Thanks for the confirmation Nick.

For negatives, I made ABS tubes that were of such a size that the tube
is 50% of chemical full while rolling. In other words, the tube is in
two parts, with one half being the negative or paper cannister and the
other, equal sized half holding the chemical. When the two are screwed
together they combine to be half full in total. Should I be safe with
the same volume ratio (50%) for the paper?

I think I can make ABS tubes for quite a bit less than I could buy
them. I think my negative tube cost less than $10.00

speaking of this... Being a re-newbie (i.e., I had been developing quite a
lot when I was about 10-12, using the "eye method" for determining when to
get the paper out of the developer) I'd like to re-skill myself for proper
developing. I have a homemade dip-tray processor coupled with an old
notebook that takes care of the temperature and timing for the processes,
everything is quite fine up to this point.

Now the issue: for the first few times now (I'm 26 now so you can guess the
idle time I had) I just stuck to the values the folk who I bought the
darkroom from used. He gave me a pack of the exact paper he used (Agfa MCP)
and the results were quite consistent... But I'd like to stick to Ilford for
availability and other reasons. However, looking at Ilford's datasheets for
the paper, I find a bit inconsistent information there.

E.g., for the overview of the development process, they state (don't have
the paper handy, so I just guess now) let's say 60s @20C (or was that 22C?)
in developer and then some timings for the stop and fix baths.

BUT - in the exact recommended dev time vs. temperature table - they state
46s at the same temperature. I doubt development stops here, the image still
gains black density over this time. So?

Anyone care to elaborate?

Thanks :)

hehehe - I don't believe in "birthdays" - they just make you older than
you feel :-) .

I've read your articles Lloyd and found them very educational. I
originally found you in a Google search while looking for a source for
photo chemicals in reasonable amounts. I did read the article on "single
tray" development for prints, and just may head that direction. The one
thing that slows me up a bit with this process is the amount of chemical
required. Currently I mix about 2L at one time and use it for a while
(not too long), and I wonder if that would be enough to adequately cover
a 16"x20" print if I do one at a time.

Hmphhh!  I got to your "acid free" article immediately after buying a
jug of Ilford Rapid Fixer and immediately before buying a sepia toning
kit. Just my luck! Oh well, I can always use up what I have and then
change the process later. Good article by the way!

cheers

...For big floppy FB prints use a

jan1105 from Lloyd Erlick,

I'd say use a single tray no matter how many your
darkroom can contain! It's not a second-best technique
for use under duress.

Pitchers or graduates with sealing closures are best.
The working solution container can also be the storage
container. (I only store fixer [two containers] and
selenium toner [one container]). Working single-tray is
very convenient. If you want two or more developers at
hand, or several toners at different temperatures or
concentrations, just keep each one in its own
container, and in its own water bath to regulate the
different desired temperatures. (This is all pretty
close to cost-free, as well.)

As Mike says, large containers are best. I like plastic
jugs with a four inch mouth so it's easy to pour the
solutions back inside. The pouring situation sounds
like a hassle, but it's easy if one places the tray on
a stand of some sort (I used to use a scrap of plywood
standing on bricks, cost zero). The tray can be left
touching the stand next to the mouth of the container
while the far corners are gently lifted. Pouring is
actually a lot easier than writing about it!

For jugs I like the polyethylene containers used for
cat kibble. They're available everywhere (supermarket,
convenience stores) and will hold four liters. Try to
find the ones with a solid closure, some have a funny
flap in the closure to pour out kibble without removing
the lid. The flap could be taped over so the jug is air
tight in storage, if need be. I've found many four inch
lids in the garbage (here we go again ...), so I just
swap lids if I find a new container I like (rather than
buy cat food, one could easily find similar jugs in
restaurant dumpsters (uh oh ...).

If the flat bottom of the tray causes the print to
adhere tenaciously, cut a long narrow strip of thin
plastic sheet, such as from an Ilford internal paper
bag, and lay it across and through the tray (under the
sheet), so the ends are outside the tray. Use one end
or the other to lift an edge or corner of the print to
free it from the tray.

regards,
--le

[My legal staff insist I remind you to ignore anything
I might advise, and to wear steel-soled boots, hand,
eye and face protection, hard hat and full body armour
if you actually try to take anything out of a dumpster.
Remember that the garbage does not belong to you, and
be good at all times, especially to security guards who
are ill-paid.]