no, it's the time suggested for tratment...

as diluition, i work at the recommended 1+200.
never used distilled water, but i'll give it a chance.

thank you.

regards,

...  Distilled water prefereable.  In fact I often just
use

apr905 from Lloyd Erlick,

Distilled water is very useful in the darkroom. For
final wash of films, it can't be beat. I hang my roll
films in a dust free place, and squirt distilled water
down both sides of each roll. I never use wetting
agent, and I never touch the surfaces of the film while
they are wet (this means no squeegee, no gloves, no
fingers, touch the films). I have never found a problem
from lack of wetting agent. Also, I have never seen a
problem from any sort of mechanical distortion of the
film from differential drying of droplets clinging to
the surfaces vs relatively dry areas of no droplets. By
the time the rolls are dry, they are perfectly uniform
(and clean). Films currently manufactured are well able
to dry uniformly with no problem. In fact, I believe a
wetting agent is incorporated in the coating of modern
films, although it would likely be gone by the time the
film was washed. (I mostly use Kodak film, but I've
never seen a problem from my washing and drying
technique with Agfa or Ilford over the years.)

Wetting agent might be useful for final film wash in
tap water, which might tend to promote water spots on
the dry film (i.e., deposits of minerals from the water
where it had formed droplets on the film and dried).
Distilled water obviates this problem.

The ultimate final wash would probably be to immerse
the film in distilled water while still on the reel.
Two or three changes of distilled water this way and
even the last vestiges of tap water absorbed into the
coating would probably be gone.

regards,
--le

ok, i'll stick to xtol for the next ones. i have it at home, so i can
try. i've read good things also of tmax + delta3200: another
possibility to try.

well, those are pictures taken at a live stage in a jazz club: *thick*
grain was exactly what i wanted, but i haven't printed them yet, then
i don't know how grainy the films are.

i'll let you know --and hope i like it...--.

regards,

 Two more ID-68 formulas from Patrick Dignan:

 ID-68 "Officially Modified": A mix; P and Q - .2 and 5 gr
                                     S. metabisulfite .75 gr.
                                     S. sulfite 100 gr.
 I think it, 'add the sulfite last' as the phenidone will
 more quickly dissolve in acid solution.
                              B mix; Borax and Boric Acid
                                     3 and 3.5 gr.
                                     P. Bromide 1 gr.
 A and B togeather to make 1 liter. Ph, 8.9 .

 ID-68, a one solution mix: Drop the borax and meta. Use 2 gr
 of Boric Acid. I'd think it, 'add save but a pinch' the
 sulfite last.

 Now there are at least three formulas for ID-68. Ilford's
PQ Universal is the exact same as the above 'modified' save
for no metabisulfite.
 The PQ Universal is a D76 and ID11B buffered equivalent. So
what does it all boil down to? So far five D76 or ID-11B or ID
-68 formulas which in use will likely give same results. Dan

i'll try.
thank you.

regards,