I tried a coating on a glass plate yesterday. Unfortunately it was
underexposed so it didn't quite turn out properly. I'll have to do it
again. However, I did discover something (from reading the instructions
- okay, maybe that's cheating ;) - giving your print extra long time in
the fixer causes the emusion to turn transparent which is perfect if
you want to print on glass.

The other advantage of the gelatin-on-glass method is that if you don't
like the result you can simply wash the emulsion off and start again
(which is what I will have to do). However, after being left overnight,
the emulsion dried out and became brittle - this, in itself, is not a
bad thing except that the transparent areas began to fog up. Perhaps
more time in the fixer? I gave it the recommended two minutes. Or maybe
it needs to solidify in darkness - this was left under our bright
kitchen lights. Next time I'll try leaving it in the darkroom.

I also tried it on a piece of cloth. The result is spectacular. Here's
a tip, though. Use a piece of cardboard as a backing board. The
emulsion will actually stick the fabric to the cardboard making it easy
to handle - simply treat it like a piece of photo paper. In fact, you
can use a piece of photo paper. Rockland Colloid, the manufacturers of
Liquid Light, suggest giving fabric two coats of the emulsion. I don't
think that's completely necessary, but I will try it to see if, maybe,
it gives more depth to the image. Also, if you use a piece of photo
paper as a backing board, don't make it an exposed one. I found that
the developer caused the exposed halides to lift off the paper and
leech into the fabric covering it with lots of little black dots. The
effect is interesting - possibly even desirable, but it completely
trashes all of your chemicals.