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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2005

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How do you focus your enlarger

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Frank Pittel - 20 Mar 2005 06:01 GMT
The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
that I develop with Tmax-rs diluted 1:9 at 75F using my Jobo.

The problem is that when printing at 11x14 or smaller I can't
see any grain to focus on. I normally get around this by finding
a sharp high contrast edge and focus on that. Unfortunatly I can't
always such an edge in my image. I've even tried getting a 25x scope
with no luck.

So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

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-------------------
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Neal - 20 Mar 2005 06:13 GMT
>So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

if there are no edges you can use to focus on, prepare two negative
holders - one with your print that has no sharp edges, and one that
has a nice sharp edge to focus on.

start with your print, and find the size/cropping you want and try to
get a close focus. tighten up the height of the enlarger head, then
switch negs and use the sharp edged negative to find correct focus.
switch back and a test strip should show if you're in focus (should
be).

i am paranoid so i use a grain focuser (i use 35mm) and focus on the
back of a piece of photo paper then take it out for printing.
Herbert Kanner - 20 Mar 2005 20:58 GMT
> >So how do YOU focus your enlarger?
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> i am paranoid so i use a grain focuser (i use 35mm) and focus on the
> back of a piece of photo paper then take it out for printing.

Jobo sells a cute little gadget called a "hocus focus." It just has a
mirror and a frosted screen above the mirror. So, it throws on the
screen the same image that is on the paper. But, instead of seeing the
image by reflected light, one sees it as transmitted, which makes it
much brighter. Also, the gadget can be put anywhere on the image, even
the far corners.  After using it for a few days, I stopped using my
grain focuser; it was quicker to use, and the results were always in
agreement with those of the grain focuser.

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John - 20 Mar 2005 06:22 GMT
>The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
>focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
>So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

    I guess I'm just a little more sensitive to grain. The closest
I've ever gotten to grainless is TMX at EI32 and developed in D23
straight. With that I just found some detail in the image and racked
the lens back and forth until it was the clearest.

    FWIW, I use a Omega (Peak)  Focus Finder. 10X. Enlarging is to
11X14 or smaller.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 06:51 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

First with a good grain focuser, I have the Peak Model 3
most expensive you can move it anywhere on the baseboard.
Second I use the lens wide open without filtration in place.

Basically from there I do as you are doing.

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LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Frank Pittel - 20 Mar 2005 09:16 GMT
: > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
: > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
: >
: > So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

: First with a good grain focuser, I have the Peak Model 3
: most expensive you can move it anywhere on the baseboard.
: Second I use the lens wide open without filtration in place.

: Basically from there I do as you are doing.

Sounds like we're doing the same thing. My "good" focuser is
also made by Peak. I forget the model but it's a 10x focusor.
The 25x focusor was borrowed and I don't remember off hand who
made it. I have seen the model around and have always thought it
was a good focuser.

It could be that my eyes are weak and getting weaker all the time.
A couple of weeks ago I was working on a project (bridges in Chicago)
and had a couple of negatives that I could no focus with a grain focuser.
I could see any grain and I could find an edge to focus on. I finally
ended focusing by eye just looking at the image on my "focusing" paper.

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Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
-------------------
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Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 14:27 GMT
> Sounds like we're doing the same thing. My "good" focuser is
> also made by Peak. I forget the model but it's a 10x focusor.
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> I could see any grain and I could find an edge to focus on. I finally
> ended focusing by eye just looking at the image on my "focusing" paper.

I find the most difficulty is when I am making a large enlargement and
can't reach the controls, it would be nice if I had about four more
inches of finger length but then my knuckles would surely drag on the
ground, since my arms are long but my body is short >:-D

As of right now I am in process of moving to a new house so my
darkroom will be more user friendly, and that means making some
device for focusing remotely from the base board,....I have heard
bicycle chains work well.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

dan.c.quinn@att.net - 20 Mar 2005 23:00 GMT
> It could be that my eyes are weak and getting weaker all
> the time. ... I finally ended focusing by eye just looking
> at the image on my "focusing" paper.

 What you need is a pair of strong reading glasses.
And I'm not pulling anybody's leg. I've a very down to
Earth view of focusing.
 I focus with the lens wide open; DOF is least. With both
eyes open and reading glasses on I adjust the focus. If the
image looks sharp on the "focusing" paper at a very close range,
and then the lens is stopped down, the resulting print will be
sharp at any viewing distance. That includes viewing the
print with strong reading glasses.
 I use my grain focuser for checking the grain. I could use
a better. That Jobo Hocus Focus sounds interesting.          Dan
Keith Tapscott - 20 Mar 2005 13:33 GMT
You could photograph a subject which contains an object such as a signpost
or something similar with your 4x5, process the film sheet ,and then use it
as a focusing negative. All you would need to do is to compose the negative
that you intend to enlarge, replace it with your focusing negative to get
the signpost sharp, and then replace it again with your enlarging negative.
This should ensure that you get a sharply focused print.

> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?
Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 14:15 GMT
> You could photograph a subject which contains an object such as a signpost
> or something similar with your 4x5, process the film sheet ,and then use it
> as a focusing negative. All you would need to do is to compose the negative
> that you intend to enlarge, replace it with your focusing negative to get
> the signpost sharp, and then replace it again with your enlarging negative.
> This should ensure that you get a sharply focused print.

The only problem with that is that some enlargers will shift focus
when you open an close the negative stage when inserting the new
negative and holder.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

John - 21 Mar 2005 04:27 GMT
>The only problem with that is that some enlargers will shift focus
>when you open an close the negative stage when inserting the new
>negative and holder.

    Yep. That's why I love the Durst. No moving parts.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Craig Schroeder - 20 Mar 2005 15:02 GMT
Many years back (20+?), I got a Paterson tall-mount unit and it just
seems to work.  I've never gone looking for an alternative.  I don't
know the magnification but it has certainly been sufficient, even with
TechPan negatives.  The tall mount is awkward, tippy and bulky and
also doesn't work for small print sizes so I've got a small, generic
unit that I owned before the Paterson so I just use that (they agree,
too).  

http://www.patersonphotographic.com/accessories/darkroom%20accs%20index.htm

>So how do YOU focus your enlarger?


Craig Schroeder
craig nospam craigschroeder com

-Eschew Obfuscation-
Scott Schuckert - 20 Mar 2005 18:44 GMT
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

Very carefully?

Seriously, the best device for this is the Peak (formerly Micromega)
critical grain focuser - preferably the model 1.

Beautifully made, precise, easy to use, durable - I've had mine for
decades. NOT cheap - B&H sells them for $230.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&
Q=&sku=40920&is=REG

I see them for under $100 on eBay. If buying used, be aware that the
mirror is a first surface type. While this give a clearer picture, it's
VERY fragile.

Peak also has a model 2 that's $100 cheaper and looks pretty good -
though I haven't tried it.
Francis A. Miniter - 20 Mar 2005 16:42 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

1.     Aperture wide open, no filtration
2.     Choose a contrasty edge to examine
3.     focus
4.     add filtration
5 .    Stop down
6 .    re-focus

Francis A. Miniter
PGG - 20 Mar 2005 18:48 GMT
> 1.     Aperture wide open, no filtration
> 2.     Choose a contrasty edge to examine
> 3.     focus
> 4.     add filtration
> 5 .    Stop down
> 6 .    re-focus

Why refocus after stopping down and adding filtration?
Francis A. Miniter - 22 Mar 2005 05:45 GMT
>>1.     Aperture wide open, no filtration
>>2.     Choose a contrasty edge to examine
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Why refocus after stopping down and adding filtration?

I find there is a focus shift that occurs, especially when filtration is
present.  The phenomenon was described in an in-depth article by Patrick Gainer,
"Hazards of the Grain Focuser", Photo Techniques Magazine, Jan-Feb 1997, p. 41.
 I myself find that some refinement is needed once the filtration is added and
the lens stopped down.

Francis A. Miniter
PGG - 20 Mar 2005 18:50 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> always such an edge in my image. I've even tried getting a 25x scope
> with no luck.

I have the same problem with 4x5 Tmax-100 and an 8x10 print.  If I can't
find an edge, I just focus by moving back-n-forth WITHOUT a focuser.  Then
I stop down to f16
Richard Knoppow - 20 Mar 2005 23:44 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

  I have about the same problem. I use a Bestwell
Micro-Sight focuser with a 25X magnifier on it. These are
not very expensive and work well. I generally focus visually
and then fine focus using the grain focuser. However, I find
the same as you do that on some large, fine grain, negatives
the grain is hard to see and if there is not a sharp edge in
the image somewhere critical focusing is difficult.
Sometimes _lower_ magnification is better because it help
when you are focusing on the _image_ rather than the grain.
For that I have a cheap Mini-Sight focuser with 10X
magnification, made by the same people who make the
Micro-Sight.
  Expensive focusers will not help with this problem
because it is a matter of magnification and they generally
don't have more than 10X. The advantage of the Peak and
similar focusers is that whey work at the edges of the print
as well as the center. The simpler Micro-Sight type works
only at or near the optical center of the image.
  I usually focus at around f/8 t f/11. At this stop one
can still see the optimum focus point well but any focus
shift (enlarging lenses should not have any but they
sometimes do) should be gone. I have both older Schneider
Componons (with chrome barrel) and later Compon-S lenses.
There is noticable bluring from spherical aberration in the
older version of the lens necessitating stopping down a bit
for critical focus. There is virtually none in the S
version.

Signature

---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com

Nicholas O. Lindan - 21 Mar 2005 17:21 GMT
In the mists of time, it was asked:

> > ... > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

I am terminally myopic: 6" is a comfortable viewing
distance.

I find I can focus on detail with bare eyes as well
as I can with a 20x grain magnifier; my eyes and the
magnifier always agree.

If there isn't any fine detail on the negative then the
issue of critical focus is maybe not so critical.

The larger the negative the greater the detail, so lack
of grain to focus on I find to be a non-issue.

I focus at f2.8 and print at ~f8.  I notice no focus
shift with 6-element el-Nikkors and Rodagons.

I use glassless carriers so printing at close to wide-open
results in fuzzy corners.  Also, enlarger alignment becomes
hyper critical at f2.8.  I use a Beseler 45 and micron
alignment adjustments are a lost cause.

I examine my prints for sharpness with a very critical
eye: I spot them using a 30x stereo microscope that moves
about on a long arm.  If you ever have a chance to get hold
of one of these, do so: really, really invisible spotting
is a breeze.  And lots of other uses.

Signature

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix  . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

Peter De Smidt - 21 Mar 2005 17:32 GMT
> I examine my prints for sharpness with a very critical
> eye: I spot them using a 30x stereo microscope that moves
> about on a long arm.  If you ever have a chance to get hold
> of one of these, do so: really, really invisible spotting
> is a breeze.  And lots of other uses.

Hey Nicholas, I've been thinking of getting one of these. Do you have
any brand suggestions?  Do you find the 30x magnification to be optimal?

Regards,
Peter De Smidt
www.desmidt.net
traveler - 21 Mar 2005 08:35 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

When I first began to do my own color printing from 35mm color negs a
number of years ago, I bought a used Beseler 23C with color head. It
has done a good job for me.  It came with several pieces of equipment,
including a grain focuser.  I couldn't figure out how to properly use
the thing and developed the habit of using a magnifying glass, instead.
I search the projected image (without filtration and the enlarger lens
fully open) for a sharp line or object in the neg.  Sometimes this
isn't easy but most of the time it is.  Then I go in and out with the
focusing knob until the object is as sharp as I can make it.  Generally
speaking, the proper setting is pretty obvious, but at times it can
take several minutes before I'm completely satisfied.  Often, the
focusing knob, itself, seems to want to "stop" at the right spot.  This
method is probably a bit more intuitive than most people would like,
but I have a number of interests and do just about everything my own
way (damn the torpedoes). I expect and most of the time achieve pretty
good results.
Michael Gudzinowicz - 22 Mar 2005 02:39 GMT
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> So how do YOU focus your enlarger?

First, adjust the eyepiece focus on the wire, hair, reticle or
grid which is the reference point equivalent to the paper's plane.
The adjustment is critical, and will vary should you remove or
change corrective lenses.

Next, with the lens wide open, focus on an area with some discernible
detail - grain or a sharp edge isn't required. Move your eye from one
side of the eyepiece to the other - back and forth - while adjusting
focus. The image will be focused on the paper's plane when the image
does not move from side-to-side relative to the cross-hair or reticle.
If the image plane lies above or below the reference point, it will
shift position as the reference point is viewed from different angles.

When the image doesn't move and is in focus, readjust the eyepiece's
focus to give the best focus or highest contrast while observing the
negative's aerial image. The adjustment may be unnecessary or slight,
but it will fine tune the initial adjustment. Re-check focus by moving
your eye from side-to-side over the field. The best focus of the aerial
"grain" image should now correspond exactly to the plane defined by
the focuser's reference point.

The parallax method is very accurate for small "grainless"
magnifications, and the effect of very small focus changes is readily
noted while observing the image shift relative to the reference point.
If you are using filters in the image light path, they should be present
while focusing. Using a glass carrier is a good idea - if not - recheck
focus when the head is cool. Also, stop down to f/16 or f/22 for optimal
corner sharpness (4x5 format).
John - 22 Mar 2005 03:51 GMT
    Welcome back !

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email
John - 22 Mar 2005 03:56 GMT
> Using a glass carrier is a good idea

    As you know, I use 5X7 sheet film for some of my work. How
important is the top glass ? I found that the Durst 138 didn't have a
5X7 carrier. I made one from some birch and a piece of Denglas
(http://www.denglas.com/). FWIW, my sheet film (TXP) is usually quite
flat anyway since I don't use a hardener in my films fixer.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Michael Gudzinowicz - 23 Mar 2005 06:20 GMT
>>Using a glass carrier is a good idea
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> (http://www.denglas.com/). FWIW, my sheet film (TXP) is usually quite
> flat anyway since I don't use a hardener in my films fixer.

<pre>
Hi John!

The easy answer is that the top glass is important when you need it.

Frequently, 35mm and roll film are curved with the emulsion toward the
inside of the curve. If exposed to heat for some time, the curve will
increase due to emulsion dehydration. At large magnifications (16X),
the total depth of field at the carrier for a good APO lens used at
f/5.6 will be less than 0.1 mm. Maintaining that sort of tolerance
over the entire frame usually requires a two sheet glass carrier,
though one sheet above the negative is also common. The single sheet
works to counteract the curvature if the lower frame forces the
negative's edges against the glass (some frames are "loose").

Sheet film is different in that it ends to sag in a glassless carrier,
and of course, the required tolerances differ. The sag can be checked
simply by placing a straight-edge from corner to corner across the
film supported by the lower half of the carrier. Glass under the film
solves that problem. However, the film border should be pressed into
contact with the glass. This morning I checked some old 4x5 negs, and
though they appear flat when resting on the glass, a corner or part of
the border often had a space under it. A glassless top frame may
correct the problem, but don't assume that is the case - check it -
and check for heat induced focus shifts (leave the head on and check
focus accuracy over time via the parallax method without touching
anything). Dropping a second sheet of glass onto the film solves
planarity problems.

Years ago there was a detailed discussion of APO / non-APO lens
sharpness for 4x5. A glass carrier allows one to get very sharp corner
images from APO lenses at f/11. I think Barry Sherman confirmed my old
tests, and he could see repeatable differences even between 4x5 APO
lenses when the system is optimized (flat film and aligned enlarger).
I also remember Bob Solomon at a camera expo ordering a customer to
get a glass carrier for his enlarger before Bob would sell him an APO
Rodogon for 4x5 - good advice. The glass carrier also helps less
aspiring lenses, and I've seen marked improvements in B&W corner
sharpness ("microcontrast") from Tessar designs, though they need to
be stopped down more (f/22) to get the off-axis abbe rations under
control.

Another aspect is enlarger alignment, which also must be within the
tolerance for film flatness. I've pasted in a couple of tables to
illustrate where and when one is likely to run into problems, or
shall we say, where there's room for improvement in acceptable work.

The simple macro formulas:

Depth of field at the negative carrier:

DOF = 2 * C * f * (M + 1)/(M * M)

where D is the total depth of field (two-way), c is the circle of
confusion permitted on the paper, f is the marked lens f/stop and M is
the magnification. Usually DOF at the carrier is a relatively small
distance, and decreases with magnification.

Depth of focus at the easel:

D = 2 * C * f * (M + 1)

where D is the total depth, c is the circle of confusion
permitted on the paper, f is the marked lens f/stop and M is
the magnification.

Depth of field at the negative carrier (mm)

COC = 0.25 mm
                                f/stop
        2.8     4       5.6     8       11      16      22
Magn.
2       0.525   0.750   1.050   1.500   2.063   3.000   4.125
4       0.219   0.313   0.438   0.625   0.859   1.250   1.719
6       0.136   0.194   0.272   0.389   0.535   0.778   1.069
8       0.098   0.141   0.197   0.281   0.387   0.563   0.773
10      0.077   0.110   0.154   0.220   0.303   0.440   0.605
12      0.063   0.090   0.126   0.181   0.248   0.361   0.497
14      0.054   0.077   0.107   0.153   0.210   0.306   0.421
16      0.046   0.066   0.093   0.133   0.183   0.266   0.365
18      0.041   0.059   0.082   0.117   0.161   0.235   0.323
20      0.037   0.053   0.074   0.105   0.144   0.210   0.289

COC = 0.125
                                f/stop
        2.8     4       5.6     8       11      16      22
Magn.
2       0.263   0.375   0.525   0.750   1.031   1.500   2.063
4       0.109   0.156   0.219   0.313   0.430   0.625   0.859
6       0.068   0.097   0.136   0.194   0.267   0.389   0.535
8       0.049   0.070   0.098   0.141   0.193   0.281   0.387
10      0.039   0.055   0.077   0.110   0.151   0.220   0.303
12      0.032   0.045   0.063   0.090   0.124   0.181   0.248
14      0.027   0.038   0.054   0.077   0.105   0.153   0.210
16      0.023   0.033   0.046   0.066   0.091   0.133   0.183
18      0.021   0.029   0.041   0.059   0.081   0.117   0.161
20      0.018   0.026   0.037   0.053   0.072   0.105   0.144

Depth of focus at the easel (mm)

COC = 0.25
                                f/stop
        2.8     4       5.6     8       11      16      22
Magn.
2       2.1     3.0     4.2     6.0     8.3     12.0    16.5
4       3.5     5.0     7.0     10.0    13.8    20.0    27.5
6       4.9     7.0     9.8     14.0    19.3    28.0    38.5
8       6.3     9.0     12.6    18.0    24.8    36.0    49.5
10      7.7     11.0    15.4    22.0    30.3    44.0    60.5
12      9.1     13.0    18.2    26.0    35.8    52.0    71.5
14      10.5    15.0    21.0    30.0    41.3    60.0    82.5
16      11.9    17.0    23.8    34.0    46.8    68.0    93.5
18      13.3    19.0    26.6    38.0    52.3    76.0    104.5
20      14.7    21.0    29.4    42.0    57.8    84.0    115.5

COC = 0.125
                                f/stop
        2.8     4       5.6     8       11      16      22
Magn.
2       1.1     1.5     2.1     3.0     4.1     6.0     8.3
4       1.8     2.5     3.5     5.0     6.9     10.0    13.8
6       2.5     3.5     4.9     7.0     9.6     14.0    19.3
8       3.2     4.5     6.3     9.0     12.4    18.0    24.8
10      3.9     5.5     7.7     11.0    15.1    22.0    30.3
12      4.6     6.5     9.1     13.0    17.9    26.0    35.8
14      5.3     7.5     10.5    15.0    20.6    30.0    41.3
16      6.0     8.5     11.9    17.0    23.4    34.0    46.8
18      6.7     9.5     13.3    19.0    26.1    38.0    52.3
20      7.4     10.5    14.7    21.0    28.9    42.0    57.8

Note that paper thickness and other concerns at the easel
plane are not very important, since one can stop down at low
magnifications without noticeable losses to diffraction. Some
of the values in the table are not practical (large magnification
and small aperture) since the effective f-stop is in a range
where diffraction will degrade performance.

(effective f/stop = marked f/stop * (M + 1)}

Now to get back to your question, for a critical 4X print from 5x7
exposed at f/16, you are permitted a total of 0.625 mm of slop in
focusing which includes film flatness and alignment of the lens axis
perpendicular to the film plane. My woodworking skills aren't that
bad, but I'd take a hard look at the birch carrier and its planarity.
Consider using 1/8" aluminum with studs to align two sheets of good
glass dropped on top.
</pre>
Francis A. Miniter - 22 Mar 2005 05:46 GMT
>> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain
>> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> focus when the head is cool. Also, stop down to f/16 or f/22 for optimal
> corner sharpness (4x5 format).

AND ANOTHER WELCOME BACK!

Francis A. Miniter
 
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