You might want to try this technique for which you will need only your
most contrasty (highest magenta) and least contrasty (highest yellow)
filters:
1. With your first sheet of paper, give incremental 3-second exposures
in strips across the whole sheet with the darkest (maximum contrast)
magenta filter you have. Look at the strips, especially at the shadows,
and pick the one that gives you the shadows you want---deep, but with
enough detail.
2. Repeat with second sheet, this time using the least contrasty
(maximum yellow) filter. Evaluate, particularly the highlights, and
choose the best strip.
3. Let's say, for instance, that at f/11, your best high-contrast
exposure was 9 seconds and your best low-contrast exposure was 6
seconds. On your third sheet of paper, give two exposures--- one at 9
seconds with your highest magenta filter and then, without changing
anything except the filter, give another exposure at 6 seconds at full
yellow.
4. After development, you should be very close to what you're looking
for. You'll be close enough to know where you ought to go from there.
If you need more density, but the contrast looks right, then increase
both magenta and yellow exposures proportionally equally. If you need
less density, give proportionally less to each exposure. If it needs to
be more contrasty, but the density is correct, increase the magenta time
by a few seconds; if it needs less contrast, increase the yellow a few
seconds.
If only a specific area needs more or less contrast, you can burn with
the appropriate filter. Alternatively, you can dodge with one or the
other filters during the original exposures. E.g. if 9 sec. Magenta
gives you washed out sky tones in one area, you can either increase
density in that area by burning with both yellow and magenta, or you can
dodge for a couple seconds during the magenta exposure, so that
proportionally, that area gets less magenta and more yellow.
Remember: density changes without contrast changes demands
proportionally equal amounts of both magenta and yellow; density and
contrast changes can be done with either filter using burning or dodging.
Once you experiment a bit with this method, which is called split filter
printing, you'll find that printing becomes almost absurdly easy. It's
one of the great joys of using variable contrast paper. I've been using
it for years, though using a color head to dial in the magenta and yellow.
Larry
>Hi All,
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>thanks for any tips,
>Sreenath
sreenath - 05 Jan 2005 05:55 GMT
Thanks for the detailed message.
I did try similar technique, but by using blue and green filters under
the lens. However, I think the filters were not really steep cutoff in
nature(these are filters for use in front of camera "taking lens". I
bought the 58mm dia filters).
Even with only blue filter exposure, I did not get high contrast
results. I think I will carefully make test strips as you have
suggested and see if I get better results.
I can not use Ilfochrome filters for the split contrast printing
because the enlarger will definitely shake if I attempt to change the
filter in the drawrer above the negative.
thanks,
Sreenath
> You might want to try this technique for which you will need only your
> most contrasty (highest magenta) and least contrasty (highest yellow)
> filters:
>
> 1. With your first sheet of paper, give incremental 3-second exposures
> in strips across the whole sheet with the darkest (maximum contrast)
> magenta filter you have. Look at the strips, especially at the shadows,
> and pick the one that gives you the shadows you want---deep, but with
> enough detail.
>
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> for. You'll be close enough to know where you ought to go from there.
> If you need more density, but the contrast looks right, then increase
> both magenta and yellow exposures proportionally equally. If you need
> less density, give proportionally less to each exposure. If it needs to
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> If only a specific area needs more or less contrast, you can burn with
> the appropriate filter. Alternatively, you can dodge with one or the
> other filters during the original exposures. E.g. if 9 sec. Magenta
> gives you washed out sky tones in one area, you can either increase
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> >thanks for any tips,
> >Sreenath
LR Kalajainen - 05 Jan 2005 11:33 GMT
It's OK if the enlarger shakes during the filter change, as long as you
give it a few seconds to settle down and as long as you don't physically
move the negative carrier out of position. My enlarger shakes when I
turn the colorhead dials after each exposure, but it doesn't actually
move the negative.
The blue and green filters wouldn't work because they're filtering out
the colors of light that variable contrast paper is sensitive to.
Larry
>Thanks for the detailed message.
>
[quoted text clipped - 210 lines]
>>>thanks for any tips,
>>>Sreenath
sreenath - 06 Jan 2005 06:16 GMT
Hi,
I tried to make some prints yesterday using more blue filter papers in
filter drawer and I am now able to get contrast desired.
I made one very important observation that I had missed all these days.
In the evening, the electrical voltage is low and it takes more time to
print, as the bulb temperature is lower. Also, one reason for my
frustruation was that I was never able to repeat similar contrasts.
Now I am seeing why. When bulb temperature is low, there is lesser blue
light content. No wonder, even with a blue filter, a very small amount
of blue light was reaching the paper, thereby producing less contrast.
More into night, the supply voltage rises(here in my town), and the
printing times reduce along with an increase in contrast on VC/MC
papers.
With graded papers, the time alone varies, but the contrast is fixed by
the paper.
So I am glad I have now seen the exact reason why I was never getting
constistent results.
I am now planning to use a voltage regulator for my enlarger lamp.
Using blue and green filters for split contrast printing is well
documented.
thanks,
Sreenath
> It's OK if the enlarger shakes during the filter change, as long as you
> give it a few seconds to settle down and as long as you don't physically
> move the negative carrier out of position. My enlarger shakes when I
> turn the colorhead dials after each exposure, but it doesn't actually
> move the negative.
>
[quoted text clipped - 157 lines]
> >>>thanks for any tips,
> >>>Sreenath