The formula that you have given is for the much published original formula
for Kodak D-76 which is also used by Ilford for their ID11 developer,
personally I would make Kodak formula D-76d which is chemically closer to
the commercially packaged Kodak developer. This formula maintains a more
stable pH value when the developer is stored for several months. The Kodak
developer is similar to D-76d, except that Borax-decahydrate is replaced
with Borax-pentahydrate and Boric acid-crystalline is replaced with Boric
anhydride which may be for packaging convenience rather than for technical
reasons.

Either formula should keep well for around six months although it may be
worth while to buy a pH meter if you make the original formula.
I have checked out some technical data from the Ilford and Kodak websites
respectively, and the pH values that they give for their developers are as
follows:
Ilford ID11: the pH value at 20 degrees Celsius is 8.60-8.70 with a specific
gravity of 1.095 and ID11R replenisher has a pH of 8.93-9.03 and a specific
gravity of 1.100.
For Kodak D-76 (Kodak publication CIS-61): Stock(Full strength developer) at
25 degrees Celsius, has a pH of 8.5 +/- 0.05 with a specific gravity of
1.003
+/- 0.003.
For developing the T-MAX films, I would use a 1:1 dilution.
Seeing as you only shoot around two rolls of film per month, I would suggest
that you make up 500ml of stock solution at a time, as this would allow you
to use a working strength 1:1 dilution of 500ml for each roll of film that
you process.

...
for developing T-Max 100 and T-Max 400, which one is
better, stock

...

mar2805 from Lloyd Erlick,

I use T-Max 400 (TMY) quite a bit. I prefer diluting
D76 1+1 for developing it.

But really it's a matter of preference based on desired
results. I make portraits, and I like the shadow detail
and the tonal rendition I get from TMY when I develop
it the way I do.

There is a lot more to it than just the dilution of the
developer, of course. It's not really right to simply
tell someone the name of the developer and how I dilute
it. Also, the way the film is exposed is crucial.

TMY is officially rated at an exposure index (EI) of
400. Personally, I do not like the results I get if I
enter 400 into my light meter. I rate TMY at 200. I
think TMY is a superb 200 film that pushes very well to
400. Sometimes we hear the claim that TMY is tolerant
of under-exposure, but I think this only means that it
is a great 200 film and a good 400 film. It has a much
better tolerance of over-exposure. Treating it as if
it's an EI 100 film is not that great an error,
although enlarger exposures can get pretty long.

I also use a pre-soak ("pre-wet", looks funny if it's
spelled "prewet") when I develop TMY. This means I
stand my film in a tank of plain tap water for two to
three minutes before immersing it in the developer.
Many people do not do this, and in fact there might
even be some controversy about it!

I make my developer with distilled water. Many workers
use plain tap water, and Kodak advises us to use tap
water when mixing their prepared developers, such as
D76. I like to know there are not going to be any
surprises. Tap water can have unknown substances in it.
For me it's just a matter of belt plus suspenders.
Also, I tend to develop film in batches of ten rolls (I
mainly use 120 format). One processing error can be
very costly for me. And we all know Murphy's Law would
see to it that the damaged film would be from work with
clients...

I like the diluted form of the developer because I
prefer a slightly long development time. My personality
is such that I detest rushing. In fact, I find
developing film calming and therapeutic. I even do it
in total darkness, in open tanks. Also, longer
development removes the risk of uneven development. And
there is the matter of cost, too; diluted developer
works out cheaper per roll. There may be a better tonal
response, too, but I don't think I can scientifically
make this assertion.

Having prefaced my development regime with all this,
here it is:

-Presoak the film in plain tap water at 21 degrees C,
two to three minutes.

-D76 (I use the commercially prepared version), diluted
1+1 in distilled water, at 21 degrees C, for twelve
minutes.

I have found that this method has worked well enough to
get me close to the 'best' development for any film I
have ever used. As a starting point it has always put
me close enough to fine tune with ease.

The rest of my process is equally weirdo. I do not use
acid in my darkroom, so my stop bath is four changes of
plain tap water at 21C. After fixing and washing, I
hang my rolls up to dry in a dust free place. Before
walking away from it, I sluice down both sides of each
roll with distilled water. A plastic container with a
nipple type closure (as sold with soft drinks) is
perfect for dispensing distilled water. I never use
hardener on my film, and I never squeegee the hanging
rolls. I also never use wetting agent.

I'm sorry I can't comment on the formula. For some
reason I like to mix my own print developer but not my
film developer. However, I have found there is a lot of
virtue in mixing a developer from dry chemicals
directly to a working solution. I do this when I make
prints, and it is very convenient. I particularly like
having no storage of bottles of made-up concentrate.
And bulk quantities of basic chemicals make the unit
cost very low.

regards,
--le

    Ah ! I see. For some reason my newsreader is having difficulty
this morning.

    I suggest the 1:1.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org

  Its a matter of the time. D-76 has been my standard
developer for years, I use it both straight and 1:1. There
is little if any difference in the negatives. However,
developing times for the full strength developer are
somewhat short for many films so I prefer it 1:1. I like
times on the order of 8 to 10 minutes for small tank
developing in order to get better uniformity.
  I use packaged D-76 because its convenient. The packaged
developer is the buffered version I posted in an earlier
reply. This has the advantage of not changing activity with
time which the formula above will do.

[...]

1:1, of course.

Dana

You get a stock (Full strength solution). To make a 1:1 dilution, you simply
take one part of the stock solution , and then add one equal part of water
just before you develop your film(s).

It is probably better to use the developer diluted 1:1 because the longer
developing times allow for closer control of contrast. The diluted developer
must be used once only and then discarded.
This gives you better processing consistency.

The stock solution should last well for around six months.

O.K.?

I like dilute developers and got good results with Tmax films with D76 at 1:1.
I would recommend that you look into using the Tmax developer. Dilute it 1:9
and process at 75F.