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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / August 2005Convert Noritsu 1501 to run b&w paper?
Anyone know what needs to be done to the 1501 for it to be able to run b&w paper other than putting the b&w chemistry in it and changing the temps? Robert Depends. First of all, this type of Roller Transport will only run RC papers. If you want to run B&W and are not concerned about permanence just use an RA-4 black and white paper. If you want to run a VC paper, you'll first need to figure out the developer and fixer times in the tanks with a stop watch since speed is not variable in most RT units, then adjust your temp, for example if developer and fixer times are 2 minutes (dev. time more critical natch) you want a temp of no more than 75 deg. F/22 C if the times are more like one minute you can settle for a temp in the 85F/27C range. If you can still find it, I would recommend Ektaflo R/T developer (check Kodak's time and temp recommendations, this developer was made for Rapid Rpller Transport processing) and a non-hardening rapid fixer (at film strength if the times in the Developer and Fix tank are equal, at paper dilution if the fix time is 2x development) I haven't played with a 1501 in a while sorry I can't be more precise. BTW back to the VC thing, you can use cut sheet VC filters when printing with VC paper, you just need to adjust exposure from the control console.  Signaturedarkroommike ---------- > Anyone know what needs to be done to the 1501 for it to be able to run > b&w paper other than putting the b&w chemistry in it and changing the > temps? > > Robert Thanks Mike, I have a 1501 that we are not using anymore. We still do a good bit of true b&w processing and printing. We currently do all the proofing on a Durst mini printer and a 16" Kreonite. The 1501 would be much more efficient. So you think all I need to do is put my b&w chemistry in the 1501 and adjust the tank temps? On my Kreonite the time in the developer is 50 sec. Thanks. Robert Robert, that's about it. You already have 45 second dev and fix times from the RA-4 process, and a 90 second wash. One thing to remember is that there are no non -plumbed specs for processing B&W materals, so if you can't arrange for running water, forget stabilizer and fill the stab replenisher tank with water. Max out the repl rate for it, and drain and refill the 4 stab tanks with fresh water daily so you don;t get into biogrowth problems. I would set the temp at about 30C to make sure you don;t run into problems with ambient room temp. You may be a little overdeveloped at 45 sec, but can easily adjust for that with exposure. Use Kodak Polymax RT Developer Repl at 20 mL/square foot and Polymax RT Fixer Repl at 30 mL/square foot. You can use the magenta/green and yellow/blue color correction buttons to adjust contrast. +M and +B for hhigher contrast, +Y and +G for lower. > Thanks Mike, > I have a 1501 that we are not using anymore. We still do a good bit of [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Robert Sounds about right, the Polymax R/T developer replaced Ektaflo (probably just repackaged). And as Bernie said look out for bio-slime! You may be able to plumb the stabilizer tank with tempered water and and overflow (standpipe). Depends on how far you are willing to modify your 1501. Signaturedarkroommike ---------- > Robert, that's about it. You already have 45 second dev and fix times from > the RA-4 process, and a 90 second wash. One thing to remember is that there [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > > > Robert Thanks Mike. Robert Thanks Bernie, I've been using Kodak Rapid Fix w/ no hardner in the Kreonite. Think that will work OK in the 1501 or do I need to go with the Polymax Fix? Robert Polymax RT Fix is the same as Rapid Fix Part A mixed 1:3 with no hardener (Part B). They are interchangeable. > Thanks Bernie, > I've been using Kodak Rapid Fix w/ no hardner in the Kreonite. Think > that will work OK in the 1501 or do I need to go with the Polymax Fix? > > Robert |
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