Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / April 2005
Darkroom basics
|
|
Thread rating:  |
hatchsea@msu.edu - 18 Apr 2005 05:52 GMT What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what am I missing.
So far I've got:
The Enlarger Bulk Film Loader and cassettes Developing Trays Photo Paper The necessary chemicals (I think)
Besides these, what items are essential to a darkroom? The items I have listed may seem without priority, but I've just gathered them from around...relatives, garage sales etc. I'll be developing both film and the prints, and I've got a couple months to get the rest of the essentials.
Also, for your sake, can any body recommend a book or too which will help me get under way?
Thanks; Sean
Alan Smithee - 18 Apr 2005 06:20 GMT My current inventory, pick and choose Hot and cold running water. A big big sink. Mine's homemade from 3/4 plywood then epoxied w/fiberglass reinforced. Thermometers. I picked up an $8 digital indoor/outdoor one from Walmart is amazing accurate. Lots of jars 4L or 1 gallon jugs, juice containers or old windshield washer containers funnels one for each chemical pipettes a drug dealer scale 100 to 500 grams accurate to .1 or .01 grams glass stir rods tongs rubber gloves vapour mask/respirator towels a rubber floor mat to stand on so your feet don't get sore a radio so you don't get bored steel ruler and cutting pad paper cutters sissors microfiber clothes edwal no scratch dust/spotting kit dust brushes safelights changebag in case you get into trouble coffee maker and kettle hot plate or similar for heating up solutions, avail as a second hand store get one over 150 watts. paper safe easels contact printing frame Books: Darkroom by Langford graduated measures 25ml, 100 ml, 1000ml, 2000ml electrical tape masking tape a print dryer a roller print processor a black light U/V light box for alt processes
and more....
> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what > am I missing. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Thanks; > Sean David Nebenzahl - 18 Apr 2005 09:06 GMT On 4/17/2005 9:52 PM hatchsea@msu.edu spake thus:
> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what > am I missing. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > the prints, and I've got a couple months to get the rest of the > essentials. You're doing the right thing, gathering the stuff you need from here and there. You'll find you don't need to go to a photo store for very much of the stuff you use.
Rather than give you an exhaustive laundry list of every little thing you might ever need in a darkroom, I'll just list a few things that I consider basic essentials in addition to what you already have:
o Print tongs: I use the cheap bamboo & rubber ones o Thermometer. Don't bother with digital anything or a fancy-schmancy dial type (although I do have one I got at a flea market); the most accurate type is still the standard glass one. This you should buy at a camera place. o Timer: you'll need one for your enlarger to time your prints, and another for film development. For the latter, any cheap little digital job will do. o Safelight: if nothing else, you can actually use red christmas tree lights for making (black & white) prints. Or get a used photo safelight cheap. Remember: no safelight for film (unless you're using orthochromatic film, which you probably aren't). o Containers: I've been replacing all my PE (polyethylene) bottles with PETE, which is better for chemicals as it's less porous. In any case, you should be able to pick up all the containers you need for free. Check your local recycling center. o Big tray for washing prints. A dishwashing tray (or larger) will work. o Funnels; mixing containers; measuring cup, graduated cylinder or other measuring device. o Some way to hang film & prints to dry. I have a piece of telephone wire strung across my bathroom with wooden clothespins.
One thing NOT to get: a film squeegee. Don't let anyone talk you into getting one of those horrible things!
 Signature "I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon."
- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by the late Hunter S. Thompson
Jan T - 18 Apr 2005 19:19 GMT Sean,
have a look at http://www.darkroomsource.net/ too, looks very informative to me.
Jan
laura halliday - 19 Apr 2005 00:23 GMT hatch...@msu.edu wrote:
> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; > in other words, what am I missing. > > So far I've got... Don't forget:
Changing bag. Best photo investment you'll ever make.
Daylight tank. Much easier for roll film.
Books? There are lots. Have a look in the photography section of any decent bookstore.
Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..." ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
dan.c.quinn@att.net - 19 Apr 2005 23:44 GMT > Don't forget: > Changing bag. Best photo investment you'll ever make. "Darkroom basics" ? A changing bag?
> Books? There are lots. Have a look in the photography > section of any decent bookstore. Don't pass by the Used Book bookstores. I'm a minimalist myself; I don't use tongs and process single tray. Dan
laura halliday - 20 Apr 2005 15:48 GMT dan.c.qu...@att.net wrote:
> "Darkroom basics" ? A changing bag? If every inquiry was answered as literally as you seem to be implying here, there would be very little to talk about.
Others have recommended a changing bag. Why is it OK for them to do so, but not for me?
Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..." ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Andy - 20 Apr 2005 11:57 GMT Hi Sean,
You seem to be well on your way to collecting all the equipment for a dark room. However, you don't seem to be considering how you are going to dry the prints and film once you've processed them. Although you may think you can just hang them on a line to air dry, in practice this will just lead to dust and drying streaks. You need to consider getting some sort of electrical enclosed warm air dryer.
I would syggest you try and get hold of a film dryer first, as dust and dryiny marks can render part of your processed film unusable.I had one made by Durst. You can also dry prints in them also.
Hope it helps
Regards
Andy
> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what > am I missing. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > Thanks; > Sean Pieter Litchfield - 20 Apr 2005 13:34 GMT I dry film as follows:
After the final wash, I rinse in "steam distilled" water with a drop of Photo-Flo. Note that more Phot-Flo is not better - it will leave a film! I never ever touch the wet film with a finger, sponge, or chamois! Note that spots and streaks cannot be fixed by a drying cabinet, but rather by good technique and chemicals. I then hang the film to dry in my darkroom and close the door for several hours before returning. A film drying cabinet is nice but maybe no absolutely necessary. If you have a dust-free darkroom (cleansurfaces, filtered airflow) you can prbably get away without one. Try a roll or two to see what happens.
> Hi Sean, > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] >> Thanks; >> Sean jjs - 20 Apr 2005 13:45 GMT > Hi Sean, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > lead to dust and drying streaks. You need to consider getting some sort > of electrical enclosed warm air dryer. I, for one, strongly disagree. If he has relatively clean air, then hang-drying film is just fine. Air drying prints is, too.
Koen - 20 Apr 2005 14:16 GMT > I, for one, strongly disagree. If he has relatively clean air, then > hang-drying film is just fine. Air drying prints is, too. I agree. I hang the film to dry in a clean room. Never had any problems with dust.
Koen
Nicholas O. Lindan - 20 Apr 2005 15:15 GMT > What am I missing? > So far I've got: [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Photo Paper > The necessary chemicals (I think) Where to begin .... let me count the items:
Need:
Photo store Photographic paper More chemicals (probably) Safelight(s) Polycontrast filters Developing tank (and reel) Thermometer Print tongs Film clips Dusting brush for negs and lenses Negative sleeves Timer, an old GraLab
Scrounged stuff (though photo stuff can work better) Measuring graduate(s) Mixing pail Mixing rod Storage bottles Heavy glass 9x12 w/ ground edges/contact print frame
Commodity Funnel Towels Paper towels (& holder is nice) Black cloth, weatherproofing strip Garbage pail (use often) Sponge Windex Rubber gloves Scissors Mat/utility/Stanley knife Marks-a-lot, mech. pencil Radio Chair/stool Work table w/waterproof top (kitchen counter top) 2 3x12 mirrors Sticky tape Notebook (use often) Ruler Sheets of cardboard (back of legal pad ...) Coat hangers (for wire for dodgers) Extension cords/outlet strips
Nice to have Darkroom sink Floor mats Paper cutter Print washer (the type made from a tray, or a siphon) Lots more trays, deep trays for washing Even more trays Multi-reel tanks & reels Light box 10x loupe (or 4x if medium format) Paper easel(s) (4-blade adjustable or 'Speed-Eazel') Paper safe Office supply type cabinet Work tables - lots of Square feet - lots of Print dryer for fiber base paper Window screens for drying RC Air conditioner or air baffle Space heater T-Square Business cards (can get you into places ...) Flood light or two on light stands
For Christmas Dry mount press Fletcher-type mat cutter Framing supplies New enlarger New enlarger lens Bigger darkroom
If you don't keep things reasonable A new wife (or maybe not)
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
J. Christopher - 20 Apr 2005 17:53 GMT > Polycontrast filters Does one need filters for each type of variable contrast paper being used? I’m using Ilford filters with Kodak paper and have been having problem with contrast. Keep in mind that I have only recently set up my darkroom so I’m not sure if it is related to the filters or if it is indicative of a larger problem relating to either my lens or chemistry [poor temp control posibly].
Joel
Gregory Blank - 20 Apr 2005 18:30 GMT > > Polycontrast filters > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Joel They are somewhat different, if you do a step wedge test one exposure per filter, and read them on a densitometer you will see how much. However you certainly can use filters across makes of paper. Since my contention is that paper speed and contrast are linked a variance in ideal filtration for a given paper will be a work around situation.
 Signature LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918
Pieter Litchfield - 20 Apr 2005 18:46 GMT I have asked the same question of many people. The answer I get back is
:they are all the same." You didn't say what the problem was but it could also be with the bulb/enlarger or maybe you just need more experience with the paper. I use Kodak filters with Ilford papers.
>> Polycontrast filters > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Joel Nicholas O. Lindan - 20 Apr 2005 22:06 GMT > Nicholas O. Lindan wrote: > > Polycontrast filters > I’m using Ilford filters with Kodak paper and have been having > problem with contrast. What sort of problems?
FWIW, I normally use Kodak filters with Kodak, Agfa and Ilford paper. I haven't noticed any difference when changing to Ilford filters.
Variable Contrast (VC) papers are not really as advertised, so don't be surprised if #1 filter shows less contrast than #1/2 and other peculiarities.
It is instructive to plot the curves for VC paper. Either step tablet and densitometer or test strips and a grey scale/ eyeballs works.
You will find:
o The grades are not evenly spaced o Sometimes they run backwards o Sometimes they are straight from toe to shoulder o Sometimes they curve up " " " o Sometimes they curve down " " " o Often they have humps and bumps o There is nothing constant (or logical) about paper speed when changing filters except that the very high grades are slower
* * *
For Ilford MG-IV/RC & Kodak filters I found:
Rationalization of paper grades, ~.6 stop/grade
Filter -1 0 1.5 2 3 4 5 Grade 0.0 1.5 2.0 3.0 3.5 4.0 5.0
Exposure required for given density
1.90 OD 5.4 4.4 3.9 3.7 3.5 3.9 3.9 Stops .13 OD 0.5 0.7 0.7 0.8 0.9 2.0 2.5 Delta 4.9 3.7 3.2 2.9 2.5 1.9 1.4
Exposure correction to hold the same highlight or shadow
Shadow 0.0 -1.0 -1.5 -1.7 -2.0 -1.5 -1.6 Highlight 0.0 0.2 0.1 0.3 0.4 1.5 1.9
When changing grades take the value for the new grade and subtract the value for the old grade to compute how much to change the exposure.
If the shadows are the important part of the pic then first find the best shadow exposure and then change grades, using the shadow correction values above, until the highlights are at their least objectionable.
If the highlights are the important part then first find the best highlight exposure and then change grades, using the highlight correction values above, until the shadows look about right.
* * *
Example 1: to move from filter 2 to 3, keeping the same highlights but making the shadows deeper:
Increase exposure by 0.1 stops (0.4 - 0.3)
Example 2: to move from filter 3 to 4, keeping the same shadows but making the highlights lighter:
Decrease exposure by 0.3 stops (-2.0 - -1.7)
Example 3: to move from filter 2 to 1.5, keeping the same shadows but making the highlights darker:
Increase exposure by 0.2 stops (-1.5 - -1.7)
-- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Stewy - 24 Apr 2005 10:31 GMT > > What am I missing? > > So far I've got: [quoted text clipped - 84 lines] > If you don't keep things reasonable > A new wife (or maybe not) Bucket of water if there's no water source in the darkroom.
|
|
|