm

yseult - 16 Nov 2005 06:04 GMT
The edge of the roll, meaning the side of the roll touching the reels.
There is a greater density of silver developing along these edges. It
reaches in approx. a sixth of the way on each side and then bleeds into
the properly developed center. It is similar to the overdevelopment
that tends to occur on 35mm due to the sprocket holes.
UC - 16 Nov 2005 14:22 GMT
> The edge of the roll, meaning the side of the roll touching the reels.
> There is a greater density of silver developing along these edges. It
> reaches in approx. a sixth of the way on each side and then bleeds into
> the properly developed center. It is similar to the overdevelopment
> that tends to occur on 35mm due to the sprocket holes.

It is perfectly normal for the very edge to show a little extra
density, right at the boundary of the clear area.
R.W. Behan - 16 Nov 2005 08:10 GMT
I suspect you may not be agitating ENOUGH.  Kodak says every 30 seconds, but
not for how long.  I've standardized on 5 seconds' of agitation at 30 second
intervals.  I do that with two inversions, and I twist the tank around its
axis while inverting.  That's a lot of sloshing, all right, but it means the
developer is getting fairly evenly distributed across the film surface, so
development should be uniform.  If this agitation technique produces UNIFORM
overdevelopment, cut back on the total development TIME.  (E.g., cut back to
8 minutes from 10.)  Hope this helps:  it sure works for me.

Good luck,

Dick Behan

>I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using metal reels
> and I've tried rolling the canister and inverting the canister. It has
> gotten to the point where I am inverting once every minute and I'm
> still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
> how to get rid of this? thank you
UC - 16 Nov 2005 16:50 GMT
> I suspect you may not be agitating ENOUGH.

No, more likely far too much!

Kodak says every 30 seconds, but
> not for how long.  I've standardized on 5 seconds' of agitation at 30 second
> intervals.  I do that with two inversions, and I twist the tank around its
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> > still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
> > how to get rid of this? thank you
R.W. Behan - 17 Nov 2005 01:23 GMT
UC:
Here's my reasoning for suggesting too little agitation.  It seems this chap
had tried reducing his agitation until he was doing only one inversion per
minute, suspecting the overdeveloped edges resulted from too much.  Seems to
me he'd gone too far--until he was UNDERdeveloping the center portion of the
film.  This is one of those "everything's relative" situations, in other
words.  I know that two (twisting) inversions every 30 works fine for me
(Tri-X, D-76 1:1, btw), and that's a helluva lot more than one per minute.
So:  maybe not ENOUGH?

Cheers.

>> I suspect you may not be agitating ENOUGH.
>
[quoted text clipped - 24 lines]
>> > still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
>> > how to get rid of this? thank you
UC - 17 Nov 2005 15:12 GMT
Not likely. Increased flow affects the edges of the film more than the
center. The more violent the agitation, the more differential there is.

My experience watching beginners agitate is that they tend to over-do
it, sometimes violently.

> UC:
> Here's my reasoning for suggesting too little agitation.  It seems this chap
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> >> > still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
> >> > how to get rid of this? thank you
Lloyd Erlick - 16 Nov 2005 16:16 GMT
>I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using metal reels
>and I've tried rolling the canister and inverting the canister. It has
>gotten to the point where I am inverting once every minute and I'm
>still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
>how to get rid of this? thank you

November 16, 2005, from Lloyd Erlick,

Without knowing what type of film, how you
rated its EI, the type of developer,
developer dilution and development time, I
would guess you are using developer undiluted
or nearly undiluted, and developing for too
short a time.

Find a development strategy that involves
relatively dilute developer and development
times longer than about six or seven minutes.
For 120 format film (TMY) I use Xtol or D-76
diluted, for times around twelve minutes.
Frankly, I consider even seven minutes too
short to expect evenness.

The longer development time promotes even
development.

It's probable I'm wrong, so my legal staff
are demanding I warn you not to trust
anything I say, and test on unimportant work
before going into the real world.

regards,
--le
Signature

________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________

Richard Knoppow - 16 Nov 2005 22:24 GMT
>I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using
>metal reels
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> suggestions of
> how to get rid of this? thank you

  Are you filling the tank completely?  Partial filling
tends to increase the turbulance at the narrow openings at
the edges of the film.
  Is the increase uniform on both edges or only one?

Signature

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com

lew - 17 Nov 2005 00:30 GMT
Could this be a light leak in an old camera or faulty back with old light
seals?
>I am getting overdeveloped edges on my 120 film. I'm using metal reels
> and I've tried rolling the canister and inverting the canister. It has
> gotten to the point where I am inverting once every minute and I'm
> still getting overdeveloped edges. Does anyone have any suggestions of
> how to get rid of this? thank you
dan.c.quinn@att.net - 17 Nov 2005 10:18 GMT
> Could this be a light leak in an old camera
> or faulty back with old light  seals?

 The OP could fill us in some more. That's what
I was thinking most likely, light leaks. Dan
lew - 18 Nov 2005 03:48 GMT
Yeh, the edges can't be overdeveloped, or developed at all, unless they're
exposed first.

>> Could this be a light leak in an old camera
>> or faulty back with old light  seals?
>
>  The OP could fill us in some more. That's what
> I was thinking most likely, light leaks. Dan
yseult - 18 Nov 2005 19:59 GMT
It is not a light leak, my color film is fine, also a light leak would
obviously cause overexposure not overdevelopment. I have not reached
the point where the center of my film is underexposed. I am using D-76
one to one for anywhere from 8-10 minutes depending on how much I'm
pulling the film (I'm usually using Tri-X which I rate at 200 or 100
depending on lighting conditions). I have no problems developing 35mm
film. I know it's something that happens, but I also know that it
doesn't happen to everyone. So I'm trying to figure out exactly what
variable exists in what I do that doesn't exist for others. I can burn
in the edges easily but it takes more time and it's annoying so i would
like to avoid it as much as possible. I'd also like to know what reels
and tanks everyone is using. I've got Hewes reels and I thought I would
try plastic but I haven't used those in years and i couldn't get the
film to load. So anything more anyone could suggest. Thank you.
Luke - 21 Nov 2005 14:27 GMT
>It is not a light leak, my color film is fine, also a light leak would
>obviously cause overexposure not overdevelopment. I have not reached
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>try plastic but I haven't used those in years and i couldn't get the
>film to load. So anything more anyone could suggest. Thank you.

I had the same problem with 120 film edge overdevelopment many many
years ago. The solutions for me were: (1) Use standard procedure:
Agitate vigorously, but not too vigorously, using the "torus" method,
with rapping to dislodge air bells; and agitate continuously the first
30 seconds, then for 5 seconds or 2 inversions at every 30 second
interval thereafter. (2) Switch to Paterson plastic tanks and reels
which, to me, seem to give more even development of 120 than metal
reels as well as being easier to load. HTH.

Signature

Luke
___________________________________________________________________
"The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest
exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior
moral justification for selfishness."
                      -- John Kenneth Galbraith

 
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