Thanks, Jay:
My pyro is a little off - white, so I'll extend the dev time. What's your
opinion re increasing concentration (eg 1.5:100)? Also, wouldn't the alcohol
have been driven off during heating/mixing? Embarrassingly, I haven't got to
the prints yet.
-Lew
Hi Lew and Craig.

The first question I have is; are you printing on VC paper, or graded
paper? A pyro neg that prints with normal contrast on G2 paper will
require VC filtration to G5. If you're printing on VC paper, your
stained negs should look at least as dense as your unstained negs to
print without filtration, and those negs will also print well on Azo
G2, and they'll be far too contrasty for grade 2 enlarging paper.

510-Pyro gives full film speed, or better, so if you normally derate
your film by one stop to ensure good shadow detail, you'll probably
overexpose for development in 510-Pyro, which leads to dense shadows
and flat negs with normal development. I recommend that you begin your
testing by rating your film at box speed, and finding normal
development time for that speed. You might still find that your shadows
are too dense, resulting in flat negs. If so, try increasing your EI by
1/3 stop until you get good blacks in your prints.

I standardize my development at 70F. Pyro developers harden the
emulsion of the film, making higher temps practical, and safe.

If you substituted your alcohol/phenidone solution for part of the
total volume of TEA, that represents a 12.5% reduction in TEA, which
will reduce the pH of your working solution, and might well require
extended development times. Chunky pyro suggests the presence of
humidity, which could  oxidise the pyro, and degrade the potency of
your developer. Was the pyro white and fluffy, apart from the chunks,
or was it brownish?

My times are very much in line with Craig's, and my BTZS curves suggest
that 11 ½ minutes @70F with continuous agitation, should give a CI of
about .76 with VC paper, and about .92 with graded paper.

Lew,

don't fret over this. Even if your developer was a total loss, it's
only a few grams of pyro and ascorbic acid, and a few ml of TEA. If
your pyro was degraded, and your alcohol displaced some of the TEA,
your developer might require extended development times compared to a
standard batch, but it will still work. If you don't want to waste your
time finding development times for a developer that you won't make
again, use it 1:20 with 30g/liter of sodium sulfite for a paper
developer, and make a new batch of 510-Pyro without the alcohol, and
with fresh pyro. I hope your negs print better than you expect, and
please let me know if I can be of any help.

Jay

Also, any chance of bumping up the ph or getting more pyro into the mix?
-Lew