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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / March 2005

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New Darkroom

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Robert Simpson - 18 Mar 2005 17:57 GMT
After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
a lot of medium format with the new setup.

Here's a pic, comments welcomed:

http://www.pbase.com/riceowl/image/40862333/medium
Tom Phillips - 18 Mar 2005 22:55 GMT
> After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
> in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> http://www.pbase.com/riceowl/image/40862333/medium

I would have used flat black tiling and/or paint to
cut down on light reflectivity. But a nice little
space. May not want to over-sensitize the Gralab
prior to processing film. Possibly could add some
fog.
Robert Simpson - 21 Mar 2005 18:06 GMT
: > After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
: > in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
: prior to processing film. Possibly could add some
: fog.

The room can be made completely light tight (it's in a basement with no
windows), so the white ceiling is no problem for film loading and it's a
help when working under safelights.
Tom Phillips - 21 Mar 2005 20:41 GMT
> : > After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new
> one
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> windows), so the white ceiling is no problem for film loading and it's a
> help when working under safelights.

I was referring to the white sink tiling and when you're
processing film. The phosphorescence of a traditional
Gralab timer can be quite bright in a small space.
Robert Simpson - 21 Mar 2005 20:57 GMT
: > : > After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new
: > one
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
: processing film. The phosphorescence of a traditional
: Gralab timer can be quite bright in a small space.

I hadn't thought about that. I usually load the film with my back to the
timer which gives some shielding, but maybe I'll run a test and load one
roll with the timer hidden in a cabinet and one with it on the shelf.
Then I'll compare the density of the film base + fog.
Tom Phillips - 21 Mar 2005 21:14 GMT
> : > : > After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a
> new
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> roll with the timer hidden in a cabinet and one with it on the shelf.
> Then I'll compare the density of the film base + fog.

My habit is to keep the timer covered when the room
lights are on; then when ready to process switch on
the lights just briefly (2-3 sec.) to make it visible
enough to see, but no more. It depends on how close the
film is to the timer, whether you process sheet film
in open trays, etc. But if the timer dial is glaringly
bright with your all-white reflective surfaces, you could
add significant fog...
David Nebenzahl - 21 Mar 2005 23:10 GMT
On 3/21/2005 12:17 PM Tom Phillips spake thus:

>> : I was referring to the white sink tiling and when you're
>> : processing film. The phosphorescence of a traditional
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> bright with your all-white reflective surfaces, you could
> add significant fog...

Hell, I just throw my black changing bag over the damn timer (mine's a Beseler
w/phospohrescent panel). Nary a problem.

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- Former President Gerald Ford to his golf partners, as related by
the late Hunter S. Thompson

Gregory Blank - 21 Mar 2005 22:43 GMT
> I hadn't thought about that. I usually load the film with my back to the
> timer which gives some shielding, but maybe I'll run a test and load one
> roll with the timer hidden in a cabinet and one with it on the shelf.
> Then I'll compare the density of the film base + fog.

I have a digital Gralab for process controls, used to be my
enlarger timer until I got an all in one timer and analyzer.

The Gralab allows you to dim the LED completely black
for a glow in the darktype you could cover it when needed
with a large black cloth or even a photo paper's vinyl bag.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Mark in Maine - 23 Mar 2005 16:04 GMT
>I hadn't thought about that. I usually load the film with my back to the
>timer which gives some shielding, but maybe I'll run a test and load one
>roll with the timer hidden in a cabinet and one with it on the shelf.
>Then I'll compare the density of the film base + fog.

An easy way to test for that would be to take a roll of film, pull out
the first few frames, and leave it on the counter, for - say 5 mins,
then pull out a few more, also for 5 mins, etc until you have the
whole roll out of the cannister, then develop, and see if you can see
a difference between one end of the film and the other - if there is a
difference, then you will be able to figure out about how much time it
takes to fog the film by looking how long down the roll the change
becomes apparant.
Gregory Blank - 19 Mar 2005 01:50 GMT
> After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
> in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> http://www.pbase.com/riceowl/image/40862333/medium

Nice clean working area.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

John - 19 Mar 2005 08:05 GMT
>After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
>in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
>http://www.pbase.com/riceowl/image/40862333/medium

    Nice but needs a bigger enlarger.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.puresilver.org
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Some Dude - 19 Mar 2005 14:33 GMT
Think it looks great. The sink looks great..  Is that, cough, a marble
edge? :)
Or steel?
Some Dude - 19 Mar 2005 14:33 GMT
Think it looks great. The sink looks great..  Is that, cough, a marble
edge? :)
Or steel?
Robert Simpson - 21 Mar 2005 17:55 GMT
: Think it looks great. The sink looks great..  Is that, cough, a marble
: edge? :)
: Or steel?

It's zone VI Formica.
??? - 19 Mar 2005 15:12 GMT
You make me jealous.  I am glad to see you used light paint.  Since the
light energy can be no more than the lamp output, fog is no greater risk
than whatever you put on the bench under the lamp.  Plus, you can see what
you are doing.

A simple addition would be to put a small 45w halogen desklamp by the
enlarger so you can check negs easily.

The addition I would highly suggest is to arrange things so to allow use of
a swivel chair on wheels (office chair).  In my watch shop I have used a set
up for years that allows me to quickly go from my assembly bench, to the
small lathe (for turning balance staffs and such) and to my
polishing/riveting bench all by a single scoot and swivel.  Kind of like a
well designed kitchen.

I used  the same swivel chair concept in my darkroom.  It is also on a
concrete floor.  *Sitting* at the enlarger is much more pleasant than
standing on concrete and/or stooping to check the focus.  My knees don't
ache and I can work there for 4 or 5 hours with pleasure.  I also think it
is easier to focus while viewing the grain focuser because you are in a more
relaxed position.

I don't have a tray sink; I use larger trays as "catch trays" for my
solution trays.  So, everything is at the same level for sitting and I just
scoot from one station to the other.  Paper is on the shelf behind the
enlarger station; one swivel away.  I did run hose from the shop sink in so
I could hook my up my washer.

FWIW, in the basement you have NO vibration concerns.  In fact, my Beseler
45 sits on a 3X8 folding table.  I use a foot switch and there is nothing to
vibrate the enlarger.  I always wondered about these guys who run braces
between the wall and the enlarger.  I have been in many buildings where
doors and music send vibrations through walls much more readily than through
floors.  Instead of increasing the couple, you want to isolate the things
you don't want vibrating.  Of course, this does not matter where earthquake
codes apply.

Signature

Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

> After ten years without a darkroom, I just finished setting up a new one
> in the basement. I've done mainly 35 mm in the past, but I'm planning do
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> http://www.pbase.com/riceowl/image/40862333/medium
Nicholas O. Lindan - 19 Mar 2005 22:22 GMT
> A simple addition would be to put a small 45w halogen desklamp by the
> enlarger so you can check negs easily.

Also nice is to build a small light-box into the countertop: white
plex set into the counter, light bulb in a box beneath.  Make it 8x10
and attach a timer and use it for flashing and contacting.  Someone
famous did this with both red and white bulbs in the box.

> *Sitting* at the enlarger is much more pleasant than
> standing

Only way to go.  If the enlarger bench is dropped to be convenient for
sitting then you also have more headspace for XL columns.

Follow the suggestions in this group and that darkroom will _never_
get finished: which is about par for most darkrooms, as soon as
it is finished you sell the house.

> FWIW, in the basement you have NO vibration concerns.

If semi-trailers go by on the street the ground will shake;
it's the ground shaking that shakes the house.  Guess who
worked in a basement darkroom 20 feet from the federal
highway.

Signature

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
To reply, remove spaces: n o lindan at ix  . netcom . com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

Robert Simpson - 21 Mar 2005 18:00 GMT
: > A simple addition would be to put a small 45w halogen desklamp by the
: > enlarger so you can check negs easily.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
: and attach a timer and use it for flashing and contacting.  Someone
: famous did this with both red and white bulbs in the box.

Actually, I have a light box on the work table on the side opposite the
enlarger. That's where I sort through the negs.
bob - 20 Mar 2005 18:10 GMT
> vibrate the enlarger.  I always wondered about these guys who run braces
> between the wall and the enlarger.  I have been in many buildings where
> doors and music send vibrations through walls much more readily than through
> floors.

I'm sure it depends on the building. In my house, when someone walks
across the floors, they bounce. The walls, however, rest on beams that
rest on piers, making them much more solid than the floors.

When I build my darkroom (getting closer now, the bedrooms are nearly
finished), I'm going re-frame the floor in that area.

Bob
??? - 21 Mar 2005 13:02 GMT
I think here I would look at isolating the enlarger from the floor first.
Since the walls conduct less vibration, I would try making a bench/shelf
that is anchored only to the wall for the enlarger.  You could run diagonals
2X4s from  the outer edge of the bench down to the wall near the floor.

It might be easier than trying to dampen vibrations from other parts of the
house that are traveling through your joists.
Signature

Regards,
Dewey Clark
http://www.historictimekeepers.com
Restorations, Parts for Hamilton M21s, Products for Craftsmen
Makers of Historic Timekeepers Ultrasonic Clock Cleaning Solution

>> vibrate the enlarger.  I always wondered about these guys who run braces
>> between the wall and the enlarger.  I have been in many buildings where
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Bob
bob - 21 Mar 2005 15:36 GMT
> I think here I would look at isolating the enlarger from the floor first.
> Since the walls conduct less vibration, I would try making a bench/shelf
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> It might be easier than trying to dampen vibrations from other parts of the
> house that are traveling through your joists.

Maybe, but the floor slopes and it's underbuilt (used to be a porch at
one point). Taking it out and building a new solid one will be a good
thing. The existing joists are 2x6 oak, 24" OC, with a 16' span (that's
really bad...)

Bob
Wayne - 20 Mar 2005 07:37 GMT
Very nice looking, but I would want the dry side farther from the wet
side--but then I'm messy and splashy.  Mine are in seperate rooms!
Robert Simpson - 21 Mar 2005 18:06 GMT
: Very nice looking, but I would want the dry side farther from the wet
: side--but then I'm messy and splashy.  Mine are in seperate rooms!

That would have been ideal, but the size of the available space pretty
much dictated this design.
Wayne - 23 Mar 2005 06:26 GMT
> : Very nice looking, but I would want the dry side farther from the wet
> : side--but then I'm messy and splashy.  Mine are in seperate rooms!
>
> That would have been ideal, but the size of the available space pretty
> much dictated this design.

I figured as much, from the picture. You gotta do what you gotta do!
I've had full darkrooms in a small bathroom. I'm lucky now to have half
my second floor as a darkroom, though it is a very long walk from
enlarger to the trays...
 
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