Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / May 2005
kodak tmax100 fixing...
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death skunk five - 08 May 2005 18:55 GMT Hey guys,
Is it ever possible to clear out the entire neg on tmax 100 from that pink look? I heard I just needed longer fixing times... but I just fixed one at 6min and still has the pink tint...
anyone ever fully clear it? or is it even possible?
thanks.
Pieter Litchfield - 08 May 2005 19:06 GMT Try using hypo clearing solution. After fixing is complete, I wash my film (35mm & 120 in small tank) for 2 minutes in running water, then use Kodak hypo clearing solution for 2 minutes with agitation, then wash for 10 minutes in running water. It's completely clear.
Note that a little pink means nothing. A lot of pink (AKA magenta) may mean incomplete fixing I have heard. Too much fixing time is not a good idea either. If you fixer is exhausted you will get a magenta tone, but more time won't imporve on the fixing. Test your fixer and replace as necessary. I understand Tmax film does take more fixing time - I think in the order of 5 minutes using Rapid Fix. It will exhaust fixer more rapidly that other filems like Tri-X.
> Hey guys, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. death skunk five - 08 May 2005 19:47 GMT i just used agfa fix for about 6min... i was quick to note the pink tone... after washing for about 10min it cleared up... its hanging to dry now and the colours are completely gone,
i guess it just takes a little more fixing, i always use 1 shot fix.
everything looks good. thanks!
> Try using hypo clearing solution. After fixing is complete, I wash my > film (35mm & 120 in small tank) for 2 minutes in running water, then use [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> >> thanks. narke - 09 May 2005 09:39 GMT > Hey guys, > > Is it ever possible to clear out the entire neg on tmax 100 from that pink > look? > I heard I just needed longer fixing times... but I just fixed one at 6min i remeber somewhere (may be in Kodak's Tech Publish) suggested a 10min fixing.
> and > still has the pink tint... > > anyone ever fully clear it? or is it even possible? > > thanks. John Walton - 09 May 2005 14:04 GMT The TMax films are meant to be rotary processed. I find that frequent agitation during the fix cycle helps. I find that using a dilute selenium toner solution, or simply some household amonia -- 1/2 capful in a liter of water -- will clear the film. Using dilute selenium toner boosts the contrast a bit, btw
Pity that TechPan is going the way of the dodo --- the film base is absolutely clear.
> Hey guys, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. Richard Knoppow - 09 May 2005 14:34 GMT I don't know where you got the idea that T-Max films are meant to be rotary processed or that it would make any difference in the result. Kodak gives instructions for all types of processing. Rotary processing, that is, processing in drums, gives constant agitation but so do other machine processing methods or plain old tray processing. Rotary processing has the disadvantage of exposing a much larger area of the processing solutions to the air. This is the main reason, along the small quantities used, that requires one shot use of developers. The residual stain in T-Max, and some other films, comes from the type of sensitizing dye used. This dye tends to be persistent. It binds to the gelatin and probably the silver halide. By adjusting the pH of the emulsion to a point which is above (more alkaline) than the isoelectric point much of this binding is eliminated and the dye is released. Photographic gelatin has an isoelectric point just on the acid side of neutral. The use of a mildly alkaline bath, such as the weak ammonia solution you mention, serves to raise the pH enough to release both the dye and also hypo. Hypo is also bound by the electric charges in the emulsion when its more acid than the isoelectric point. The use of alkaline baths is well known and has been for decades. Agfa still suggests a 2% solution of Sodium carbonate, but Kodak, as the result of research many years ago, found that Ammonia is more effective. An even better solution is the use of a buffered solution of Sodium sulfite. Sulfite, beside being a mild alkali, also acts as an ion exchanger for thiosulfate. By buffering it to neutral the solution serves to make the gelatin high enough in pH to release hypo and dyes without completely eliminating the hardening from alum hardener (which operates only over a narrow pH window). Because the resulting pH is close to the isoelectric point the swelling of the gelatin is near minimum. It also has the ion exchange property of the sulfite, which other salts either do not have or have in a lesser amount. Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent is about a 2% solution of Sodium sulfite, which is buffered to neutral with Sodium bisulfite. It also contains a small amount of EDTA tetra sodium salt and sodium citrate (becomes citric acid in solution) which act as preservatives for the Sulfite, extending shelf life of the stock solution, and also sequester insoluble salts in the water preventing sludging when the solution is re-used. A two minute treatment in KHCA will remove the dye stain and also helps to release some otherwise insoluble fixer reaction products. This is important for films like T-Max and Tri-X, which have relatively large amounts of slow to fix Silver Iodide in them. Note that 35mm T-Max, as well as most other 35mm B&W negative materials, have a pigment in the support. This pigment is to prevent conduction of light through the film base. It is permanent and not affected by any processing solution. In most films it is a neutral gray color. The residual sensitizing dye in T-Max is a weak pinkish magenta and is quite uniform. If the film is not completely fixed it may have a stronger color which can be blotchy looking. Film can be refixed successfully if done soon enough after the original fixing. After a couple of weeks the residual silver and fixer reaction products may be transformed to a form which does not wash out.
-- Richard Knoppow dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Pieter Litchfield - 09 May 2005 18:08 GMT Thanks - this is well written & useful!!
>I don't know where you got the idea that T-Max films are meant to be > rotary processed or that it would make any difference in the result. [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] > Richard Knoppow > dickburk@ix.netcom.com Nicholas O. Lindan - 09 May 2005 18:33 GMT "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote
> ... T-Max films are [not necessarily] meant to be rotary processed ... > Kodak gives instructions for all types of processing. I think what is meant is that T-Max films need to be well agitated in the fix and rotary processing assures this. Jobo/drum/motor base processing is the only continuos agitation method in general use and so "rotary == continuous agitation"; dip & dunk or nitrogen burst agitation would give similar results.
TTBOMK, Kodak uses dip & dunk for determining developing times and then multiplies by a fudge factor [the page # divided by the temperature in Billings MT, same as for math homework] to get times for other methods. I am sure they use d&d for fixing the film and so don't know what all the fuss is about re pink negatives.
The old "Tri-X: drop it in the fix and go do something else for 10 minutes" method is almost guaranteed to result in a pink stripe down the middle of the roll.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Richard Knoppow - 10 May 2005 02:14 GMT > "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > for 10 minutes" method is almost guaranteed to result in a > pink stripe down the middle of the roll. Absolutely! Both fixer and developer must be agitated properly. Fixing time is decreased with agitation and is probably minimum with constant agitation. Development rate increases with agitation but continuous agitation is not necessary to get good results provided there is sufficient agitation. I think one reason people have problems with development is incorrect or absent agitation. I have no idea what method Kodak uses for finding film curves. The technique for measuring speed using the ISO method is specified in the standard but may not be the same as used for developing sensitometric tests. Dip and dunk machines are typically used for photofinishing. Again, I have no idea what Kodak used for its sensitometric testing. Fixing rate has been very extensively researched and there is a ton of stuff in the literature about it. For films like T-Max and Tri-X, which have lots of Silver Iodide in the emulsion, Ammonium thiosulfate fixers ("rapid" fixers) have an advantage in speed and completeness of fixing. Iodide acts as a restrainer of fixing. Bromide does also but to such a small degree that it is not significant. A good test is to measure the clearing time of a film. This is the time it takes undeveloped but wet film to become visually clear in the fixing bath. The reason for using wetted film (soak for two or three minutes in water) is that fixing rate and the effect of the concentration of thiosulfate in the fixer, changes with wet vs: dry film. The fixing rate of dry film is misleading. The clearing time is an indicator of how well the fixer is working with the specific film. Total fixing time is, by old rule of thumb, double the clearing time. There is also an old rule that the fixing bath should be discarded when clearing time doubles from that of fresh fixer. At least for a single bath, and probably even for two bath fixing, this is too far exhausted for archival processing and may indicate that the fixing process is not being completed. It should be understood that clear film may still have enough unfixed halide or insoluble fixer reaction products in it to cause image degradation with time. The real test of completeness of fixing is to use a test solution which will convert any residual silver into a visible form. The usual tests are a solution of Sodium Sulfide (not sulfite) or a 1:9 dilution of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner. Both the sulfide and the selenium will tone halide as readily as metallic silver so they leave a brown or yellow stain if there is much residual silver in the emulsion. The Selenium test must be used on well washed material because it fails if too much hypo is left in the emulsion. This is too bad because it is longer lasting than the sulfide solution and free from the rotten egg odor of sulfide. The sulfide test is:
Kodak ST-1 Residual Silver Test Stock Solution Water 100.0 ml Sodium Sulfide, anhydrous 2.0 grams
For use dilute 1 part stock with 9 parts water.
Place a couple of drops on a clear area of the print or film, which should be wet but blotted free of surface water. Allow to stand for 2 to 3 minutes and blot off. There should be no visible stain.
If it is desired to use the print or negative it should be washed following the test. If not washed the test area will develop a stain with time.
This is a better test than the Iodide test for fixing baths because it is a direct test of fixer effectiveness. For prints its best to fix and wash a scrap of paper for the purposes of testing rather than using the border of an actual print since the scrap can be tossed away after the test is completed.
I would like to find out from Kodak how they go about sensitometric testing. I will try to write to my contact there but the customer service people are pretty isolated from whatever laboratory people are still there. BTW, I have always gotten good results from T-Max films but they very certainly are more sensitive to variations in development than other films. To get predictable contrast one must be careful of temperature and time and consistent in agitation. T-Max is capable of very high densities so over exposed or over developed negatives can be extremely difficult to print.
 Signature --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Frank Pittel - 10 May 2005 03:02 GMT I've been working with Tmax films for a number of years. As most of the people here know I use a jobo processor for most of the film I shoot. For about 10% of the film I process the film by hand. I also use Kodak's rapid fixer but used to use Kodak's "regular powder" fixer.
I reuse the fixer and used to test it with hypo check. After a while I noticed that if Tmax film didn't clear after a 5min fix and ten minute wash the fixer was exhausted. As Kodak states clearly a little bit of magenta stain in the negative doesn't effect the archivability of the negative and doesn't effect printing. I can't make any claims about the archivability I can state from experience that a little stain has no effect printing the negative.
: > "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@ix.netcom.com> wrote : > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] : > for 10 minutes" method is almost guaranteed to result in a : > pink stripe down the middle of the roll.
: Absolutely! Both fixer and developer must be agitated : properly. Fixing time is decreased with agitation and is [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] : rotten egg odor of sulfide. : The sulfide test is:
: Kodak ST-1 Residual Silver Test Stock Solution : Water 100.0 ml : Sodium Sulfide, anhydrous 2.0 grams
: For use dilute 1 part stock with 9 parts water.
: Place a couple of drops on a clear area of the print or : film, which should be wet but blotted free of surface water. : Allow to stand for 2 to 3 minutes and blot off. There : should be no visible stain.
: If it is desired to use the print or negative it should be : washed following the test. If not washed the test area will : develop a stain with time.
: This is a better test than the Iodide test for fixing : baths because it is a direct test of fixer effectiveness. : For prints its best to fix and wash a scrap of paper for the : purposes of testing rather than using the border of an : actual print since the scrap can be tossed away after the : test is completed.
: I would like to find out from Kodak how they go about : sensitometric testing. I will try to write to my contact [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] : over exposed or over developed negatives can be extremely : difficult to print.
 Signature Keep working millions on welfare depend on you ------------------- fwp@deepthought.com
Nicholas O. Lindan - 10 May 2005 15:26 GMT > "Nicholas Lindan" wrote: > > TTBOMK, Kodak uses dip & dunk for determining developing > > times > I have no idea what method Kodak uses for finding film > curves. I seem to remember a description of Kodak using d&d and a fudge factor to figure developing times from an article about the development [er, creation] of Xtol in Photo Techniques magazine.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
John - 11 May 2005 06:41 GMT >I seem to remember a description of Kodak using d&d and >a fudge factor to figure developing times from an article >about the development [er, creation] of Xtol in >Photo Techniques magazine. Yep. Photo Techniques gave a complete story on Xtol and how Sylvia Z. and Dick D. established all of the times for the original J107 publication.
JD - www.puresilver.org
Lloyd Erlick - 10 May 2005 15:21 GMT >... >The old "Tri-X: drop it in the fix and go do something else >for 10 minutes" method is almost guaranteed to result in a
>pink stripe down the middle of the roll. ...
may1005 from Lloyd Erlick,
Pink Skunk:
Three ounces Tequila One ounce exhausted fixer Garnish with strip of inadequately fixed 35mm film
regards, --le
 Signature ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. voice: 416-686-0326 email: portrait@heylloyd.com net: www.heylloyd.com ________________________________
John - 11 May 2005 06:46 GMT >Three ounces Tequila >One ounce exhausted fixer >Garnish with strip of inadequately fixed 35mm film Well that's one way to cleanse your colon !
JD - www.puresilver.org
John - 11 May 2005 06:31 GMT > [the page # divided by the >temperature in Billings MT, same as for math homework] Ah ! This explains Sylvias inaccuracies with Xtol !
JD
Johnson - 10 May 2005 13:56 GMT I got the idea from Kodak.
> I don't know where you got the idea that T-Max films are meant to be > rotary processed Lloyd Erlick - 10 May 2005 15:09 GMT >The TMax films are meant to be rotary processed. I find that frequent >agitation during the fix cycle helps. I find that using a dilute selenium >toner solution, or simply some household amonia -- 1/2 capful in a liter of >water -- will clear the film. ...
may1005 from Lloyd Erlick,
If I recall, Kodak specifies continuous agitation in the fixer for T-Max films. I use a double-bath setup for my film fixer, and I agitate the whole time the film is fixing. My T-Max 400 (TMY) negs never have any color. If I'm careless and over-use my fixer, the color is present.
The effect of ammonia is interesting. I hadn't thought of that. Treatment with selenium is supposed to be an archival enhancement in processing black and white negatives, too.
regards, --le
 Signature ________________________________ Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto. voice: 416-686-0326 email: portrait@heylloyd.com net: www.heylloyd.com ________________________________
Pieter Litchfield - 10 May 2005 15:20 GMT My Kodak data manual has procedures for both small tank and sheet Tmax. As a 35mm/120 user, I use small tanks. The procedure calls for 5 seconds of agitation every 30. 5 quick flips of the wrist.
>>The TMax films are meant to be rotary processed. I find that frequent >>agitation during the fix cycle helps. I find that using a dilute selenium [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > net: www.heylloyd.com > ________________________________ John - 11 May 2005 06:45 GMT >If I recall, Kodak specifies continuous agitation in the fixer for >T-Max films "Fix at 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) for 3 to 5 minutes with vigorous agitation in KODAK Rapid Fixer. Be sure to agitate the film frequently during fixing."
JD - www.puresilver.org
John - 11 May 2005 06:28 GMT >The TMax films are meant to be rotary processed. John you know better than this !
JD - www.puresilver.org
Javi L - 09 May 2005 16:09 GMT Fixing a couple more minutes will help to remove the pink tint. The little pink will be out during the wash. Wash it till Tmax is completely transparent, once you think it´s fixed and washed leave the films in steady water and the pink will go off with ease.
> Hey guys, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > thanks. John - 11 May 2005 06:27 GMT >Hey guys, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > >anyone ever fully clear it? or is it even possible? Put it on your lightbox for a little while. The dye is UV sensitive and will fade.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org
Millions of men have lived to fight, build palaces and boundaries, shape destinies and societies; but the most compelling force of all times has been the force of originality and creation profoundly affecting the roots of human spirit. Ansel Adams
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