Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
PhotoKB Home
Discussion Groups
Digital Photography
Digital PhotoDSLR CamerasZLR CamerasPoint & Shoot Cameras
Film Photography
35 mmLarge FormatMedium formatDarkroomFilm and LabsOther Equipment
Photo Technique
Nature PhotographyPeople PhotographyTechnique General
General Photo Topics
General TopicsAustralian PhotographyUK Photography
DirectoryPhoto Clubs

Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / April 2005

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Darkroom basics

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
hatchsea@msu.edu - 18 Apr 2005 05:52 GMT
What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what
am I missing.

So far I've got:

The Enlarger
Bulk Film Loader and cassettes
Developing Trays
Photo Paper
The necessary chemicals (I think)

Besides these, what items are essential to a darkroom?  The items I
have listed may seem without priority, but I've just gathered them from
around...relatives, garage sales etc.  I'll be developing both film and
the prints, and I've got a couple months to get the rest of the
essentials.

Also, for your sake, can any body recommend a book or too which will
help me get under way?

Thanks;
Sean
Alan Smithee - 18 Apr 2005 06:20 GMT
My current inventory, pick and choose
Hot and cold running water.
A big big sink. Mine's homemade from 3/4 plywood then epoxied w/fiberglass
reinforced.
Thermometers. I picked up an $8 digital indoor/outdoor one from Walmart is
amazing accurate.
Lots of jars
4L or 1 gallon jugs, juice containers or old windshield washer containers
funnels one for each chemical
pipettes
a drug dealer scale 100 to 500 grams accurate to .1 or .01 grams
glass stir rods
tongs
rubber gloves
vapour mask/respirator
towels
a rubber floor mat to stand on so your feet don't get sore
a radio so you don't get bored
steel ruler and cutting pad
paper cutters
sissors
microfiber clothes
edwal no scratch
dust/spotting kit
dust brushes
safelights
changebag in case you get into trouble
coffee maker and kettle
hot plate or similar for heating up solutions, avail as a second hand store
get one over 150 watts.
paper safe
easels
contact printing frame
Books: Darkroom by Langford
graduated measures 25ml, 100 ml, 1000ml, 2000ml
electrical tape
masking tape
a print dryer
a roller print processor
a black light U/V light box for alt processes

and more....

> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what
> am I missing.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> Thanks;
> Sean
David Nebenzahl - 18 Apr 2005 09:06 GMT
On 4/17/2005 9:52 PM hatchsea@msu.edu spake thus:

> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what
> am I missing.
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> the prints, and I've got a couple months to get the rest of the
> essentials.

You're doing the right thing, gathering the stuff you need from here and
there. You'll find you don't need to go to a photo store for very much of the
stuff you use.

Rather than give you an exhaustive laundry list of every little thing you
might ever need in a darkroom, I'll just list a few things that I consider
basic essentials in addition to what you already have:

o Print tongs: I use the cheap bamboo & rubber ones
o Thermometer. Don't bother with digital anything or a fancy-schmancy dial
type (although I do have one I got at a flea market); the most accurate type
is still the standard glass one. This you should buy at a camera place.
o Timer: you'll need one for your enlarger to time your prints, and another
for film development. For the latter, any cheap little digital job will do.
o Safelight: if nothing else, you can actually use red christmas tree lights
for making (black & white) prints. Or get a used photo safelight cheap.
Remember: no safelight for film (unless you're using orthochromatic film,
which you probably aren't).
o Containers: I've been replacing all my PE (polyethylene) bottles with PETE,
which is better for chemicals as it's less porous. In any case, you should be
able to pick up all the containers you need for free. Check your local
recycling center.
o Big tray for washing prints. A dishwashing tray (or larger) will work.
o Funnels; mixing containers; measuring cup, graduated cylinder or other
measuring device.
o Some way to hang film & prints to dry. I have a piece of telephone wire
strung across my bathroom with wooden clothespins.

One thing NOT to get: a film squeegee. Don't let anyone talk you into getting
one of those horrible things!

Signature

"I know I will go to hell, because I pardoned Richard Nixon."

- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by
the late Hunter S. Thompson

Jan T - 18 Apr 2005 19:19 GMT
Sean,

have a look at http://www.darkroomsource.net/ too, looks very informative to
me.

Jan
laura halliday - 19 Apr 2005 00:23 GMT
hatch...@msu.edu  wrote:

> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?;
> in other words, what am I missing.
>
> So far I've got...

Don't forget:

Changing bag. Best photo investment you'll ever make.

Daylight tank. Much easier for roll film.

Books? There are lots. Have a look in the photography
section of any decent bookstore.

Laura Halliday VE7LDH     "Que les nuages soient notre
Grid: CN89mg                    pied a terre..."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W       - Hospital/Shafte
dan.c.quinn@att.net - 19 Apr 2005 23:44 GMT
> Don't forget:
> Changing bag. Best photo investment you'll ever make.

 "Darkroom basics" ? A changing bag?

> Books? There are lots. Have a look in the photography
> section of any decent bookstore.

 Don't pass by the Used Book bookstores.
 I'm a minimalist myself; I don't use tongs
 and process single tray. Dan
laura halliday - 20 Apr 2005 15:48 GMT
dan.c.qu...@att.net wrote:

> "Darkroom basics" ? A changing bag?

If every inquiry was answered as literally as you
seem to be implying here, there would be very little
to talk about.

Others have recommended a changing bag. Why is it
OK for them to do so, but not for me?

Laura Halliday VE7LDH     "Que les nuages soient notre
Grid: CN89mg                    pied a terre..."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W       - Hospital/Shafte
Andy - 20 Apr 2005 11:57 GMT
Hi Sean,

You seem to be well on your way to collecting all the equipment for a
dark room.
However, you don't seem to be considering how you are going to dry the
prints and film once you've processed them. Although you may think you
can just hang them on a line to air dry, in practice this will just
lead to dust and drying streaks. You need to consider getting some sort
of electrical enclosed warm air dryer.

I would syggest you try and get hold of a film dryer first, as dust and
dryiny marks can render part of your processed film unusable.I had one
made by Durst. You can also dry prints in them also.

Hope it helps

Regards

Andy

> What are the minimum requirements for a darkroom?; in other words, what
> am I missing.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> Thanks;
> Sean
Pieter Litchfield - 20 Apr 2005 13:34 GMT
I dry film as follows:

After the final wash, I rinse in "steam distilled" water with a drop of
Photo-Flo.  Note that more Phot-Flo is not better - it will leave a film!  I
never ever touch the wet film with a finger, sponge, or chamois!  Note that
spots and streaks cannot be fixed by a drying cabinet, but rather by good
technique and chemicals.  I then hang the film to dry in my darkroom and
close the door for several hours before returning.  A film drying cabinet is
nice but maybe no absolutely necessary.  If you have a dust-free darkroom
(cleansurfaces, filtered airflow) you can prbably get away without one.  Try
a roll or two to see what happens.

> Hi Sean,
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>> Thanks;
>> Sean
jjs - 20 Apr 2005 13:45 GMT
> Hi Sean,
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> lead to dust and drying streaks. You need to consider getting some sort
> of electrical enclosed warm air dryer.

I, for one, strongly disagree. If he has relatively clean air, then
hang-drying film is just fine. Air drying prints is, too.
Koen - 20 Apr 2005 14:16 GMT
> I, for one, strongly disagree. If he has relatively clean air, then
> hang-drying film is just fine. Air drying prints is, too.
I agree. I hang the film to dry in a clean room. Never had any problems
with dust.

Koen
Nicholas O. Lindan - 20 Apr 2005 15:15 GMT
> What am I missing?
> So far I've got:
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Photo Paper
> The necessary chemicals (I think)

Where to begin .... let me count the items:

Need:

Photo store
Photographic paper
More chemicals (probably)
Safelight(s)
Polycontrast filters
Developing tank (and reel)
Thermometer
Print tongs
Film clips
Dusting brush for negs and lenses
Negative sleeves
Timer, an old GraLab

Scrounged stuff (though photo stuff can work better)
Measuring graduate(s)
Mixing pail
Mixing rod
Storage bottles
Heavy glass 9x12 w/ ground edges/contact print frame

Commodity
Funnel
Towels
Paper towels (& holder is nice)
Black cloth, weatherproofing strip
Garbage pail (use often)
Sponge
Windex
Rubber gloves
Scissors
Mat/utility/Stanley knife
Marks-a-lot, mech. pencil
Radio
Chair/stool
Work table w/waterproof top (kitchen counter top)
2 3x12 mirrors
Sticky tape
Notebook (use often)
Ruler
Sheets of cardboard (back of legal pad ...)
Coat hangers (for wire for dodgers)
Extension cords/outlet strips

Nice to have
Darkroom sink
Floor mats
Paper cutter
Print washer (the type made from a tray, or a siphon)
Lots more trays, deep trays for washing
Even more trays
Multi-reel tanks & reels
Light box
10x loupe (or 4x if medium format)
Paper easel(s) (4-blade adjustable or 'Speed-Eazel')
Paper safe
Office supply type cabinet
Work tables - lots of
Square feet - lots of
Print dryer for fiber base paper
Window screens for drying RC
Air conditioner or air baffle
Space heater
T-Square
Business cards (can get you into places ...)
Flood light or two on light stands

For Christmas
Dry mount press
Fletcher-type mat cutter
Framing supplies
New enlarger
New enlarger lens
Bigger darkroom

If you don't keep things reasonable
A new wife (or maybe not)

Signature

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix  . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

J. Christopher - 20 Apr 2005 17:53 GMT
>  Polycontrast filters

Does one need filters for each type of variable contrast paper being
used? I’m using Ilford filters with Kodak paper and have been having
problem with contrast. Keep in mind that I have only recently set up my
darkroom so I’m not sure if it is related to the filters or if it is
indicative of a larger problem relating to either my lens or chemistry
[poor temp control posibly].

Joel
Gregory Blank - 20 Apr 2005 18:30 GMT
> >  Polycontrast filters
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Joel

They are somewhat different, if you do a step wedge test
one exposure per filter, and read them on a densitometer
you will see how much. However you certainly can use filters
across makes of paper. Since my contention is that paper speed
and contrast are linked a variance in ideal filtration for a given paper
will be a work around situation.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Pieter Litchfield - 20 Apr 2005 18:46 GMT
I have asked the same question of many people.  The answer I get back is
:they are all the same."  You didn't say what the problem was but it could
also be with the bulb/enlarger or maybe you just need more experience with
the paper.  I use Kodak filters with Ilford papers.

>>  Polycontrast filters
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Joel
Nicholas O. Lindan - 20 Apr 2005 22:06 GMT
> Nicholas O. Lindan wrote:
> >  Polycontrast filters
> I’m using Ilford filters with Kodak paper and have been having
> problem with contrast.

What sort of problems?

FWIW, I normally use Kodak filters with Kodak, Agfa and Ilford
paper.  I haven't noticed any difference when changing to
Ilford filters.

Variable Contrast (VC) papers are not really as advertised,
so don't be surprised if #1 filter shows less contrast
than #1/2 and other peculiarities.

It is instructive to plot the curves for VC paper.  Either
step tablet and densitometer or test strips and a grey scale/
eyeballs works.

You will find:

o The grades are not evenly spaced
o Sometimes they run backwards
o Sometimes they are straight from toe to shoulder
o Sometimes they curve up     "        "         "
o Sometimes they curve down   "        "         "
o Often they have humps and bumps
o There is nothing constant (or logical) about paper speed
 when changing filters except that the very high grades are slower

                *           *            *

For Ilford MG-IV/RC & Kodak filters I found:

Rationalization of paper grades, ~.6 stop/grade

 Filter     -1     0     1.5   2     3     4     5
 Grade       0.0   1.5   2.0   3.0   3.5   4.0   5.0

Exposure required for given density

 1.90 OD     5.4   4.4   3.9   3.7   3.5   3.9   3.9 Stops
  .13 OD     0.5   0.7   0.7   0.8   0.9   2.0   2.5
 Delta       4.9   3.7   3.2   2.9   2.5   1.9   1.4

Exposure correction to hold the same highlight or shadow

 Shadow      0.0  -1.0  -1.5  -1.7  -2.0  -1.5  -1.6
 Highlight   0.0   0.2   0.1   0.3   0.4   1.5   1.9

When changing grades take the value for the new grade
and subtract the value for the old grade to compute
how much to change the exposure.

If the shadows are the important part of the pic then
first find the best shadow exposure and then change grades,
using the shadow correction values above, until the
highlights are at their least objectionable.

If the highlights are the important part then first find
the best highlight exposure and then change grades, using
the highlight correction values above, until the
shadows look about right.

                *           *            *

Example 1: to move from filter 2 to 3, keeping the same
highlights but making the shadows deeper:

 Increase exposure by 0.1 stops (0.4 - 0.3)

Example 2: to move from filter 3 to 4, keeping the same
shadows but making the highlights lighter:

 Decrease exposure by 0.3 stops (-2.0 - -1.7)

Example 3: to move from filter 2 to 1.5, keeping the same
shadows but making the highlights darker:

 Increase exposure by 0.2 stops (-1.5 - -1.7)

--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix  . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Stewy - 24 Apr 2005 10:31 GMT
> > What am I missing?
> > So far I've got:
[quoted text clipped - 84 lines]
> If you don't keep things reasonable
>  A new wife (or maybe not)

Bucket of water if there's no water source in the darkroom.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2009 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.