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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / May 2005

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3 bath vs. 6 bath E6

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Martin Riddle - 22 May 2005 16:20 GMT
Hey Guys,

Does anyone have a comparitive test for 3 vs 6 bath E6 processing.
I've allways used the 3 bath tetenal, and was wondering if the 6 bath kodak has any advantages.
What I am specifically looking for is effects on grain.

TIA
Martin
Frank Pittel - 23 May 2005 01:09 GMT
: Hey Guys,

: Does anyone have a comparitive test for 3 vs 6 bath E6 processing.
: I've allways used the 3 bath tetenal, and was wondering if the 6 bath kodak has any advantages.
: What I am specifically looking for is effects on grain.

I used to use the 3 step Tetenal kit for a couple of years before switching
to Kodak's 6 step one shot kit. I was happy with the 3 step and only
went with the Kodak kit when I couldn't get the Tetenal kit and had
film I needed to process.

I just got done looking at slides processed with both kits and in both
cases the color balance was right and the grain was non-existant. I've
stuck with the Kodak kit because it's actually easier then the 3 step
kit. The problem with the Tetenal kit as you know requires a wash between
steps. This means a lot of 100 degree water.

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Malcolm Stewart - 23 May 2005 09:42 GMT
> I just got done looking at slides processed with both kits and in both
> cases the color balance was right and the grain was non-existant. I've
> stuck with the Kodak kit because it's actually easier then the 3 step
> kit. The problem with the Tetenal kit as you know requires a wash between
> steps. This means a lot of 100 degree water.

I've used the Tetenal Colortec E6 process with success using a Jobo Duolab
rotary tank system.  I bought extra bottles for the rinse water and these
sit in the tempered bath along with the bottles holding the chemicals.
Biggest initial problem was sourcing the formalin for the final
stabilisation step.  Eventually found it at a dealer supplying to the
aquatic trade.
I also made a vertical cabinet hot air film dryer (using the Jobo Mistral 2
heater/filter unit) as the recommendation for long life is to heat dry at
~45degC.

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M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
http://www.megalith.freeserve.co.uk/oddimage.htm

Martin Riddle - 23 May 2005 23:18 GMT
Thanks,

I trying to figure out why I get such noticable grain, even with over exposed film. I think it may be whats called reticulation,
temperature changes during development.
Maybe Ill give the kodak 6 bath a try.

Martin
> : Hey Guys,
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> kit. The problem with the Tetenal kit as you know requires a wash between
> steps. This means a lot of 100 degree water.
Malcolm Stewart - 23 May 2005 23:31 GMT
> Thanks,
> I trying to figure out why I get such noticable grain, even with over exposed film. I think it may be whats called reticulation,
> temperature changes during development.
> Maybe Ill give the kodak 6 bath a try.
> Martin

Surprising these days, as modern films are supposed to be quite tough.
Is this with all films?  If it's only with Provia 100F it could be something
else.  Do a Google for "pepper grain".

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M Stewart
Milton Keynes, UK
http://www.megalith.freeserve.co.uk/oddimage.htm

Martin Riddle - 24 May 2005 03:27 GMT
I'm aware of 'pepper grain'. I usually use kodak Elitechrome 200 or 100. Even the GX stuff had some grain, although it was softer.
I've shot some Portra C41 and the grain is much better, just to give you an idea.

> > Thanks,
> > I trying to figure out why I get such noticable grain, even with over
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Is this with all films?  If it's only with Provia 100F it could be something
> else.  Do a Google for "pepper grain".
 
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