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Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
>> Has anyone any experience of push processing Classic Pan 200?
>> What about a two bath developer that's geared slightly towards push
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>I have used Diafine with underwhelming results. The package claims
>it adds 2 stops to the film speed. To my eyes it takes away 1 stop.
Not my experience at all. It gave useful increases in speed at about
2 stops. It can be manipulated in a variety of ways, and does get
affected by overuse and contamination.
I replenised it by adding an ounce for every roll develoed. For the
Abath I found I might need a little more due to carry out. For the B
bath I put the "replenisher" in before returning the working B bath to
its bottle, and discarded th eexcess remining B bath.
>It may be a good choice if you have _overexposed_ the film as it
>limits highlite density - i.e. gives flat highlights.
True, but can be modified.
>I have not
>tried Emofin or Resofine [Stockler's 2-bath] - I imagine they are
>similar to Diafine.
Somewhat similar, but they all have their quirks.
>IMO Xtol is probably the best for pushing. Great developer if I
>could count on it working.
That aspect drove me away.
> If I _had_ to push I would use D76 1:1.
Look for any Phenidone alternative; Microphen, etc.
>If 1-stop under, and my negatives, I would develop the film
>normally and fix it in the printing.
Works most of the time.
Robert Vervoordt, MFA