Last May I bought a large bottle of HC 100 concentrate (a 28 oz / 828 ml
bottle, to be precise.) I use it mostly with 120 film, mostly in dilution H,
and I am just now getting down to the last of the concentrate (I mix up a
working solution as needed for each roll.)
For the first few months I left the concentrate in the large bottle, but
then in September rounded up enough small bottles to decant the concentrate
into so it would not be exposed to air.
As I finished off one of those smaller bottles last night I discovered a
thick layer on the bottom ? like something had precipitated out. The
developer was also decidedly thicker and lumpy ? more or less the
consistency of half-set jello, and not the smooth maple syrup consistency it
had when new.
I wound up scraping everything out of the bottle and mixing up a slightly
stronger than usual solution (I usually use 10ml of developer per 600ml H2O
and in this case had about a little over 11 ml / 600). I cut the time a
little and used it with a roll of APX 100, and the results were fine,
perhaps just a tad over developed.
But ? I still have my last 125ml decanted bottle left. I assume it too will
get dark, lumpy, and start to drop precipitate out chemistry.
So what I?m wondering ?
1.. Is they any indicator that will tell me that the HC 110 concentrate is
bad and should not be used?
2.. Any idea what is precipitating out? I assume it needs to get mixed
into the working solution.
3.. The small bottles are filled pretty close to the top, but once opened
it can take several weeks before it?s drained. Even the tightly filled
bottles have darkened. What is the shelf life of HC110 concentrate? I see a
lot of comments that say "lasts indefinitely" ? how long is that?
Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.
- MCC

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Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
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dplotusnotes@yahoo.com - 11 Jan 2005 12:34 GMT
Mark,
Are you still on PDML?
I've a half-bottle of HC-110 concentrate that's been there for > 6
months.
Kodak's statements, as I understand, are that it will be good for 6
months after being opened.
Keeping it in a dark location and minimizing air contact seem to be
important.
HC-110 acts like paper developer. Leave it exposed and it gets dark.
Collin
Mark Cassino - 11 Jan 2005 21:11 GMT
Thanks for the info Collin - I dropped off the PDML a while back. Not enough
hours in the day!
- MCC

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Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
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> Mark,
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> HC-110 acts like paper developer. Leave it exposed and it gets dark.
> Collin
Jim Phelps - 11 Jan 2005 13:03 GMT
> Last May I bought a large bottle of HC 100 concentrate (a 28 oz / 828 ml
> bottle, to be precise.) I use it mostly with 120 film, mostly in dilution
> H, and I am just now getting down to the last of the concentrate (I mix up
> a working solution as needed for each roll.)
{big snip}
Mark,
I have a 1 liter bottle of HC-110 I purchased in Feb 2002. I transferred
the syrup to a 1 liter glass bottle (dark brown) at the time of purchase and
have used approximately 200ml. I always tout the benefits of Tetenal's
Protectan spray, and I always displace the air in the bottle after use with
Protectan. That almost 3 year old bottle is as syrupy and pale yellow as
the day it was purchased. No clouding nor settling. I have noticed when I
pour it, a slight brown stain will form at the site liquid HC-110 being
poured meets liquid HC-110 in the measuring graduate, but never amounts to
much (contact oxidation?).
Protectan is not available in many places, but it's 80-90% Butane/Propane
(according to the MSDS) which is nothing more or less than the gas used to
recharge cigarette lighters (available almost everywhere). I can't tell
people enough how effective the use of Protectan (or cigarette lighter gas)
has been in my experience. I use it on every developer stock I have (color
and B&W) and extend the life of chemistry well into the years when
manufacturers state months for opened containers. Protectan (or the lighter
gas) is available to everyone who wishes to use it. Some other techniques
(such as nitrogen) are a bit problematic for the casual darkroom user. This
stuff isn't!
Some will complain it's dangerous to have something like that in your
house, but to them I say, look in your cupboards. I bet there's more
dangerous things in there! Don't have a gallon of gasoline for the
lawnmower or a propane torch or hairspray or paint thinner? Most aerosols
use propane or butane (or both) for their propellant (just check the
ingredient list on shaving foam sometime). Just use common sense.
Jim
dplotusnotes@yahoo.com - 11 Jan 2005 13:47 GMT
BTW, What format & film are you using?
I took another look @ your site & do enjoy the work.
Collin
Mark Cassino - 12 Jan 2005 19:06 GMT
Hi Collin -
Thanks for the feedback!
I've been shooting mostly 6x7 format. Over the summer I experimented with
several different makes and brands of film, ultimately settling in on
JandC's Classic Pan 200, which was my standard fare for a few months. I've
been using APX 100 since the end of the summer, since CP 200 seems to no
longer be available. I tried several developers but settled in on HC110
for most work, with Rodinal for a few other situations.
The IR shots on my site were done mostly with Kodak's HEI, but I did
experiment with a couple of rolls of Konica's 120 IR film.
Later -
MCC

Signature
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Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
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> BTW, What format & film are you using?
> I took another look @ your site & do enjoy the work.
>
> Collin
dplotusnotes@yahoo.com - 12 Jan 2005 20:45 GMT
A few years ago I fell in love with Fuji Acros.
Yes, it's modest on speed. But the grain structure is outstanding.
My personal preference has always been Plus-X,
but alas I can't get it for 4x5 except in old stock sales. Bummer.
I also use HC-110(b) as my regular developer, though excellent results
have come
from T-Max developer. It does improve Fuji Neopan 400 & 1600 results
nicely.
Maybe I'll come up to Michigan some time. Ohio is just too cloudy.
Collin (cheesehead @ heart) Brendemuehl
Nicholas O. Lindan - 11 Jan 2005 16:59 GMT
> Last May I bought a large bottle of HC 100 [110? ed.]
> last night I discovered a
> thick layer on the bottom – like something had precipitated out. The
> developer was also decidedly thicker and lumpy – more or less the
> consistency of half-set jello, and not the smooth maple syrup consistency it
> had when new.
Something's funny or Kodak has sure changed this goop. I have a 20-year
old bottle of the stuff that still works (I don't like it that much,
as you can guess, 1" left).
--
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
PSsquare - 12 Jan 2005 14:06 GMT
Mark,
Why don't you contact Kodak? I found their service rep's pretty helpful.
You will never know if they can be of some help unless you try. Your
experience sounds completely off the normal for HC110 which I keep in full
strength for several years with no problems. It is my understanding that
HC110 has extremely long life in the concentrate form.
FYI, I transfer a modest amount (70 ml?) of concentrate HC110 to a small
capped squeeze bottle so that I only open the original bottle to oxidation
occasionally. I measure 16.1 ml HC110 from the sqeeze bottle and mix with
water to make 500 ml of developer. I use a 500 ml water botlle for the mix
and throw away after one use. This works well for me.
PSsquare
> Last May I bought a large bottle of HC 100 concentrate (a 28 oz / 828 ml
> bottle, to be precise.) I use it mostly with 120 film, mostly in dilution H,
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>
> - MCC
Mark Cassino - 12 Jan 2005 18:59 GMT
Thanks - I had heard that this stuff lasts a long time, so I was wondering
what was up with my experience. I opened the last 125ml bottle yesterday,
and it looked fine. But, as the developer gets exposed to the air in it,
I'll be interested to see if it changes.
- MCC

Signature
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Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
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> Mark,
>
[quoted text clipped - 57 lines]
>>
>> - MCC
PATRICK GAINER - 15 Jan 2005 18:21 GMT
>Thanks - I had heard that this stuff lasts a long time, so I was wondering
>what was up with my experience. I opened the last 125ml bottle yesterday,
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>
There's not enough air in the bottle to do much more than discolor the
edges. It is, after all, a highly concentrated syrup that contains no
water except what may condense in it when you open the bottle. Try this:
take a piece of film and in roomlight put a drop of HC110 concentrate on
it. See how long it takes to blacken the film. The edges of the drop may
get black because of water from the air, but you will wait til doomsday
(perhaps I exagerate) for anything more to happen. The shelf life has
never been a concern for me. I don't think it has a shelf death. That is
one reason for my dissolving ascorbic acid and phenidone in glycols or
TEA. No water means no oxidation.