Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2005
How do you focus your enlarger
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Frank Pittel - 20 Mar 2005 06:01 GMT The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 that I develop with Tmax-rs diluted 1:9 at 75F using my Jobo.
The problem is that when printing at 11x14 or smaller I can't see any grain to focus on. I normally get around this by finding a sharp high contrast edge and focus on that. Unfortunatly I can't always such an edge in my image. I've even tried getting a 25x scope with no luck.
So how do YOU focus your enlarger?
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Neal - 20 Mar 2005 06:13 GMT >So how do YOU focus your enlarger? if there are no edges you can use to focus on, prepare two negative holders - one with your print that has no sharp edges, and one that has a nice sharp edge to focus on.
start with your print, and find the size/cropping you want and try to get a close focus. tighten up the height of the enlarger head, then switch negs and use the sharp edged negative to find correct focus. switch back and a test strip should show if you're in focus (should be).
i am paranoid so i use a grain focuser (i use 35mm) and focus on the back of a piece of photo paper then take it out for printing.
Herbert Kanner - 20 Mar 2005 20:58 GMT > >So how do YOU focus your enlarger? > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > i am paranoid so i use a grain focuser (i use 35mm) and focus on the > back of a piece of photo paper then take it out for printing. Jobo sells a cute little gadget called a "hocus focus." It just has a mirror and a frosted screen above the mirror. So, it throws on the screen the same image that is on the paper. But, instead of seeing the image by reflected light, one sees it as transmitted, which makes it much brighter. Also, the gadget can be put anywhere on the image, even the far corners. After using it for a few days, I stopped using my grain focuser; it was quicker to use, and the results were always in agreement with those of the grain focuser.
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John - 20 Mar 2005 06:22 GMT >The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain >focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >So how do YOU focus your enlarger? I guess I'm just a little more sensitive to grain. The closest I've ever gotten to grainless is TMX at EI32 and developed in D23 straight. With that I just found some detail in the image and racked the lens back and forth until it was the clearest.
FWIW, I use a Omega (Peak) Focus Finder. 10X. Enlarging is to 11X14 or smaller.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 06:51 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? First with a good grain focuser, I have the Peak Model 3 most expensive you can move it anywhere on the baseboard. Second I use the lens wide open without filtration in place.
Basically from there I do as you are doing.
 Signature LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918
Frank Pittel - 20 Mar 2005 09:16 GMT : > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain : > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] : > : > So how do YOU focus your enlarger?
: First with a good grain focuser, I have the Peak Model 3 : most expensive you can move it anywhere on the baseboard. : Second I use the lens wide open without filtration in place.
: Basically from there I do as you are doing. Sounds like we're doing the same thing. My "good" focuser is also made by Peak. I forget the model but it's a 10x focusor. The 25x focusor was borrowed and I don't remember off hand who made it. I have seen the model around and have always thought it was a good focuser.
It could be that my eyes are weak and getting weaker all the time. A couple of weeks ago I was working on a project (bridges in Chicago) and had a couple of negatives that I could no focus with a grain focuser. I could see any grain and I could find an edge to focus on. I finally ended focusing by eye just looking at the image on my "focusing" paper.
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Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 14:27 GMT > Sounds like we're doing the same thing. My "good" focuser is > also made by Peak. I forget the model but it's a 10x focusor. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I could see any grain and I could find an edge to focus on. I finally > ended focusing by eye just looking at the image on my "focusing" paper. I find the most difficulty is when I am making a large enlargement and can't reach the controls, it would be nice if I had about four more inches of finger length but then my knuckles would surely drag on the ground, since my arms are long but my body is short >:-D
As of right now I am in process of moving to a new house so my darkroom will be more user friendly, and that means making some device for focusing remotely from the base board,....I have heard bicycle chains work well.
 Signature LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918
dan.c.quinn@att.net - 20 Mar 2005 23:00 GMT > It could be that my eyes are weak and getting weaker all > the time. ... I finally ended focusing by eye just looking > at the image on my "focusing" paper. What you need is a pair of strong reading glasses. And I'm not pulling anybody's leg. I've a very down to Earth view of focusing. I focus with the lens wide open; DOF is least. With both eyes open and reading glasses on I adjust the focus. If the image looks sharp on the "focusing" paper at a very close range, and then the lens is stopped down, the resulting print will be sharp at any viewing distance. That includes viewing the print with strong reading glasses. I use my grain focuser for checking the grain. I could use a better. That Jobo Hocus Focus sounds interesting. Dan
Keith Tapscott - 20 Mar 2005 13:33 GMT You could photograph a subject which contains an object such as a signpost or something similar with your 4x5, process the film sheet ,and then use it as a focusing negative. All you would need to do is to compose the negative that you intend to enlarge, replace it with your focusing negative to get the signpost sharp, and then replace it again with your enlarging negative. This should ensure that you get a sharply focused print.
> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? Gregory Blank - 20 Mar 2005 14:15 GMT > You could photograph a subject which contains an object such as a signpost > or something similar with your 4x5, process the film sheet ,and then use it > as a focusing negative. All you would need to do is to compose the negative > that you intend to enlarge, replace it with your focusing negative to get > the signpost sharp, and then replace it again with your enlarging negative. > This should ensure that you get a sharply focused print. The only problem with that is that some enlargers will shift focus when you open an close the negative stage when inserting the new negative and holder.
 Signature LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank
"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918
John - 21 Mar 2005 04:27 GMT >The only problem with that is that some enlargers will shift focus >when you open an close the negative stage when inserting the new >negative and holder. Yep. That's why I love the Durst. No moving parts.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Craig Schroeder - 20 Mar 2005 15:02 GMT Many years back (20+?), I got a Paterson tall-mount unit and it just seems to work. I've never gone looking for an alternative. I don't know the magnification but it has certainly been sufficient, even with TechPan negatives. The tall mount is awkward, tippy and bulky and also doesn't work for small print sizes so I've got a small, generic unit that I owned before the Paterson so I just use that (they agree, too).
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/accessories/darkroom%20accs%20index.htm
>So how do YOU focus your enlarger? Craig Schroeder craig nospam craigschroeder com
-Eschew Obfuscation-
Scott Schuckert - 20 Mar 2005 18:44 GMT > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? Very carefully?
Seriously, the best device for this is the Peak (formerly Micromega) critical grain focuser - preferably the model 1.
Beautifully made, precise, easy to use, durable - I've had mine for decades. NOT cheap - B&H sells them for $230.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details& Q=&sku=40920&is=REG
I see them for under $100 on eBay. If buying used, be aware that the mirror is a first surface type. While this give a clearer picture, it's VERY fragile.
Peak also has a model 2 that's $100 cheaper and looks pretty good - though I haven't tried it.
Francis A. Miniter - 20 Mar 2005 16:42 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? 1. Aperture wide open, no filtration 2. Choose a contrasty edge to examine 3. focus 4. add filtration 5 . Stop down 6 . re-focus
Francis A. Miniter
PGG - 20 Mar 2005 18:48 GMT > 1. Aperture wide open, no filtration > 2. Choose a contrasty edge to examine > 3. focus > 4. add filtration > 5 . Stop down > 6 . re-focus Why refocus after stopping down and adding filtration?
Francis A. Miniter - 22 Mar 2005 05:45 GMT >>1. Aperture wide open, no filtration >>2. Choose a contrasty edge to examine [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Why refocus after stopping down and adding filtration? I find there is a focus shift that occurs, especially when filtration is present. The phenomenon was described in an in-depth article by Patrick Gainer, "Hazards of the Grain Focuser", Photo Techniques Magazine, Jan-Feb 1997, p. 41. I myself find that some refinement is needed once the filtration is added and the lens stopped down.
Francis A. Miniter
PGG - 20 Mar 2005 18:50 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > always such an edge in my image. I've even tried getting a 25x scope > with no luck. I have the same problem with 4x5 Tmax-100 and an 8x10 print. If I can't find an edge, I just focus by moving back-n-forth WITHOUT a focuser. Then I stop down to f16
Richard Knoppow - 20 Mar 2005 23:44 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? I have about the same problem. I use a Bestwell Micro-Sight focuser with a 25X magnifier on it. These are not very expensive and work well. I generally focus visually and then fine focus using the grain focuser. However, I find the same as you do that on some large, fine grain, negatives the grain is hard to see and if there is not a sharp edge in the image somewhere critical focusing is difficult. Sometimes _lower_ magnification is better because it help when you are focusing on the _image_ rather than the grain. For that I have a cheap Mini-Sight focuser with 10X magnification, made by the same people who make the Micro-Sight. Expensive focusers will not help with this problem because it is a matter of magnification and they generally don't have more than 10X. The advantage of the Peak and similar focusers is that whey work at the edges of the print as well as the center. The simpler Micro-Sight type works only at or near the optical center of the image. I usually focus at around f/8 t f/11. At this stop one can still see the optimum focus point well but any focus shift (enlarging lenses should not have any but they sometimes do) should be gone. I have both older Schneider Componons (with chrome barrel) and later Compon-S lenses. There is noticable bluring from spherical aberration in the older version of the lens necessitating stopping down a bit for critical focus. There is virtually none in the S version.
 Signature --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@ix.netcom.com
Nicholas O. Lindan - 21 Mar 2005 17:21 GMT In the mists of time, it was asked:
> > ... > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? I am terminally myopic: 6" is a comfortable viewing distance.
I find I can focus on detail with bare eyes as well as I can with a 20x grain magnifier; my eyes and the magnifier always agree.
If there isn't any fine detail on the negative then the issue of critical focus is maybe not so critical.
The larger the negative the greater the detail, so lack of grain to focus on I find to be a non-issue.
I focus at f2.8 and print at ~f8. I notice no focus shift with 6-element el-Nikkors and Rodagons.
I use glassless carriers so printing at close to wide-open results in fuzzy corners. Also, enlarger alignment becomes hyper critical at f2.8. I use a Beseler 45 and micron alignment adjustments are a lost cause.
I examine my prints for sharpness with a very critical eye: I spot them using a 30x stereo microscope that moves about on a long arm. If you ever have a chance to get hold of one of these, do so: really, really invisible spotting is a breeze. And lots of other uses.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix . netcom . com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Peter De Smidt - 21 Mar 2005 17:32 GMT > I examine my prints for sharpness with a very critical > eye: I spot them using a 30x stereo microscope that moves > about on a long arm. If you ever have a chance to get hold > of one of these, do so: really, really invisible spotting > is a breeze. And lots of other uses. Hey Nicholas, I've been thinking of getting one of these. Do you have any brand suggestions? Do you find the 30x magnification to be optimal?
Regards, Peter De Smidt www.desmidt.net
traveler - 21 Mar 2005 08:35 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? When I first began to do my own color printing from 35mm color negs a number of years ago, I bought a used Beseler 23C with color head. It has done a good job for me. It came with several pieces of equipment, including a grain focuser. I couldn't figure out how to properly use the thing and developed the habit of using a magnifying glass, instead. I search the projected image (without filtration and the enlarger lens fully open) for a sharp line or object in the neg. Sometimes this isn't easy but most of the time it is. Then I go in and out with the focusing knob until the object is as sharp as I can make it. Generally speaking, the proper setting is pretty obvious, but at times it can take several minutes before I'm completely satisfied. Often, the focusing knob, itself, seems to want to "stop" at the right spot. This method is probably a bit more intuitive than most people would like, but I have a number of interests and do just about everything my own way (damn the torpedoes). I expect and most of the time achieve pretty good results.
Michael Gudzinowicz - 22 Mar 2005 02:39 GMT > The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain > focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > So how do YOU focus your enlarger? First, adjust the eyepiece focus on the wire, hair, reticle or grid which is the reference point equivalent to the paper's plane. The adjustment is critical, and will vary should you remove or change corrective lenses.
Next, with the lens wide open, focus on an area with some discernible detail - grain or a sharp edge isn't required. Move your eye from one side of the eyepiece to the other - back and forth - while adjusting focus. The image will be focused on the paper's plane when the image does not move from side-to-side relative to the cross-hair or reticle. If the image plane lies above or below the reference point, it will shift position as the reference point is viewed from different angles.
When the image doesn't move and is in focus, readjust the eyepiece's focus to give the best focus or highest contrast while observing the negative's aerial image. The adjustment may be unnecessary or slight, but it will fine tune the initial adjustment. Re-check focus by moving your eye from side-to-side over the field. The best focus of the aerial "grain" image should now correspond exactly to the plane defined by the focuser's reference point.
The parallax method is very accurate for small "grainless" magnifications, and the effect of very small focus changes is readily noted while observing the image shift relative to the reference point. If you are using filters in the image light path, they should be present while focusing. Using a glass carrier is a good idea - if not - recheck focus when the head is cool. Also, stop down to f/16 or f/22 for optimal corner sharpness (4x5 format).
John - 22 Mar 2005 03:51 GMT Welcome back !
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email
John - 22 Mar 2005 03:56 GMT > Using a glass carrier is a good idea As you know, I use 5X7 sheet film for some of my work. How important is the top glass ? I found that the Durst 138 didn't have a 5X7 carrier. I made one from some birch and a piece of Denglas (http://www.denglas.com/). FWIW, my sheet film (TXP) is usually quite flat anyway since I don't use a hardener in my films fixer.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Michael Gudzinowicz - 23 Mar 2005 06:20 GMT >>Using a glass carrier is a good idea > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > (http://www.denglas.com/). FWIW, my sheet film (TXP) is usually quite > flat anyway since I don't use a hardener in my films fixer. <pre> Hi John!
The easy answer is that the top glass is important when you need it.
Frequently, 35mm and roll film are curved with the emulsion toward the inside of the curve. If exposed to heat for some time, the curve will increase due to emulsion dehydration. At large magnifications (16X), the total depth of field at the carrier for a good APO lens used at f/5.6 will be less than 0.1 mm. Maintaining that sort of tolerance over the entire frame usually requires a two sheet glass carrier, though one sheet above the negative is also common. The single sheet works to counteract the curvature if the lower frame forces the negative's edges against the glass (some frames are "loose").
Sheet film is different in that it ends to sag in a glassless carrier, and of course, the required tolerances differ. The sag can be checked simply by placing a straight-edge from corner to corner across the film supported by the lower half of the carrier. Glass under the film solves that problem. However, the film border should be pressed into contact with the glass. This morning I checked some old 4x5 negs, and though they appear flat when resting on the glass, a corner or part of the border often had a space under it. A glassless top frame may correct the problem, but don't assume that is the case - check it - and check for heat induced focus shifts (leave the head on and check focus accuracy over time via the parallax method without touching anything). Dropping a second sheet of glass onto the film solves planarity problems.
Years ago there was a detailed discussion of APO / non-APO lens sharpness for 4x5. A glass carrier allows one to get very sharp corner images from APO lenses at f/11. I think Barry Sherman confirmed my old tests, and he could see repeatable differences even between 4x5 APO lenses when the system is optimized (flat film and aligned enlarger). I also remember Bob Solomon at a camera expo ordering a customer to get a glass carrier for his enlarger before Bob would sell him an APO Rodogon for 4x5 - good advice. The glass carrier also helps less aspiring lenses, and I've seen marked improvements in B&W corner sharpness ("microcontrast") from Tessar designs, though they need to be stopped down more (f/22) to get the off-axis abbe rations under control.
Another aspect is enlarger alignment, which also must be within the tolerance for film flatness. I've pasted in a couple of tables to illustrate where and when one is likely to run into problems, or shall we say, where there's room for improvement in acceptable work.
The simple macro formulas:
Depth of field at the negative carrier:
DOF = 2 * C * f * (M + 1)/(M * M)
where D is the total depth of field (two-way), c is the circle of confusion permitted on the paper, f is the marked lens f/stop and M is the magnification. Usually DOF at the carrier is a relatively small distance, and decreases with magnification.
Depth of focus at the easel:
D = 2 * C * f * (M + 1)
where D is the total depth, c is the circle of confusion permitted on the paper, f is the marked lens f/stop and M is the magnification.
Depth of field at the negative carrier (mm)
COC = 0.25 mm f/stop 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 Magn. 2 0.525 0.750 1.050 1.500 2.063 3.000 4.125 4 0.219 0.313 0.438 0.625 0.859 1.250 1.719 6 0.136 0.194 0.272 0.389 0.535 0.778 1.069 8 0.098 0.141 0.197 0.281 0.387 0.563 0.773 10 0.077 0.110 0.154 0.220 0.303 0.440 0.605 12 0.063 0.090 0.126 0.181 0.248 0.361 0.497 14 0.054 0.077 0.107 0.153 0.210 0.306 0.421 16 0.046 0.066 0.093 0.133 0.183 0.266 0.365 18 0.041 0.059 0.082 0.117 0.161 0.235 0.323 20 0.037 0.053 0.074 0.105 0.144 0.210 0.289
COC = 0.125 f/stop 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 Magn. 2 0.263 0.375 0.525 0.750 1.031 1.500 2.063 4 0.109 0.156 0.219 0.313 0.430 0.625 0.859 6 0.068 0.097 0.136 0.194 0.267 0.389 0.535 8 0.049 0.070 0.098 0.141 0.193 0.281 0.387 10 0.039 0.055 0.077 0.110 0.151 0.220 0.303 12 0.032 0.045 0.063 0.090 0.124 0.181 0.248 14 0.027 0.038 0.054 0.077 0.105 0.153 0.210 16 0.023 0.033 0.046 0.066 0.091 0.133 0.183 18 0.021 0.029 0.041 0.059 0.081 0.117 0.161 20 0.018 0.026 0.037 0.053 0.072 0.105 0.144
Depth of focus at the easel (mm)
COC = 0.25 f/stop 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 Magn. 2 2.1 3.0 4.2 6.0 8.3 12.0 16.5 4 3.5 5.0 7.0 10.0 13.8 20.0 27.5 6 4.9 7.0 9.8 14.0 19.3 28.0 38.5 8 6.3 9.0 12.6 18.0 24.8 36.0 49.5 10 7.7 11.0 15.4 22.0 30.3 44.0 60.5 12 9.1 13.0 18.2 26.0 35.8 52.0 71.5 14 10.5 15.0 21.0 30.0 41.3 60.0 82.5 16 11.9 17.0 23.8 34.0 46.8 68.0 93.5 18 13.3 19.0 26.6 38.0 52.3 76.0 104.5 20 14.7 21.0 29.4 42.0 57.8 84.0 115.5
COC = 0.125 f/stop 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22 Magn. 2 1.1 1.5 2.1 3.0 4.1 6.0 8.3 4 1.8 2.5 3.5 5.0 6.9 10.0 13.8 6 2.5 3.5 4.9 7.0 9.6 14.0 19.3 8 3.2 4.5 6.3 9.0 12.4 18.0 24.8 10 3.9 5.5 7.7 11.0 15.1 22.0 30.3 12 4.6 6.5 9.1 13.0 17.9 26.0 35.8 14 5.3 7.5 10.5 15.0 20.6 30.0 41.3 16 6.0 8.5 11.9 17.0 23.4 34.0 46.8 18 6.7 9.5 13.3 19.0 26.1 38.0 52.3 20 7.4 10.5 14.7 21.0 28.9 42.0 57.8
Note that paper thickness and other concerns at the easel plane are not very important, since one can stop down at low magnifications without noticeable losses to diffraction. Some of the values in the table are not practical (large magnification and small aperture) since the effective f-stop is in a range where diffraction will degrade performance.
(effective f/stop = marked f/stop * (M + 1)}
Now to get back to your question, for a critical 4X print from 5x7 exposed at f/16, you are permitted a total of 0.625 mm of slop in focusing which includes film flatness and alignment of the lens axis perpendicular to the film plane. My woodworking skills aren't that bad, but I'd take a hard look at the birch carrier and its planarity. Consider using 1/8" aluminum with studs to align two sheets of good glass dropped on top. </pre>
Francis A. Miniter - 22 Mar 2005 05:46 GMT >> The reason I ask is that I'm having trouble with my grain >> focuser. As many people know I use 4x5 and shoot Tmax-100 [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > focus when the head is cool. Also, stop down to f/16 or f/22 for optimal > corner sharpness (4x5 format). AND ANOTHER WELCOME BACK!
Francis A. Miniter
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