> I develop all my film at home using a film chaging bag and until now
> I've used the university darkroom to contact print my negs. I've
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Had a look into using local labs to do a contact sheet or 6x4's from
> my negs but they either can't or are charging £6 - £10!
You didn't say whether these are 35mm negs or larger. I'll assume 35mm,
since you referred to getting 6x4 prints, and probably b&w negs, too.
The cheapest and easiest way is to buy a good 8X loupe. One that is
capable of viewing the entire negative at one time (Cheaper loupes can
only view a portion at a time, requiring you to move it around to see
the whole image.) and learn to "read" negatives without having to make
positives. To make viewing easier, buy or make a small lightbox. I
have one the viewing area of which is about the size of a standard 35mm
contact proofer and will hold 6 strips of 6 negs or about 20 or so
mounted slides.
If you want to use a digital camera to "proof", use a lightbox, lay the
negatives on it, cover with a heavy piece of glass to flatten the
negatives, take a picture of all the negatives at your camera's highest
resolution, then "reverse" the image either in camera or with your
image viewer to get positives for viewing.

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Stefan Patric
NoLife Polymath Group
tootek2@yahoo.com
Lloyd Erlick - 16 Apr 2005 20:01 GMT
>...
>If you want to use a digital camera to "proof", use a lightbox, lay the
>negatives on it, cover with a heavy piece of glass to flatten the
>negatives, take a picture of all the negatives at your camera's highest
>resolution, then "reverse" the image either in camera or with your
>image viewer to get positives for viewing.
...
apr1605 from Lloyd Erlick,
An alternative is a flatbed scanner. Depends on whether or not one has
to buy the digital camera for this purpose, and how much one would
have to pay for a scanner (which must be able to scan transparencies,
might need some sort of accessory).
I've scanned my negs on a flatbed since 1996. I put them in the usual
plastic sleeves that are made to be filed in three-ring binders, and
lay them on the scanner glass. I 'invert' them in PhotoShop, and then
pick out the ones I like by copying that section of the scan to an
appropriate directory. Then I can look over my choices, sometimes by
turning them into a slide-show, at leisure.
I like to do it this way because now I never go to the darkroom to do
distasteful chores (I always hated making contact sheets, and it just
became a piled-up impediment). Plus, the clarity of the image on my
monitor is far better than I ever found in a contact frame. I can
choose a portrait very accurately this way, and whenever I go to the
darkroom I know which frame I will work on, and I also know it will
give me a good print. With small contact frames, even with a
magnifying glass, I was never absolutely sure about the content of
faces.
regards,
--le

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________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@heylloyd.com
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
> I develop all my film at home using a film chaging bag and until now
> I've used the university darkroom to contact print my negs. I've
> leaving in a couple of months so I'm going to be stuck.
> Had a look into using local labs to do a contact sheet or 6x4's from
> my negs but they either can't or are charging £6 - £10!
For "£6 - £10" (~$20) or so (~$40) you should be able to buy 3 trays,
a sheet of glass, a bottle of paper developer and a bottle
of fix. I imagine you already have a packet of paper, if
not then add a pack of the cheapest RC paper you can find. Red
Christmas tree bulb will work for a safelight if kept away from
the paper, a white Christmas tree bulb about 3" from the paper
will work for making the exposure (or flip the room light
on for a second).
Place an advert to buy someone's old darkroom equipment.
For £10, if you get lucky, you may be able to pick up
the whole shebang.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Alan Smithee - 15 Apr 2005 23:57 GMT
>> I develop all my film at home using a film chaging bag and until now
>> I've used the university darkroom to contact print my negs. I've
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> For ?10, if you get lucky, you may be able to pick up
> the whole shebang.
A red Christmas tree bulb will work as a safelight?
Stefan Patric - 15 Apr 2005 23:46 GMT
>>> I develop all my film at home using a film chaging bag and until now
>>> I've used the university darkroom to contact print my negs. I've
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> A red Christmas tree bulb will work as a safelight?
Your average GRADED (not multi-contrast) photo paper is orthochromatic,
that is, mostly sensitive only to blue light, and won't "see" red,
which is totally at the opposite end of the spectrum. And while any
dark red light may work in a pinch as a safelight with graded papers, I
wouldn't want to risk an entire box of paper betting that such lights
are "safe." Get a real photo safelight. Some are very small,
particularly the battery powered LED types.

Signature
Stefan Patric
NoLife Polymath Group
tootek2@yahoo.com
John Bartley - 16 Apr 2005 00:28 GMT
>A red Christmas tree bulb will work as a safelight?
>
Yup !!
But...he also said (to keep it in context) :
>if kept away from the paper
cheers

Signature
regards from ::
John Bartley
43 Norway Spruce Street
Stittsville, Ontario
Canada, K2S1P5
( If you slow down it takes longer
- does that apply to life also?)
David W. - 16 Apr 2005 18:50 GMT
John Bartley <oldrad@sympatico.ca> wrote in news:b6Y7e.6604$MZ2.950646
@news20.bellglobal.com:
>>A red Christmas tree bulb will work as a safelight?
>>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> cheers
The sun will also work as a safelight if kept away from the paper. I still
wouldn't use it! :-)