Try hypo-clear, or if you have a developed negative you can spare, soak it
in developer with occasional agitation. I'll bet that removes the pink.

A side question - do you use soft water for washing?

To continue I also use Perma Wash after the fact and my water here in KY is
rather hard ( I don't soften)---It's pumped straight out of the Ohio River,
critters and all, belly-up and living!! Adds to the flavor as well as the
bouquet!!!! We get a little something extra in every glass!!
J Burke

Two suggestions:  1)try using either distilled or softened water (add
about 1/2 tsp. of Calgon crystals to your water), and 2)try an
extra-strength mixture of Perma-Wash and give it about double the
recommended time in the Perma Wash.

Three. . .three suggestions (and a fanatical obedience to the Pope),
oops, sorry, wrong sketch.  Anyway, check the pH of your processes.  The
pink comes out better at higher pH.  So you might want to avoid using
hardener in your fixer and/or switch to an alkaline fixer.  Also, make
sure your developer is at least pH 9.

No mention of type of fixer, are you using Rapid Fix and at what dilution?
Are you using it one shot or reusing your fixer.  Will the film clear if you
refix in fresh fixer?

minute (in rapid fix FF2), and washed it in PhotoFlo. The pink coating was
gone

The pink comes out much more easily if the hypo-clear and final wash are
done at 75 degrees.  'Pink Problems' are normally a winter affair.

I use only enough A. Thio. concentrate as will completly clear one
unexposed roll of film. So much silver, so much fixer. Try 20ml of
concentrate in whatever solution volume needed. The greater the
volume the better.  Archival results are more nearly approached.
Give constant agitation and check in dim light after four
minutes. No pink in my Pan F+ and it can be.                        Dan

  I've read through  this rather long thread and still am
not sure of what fixer you are using. Rapid fixer at film
strength should fix out Tri-X and T-Max in five minutes
unless its very exhausted. Make sure you agitate the film
frequently while its fixing.
  The easiest way to test the fixer is to fix out a scrap
of undeveloped film. Soak the film in water for 2 or 3
minutes to swell the gelatin and then fix it in a sample of
the fixing bath. In film strength rapid fixer it should
become visually clear in about 2 minutes. It should be fixed
for 2 to 3 times the clearing time. If the clearing time is
excessive replace the fixer. The reason for the presoak is
that wet film fixes at a different rate from dry film.
  While rapid fixer has a much greater capacity than sodium
thiosulfate fixer I still suggest the use of two successive
fixing baths. This extends the life of the fixer
considerably and insures complete fixing. Note that there
are still insoluble halide or reaction products in the
emulsion even after it have become visually clear, extending
the fixing time by a factor of 2 to 3 times insures that
this material has been reacted into a water soluble form
which will come out in the fixer or wash.
  There are two things that result in a color stain on the
film: one is unfixed halide, the other is residual
sensitizing dye. They look a bit different. Unfixed halide
is turbid, the dye is not. Turbidity (cloudiness) requires
refixing in fresh fixer to get rid of. The sensitizing dye
in T-Max (and maybe Tri-X also) is a sort of pinkish violet
but it is clear. This dye seems to be very persistent and
bonds to something in the emulsion. While Kodak suggests its
from inadequate fixing it seem to persist even when fixing
is carried out well beyond the point of of normal fixing
times. The dye can be gotten rid of by a normal treatment in
a sulfite wash aid such as Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent. KHCA
has several properties that break the chemical bond between
fixer, alum hardener, fixer reaction products, and the
residual dye with the gelatin of the emulsion and the image
silver. To some extent it will compensate for partially
exhausted fixer. With T-Max films the sensitizing dye comes
completely out in a normal 2 to 3 minute treatment in the
wash aid.
  I know from Kodak's published research paper that KHCA
works. I don't know about other wash aides. Kodak's is
designed to produce minimum swelling of the emulsion and to
adjust the pH to a point where washing is rapid but
hardening from alum hardener is not destroyed as it is by a
high pH bath in sodium carbonate or some other alkali. It
also has an ion exchange property not shared by plain alkali
baths. It is this property which is primarily for the very
great acceleration of washing.
  I don't use much Tri-X but use a lot of T-Max. I get
completely clear negatives after using wash aid even when
fixing in sodium thiosulfate fixer.

 Write back and let me know what you find.

Getting rid of the pink the Tony way.

(1) Leave the film in the fixer and make yourself a cup of coffe.

(2) Drink Coffee, go back and agitate film tank.

(3) Leave the film in the fixer and make yourself a sandwich.

(4) Eat sandwich, go back and agitate film tank.

(5) Leave the film in the fixer and walk the dog.

(6) Go back, drain the tank and wash the film for about an hour.

Gauranteed to wor

--
Tony

For what it's worth, I needed a sheet of 4x5 film cleared. I slipped a
sheet of unexposed FP4+ into a "brand new" mix of Ilford Rapid Fixer and
left it there for 30 minutes. The mylar had a pinkish tinge to it even
after a good washing, and now that the sheet has sat on my desk for
about two weeks, the pink tinge is fading away.

cheers