Coupla questions (like I only ever have one, right?)

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

Some Dude - 21 Nov 2004 17:04 GMT

#1) Am I missing something or does PMK Pyro last about a day after
mixed? I thought it stored longer...I developed identical rolls a day
apart and the second roll, same film, same times, came out
empty..Maybe I screwed up the roll but just wondering...

#2) Anyone know of any Photograph/Photographic related RSS feeds?

#3) Does anyone do any Night infrared photography? I do and want to
chat with others that do it. Sounds oxymoronical but it isn't with
the right tools :)

Oh and finally, i'm looking for old old old unexposed and expired roll
film (at least 10-15 years expired). Of course will pay for
S&H/whatever or pickup (if you somehow live in VT). 35/120/127/220
also film 8mm/16mm and 70mm. BW preferred. Older the better
(1950's-1960's is my favorite). Email me if you want to dump a ton of
it on me. See my website for email addy.

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Reply to this Message

Gregory W Blank - 21 Nov 2004 18:35 GMT

> #1) Am I missing something or does PMK Pyro last about a day after
> mixed? I thought it stored longer...I developed identical rolls a day
> apart and the second roll, same film, same times, came out
> empty..Maybe I screwed up the roll but just wondering...

IMOP:

Once you mix A+B you measure the lifespan in minutes versus
days. If you just mix the A component to dilution, in water you can add B
just before use.

Signature

LF Website @ http://members.verizon.net/~gregoryblank

"To announce that there must be no criticism of the President,
or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong,
is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable
to the American public."--Theodore Roosevelt, May 7, 1918

Reply to this Message

Some Dude - 21 Nov 2004 22:07 GMT

IYAO (In your Accurate Opinion):

Guess I read the directions wrong..I figured it would last at least a
day or two...I made enough for about 3 120's, used two, and the third
came out clear as piece of glass.

Thanks for the heads up..

saddening, though! (my fault, I know)

>IMOP:
>
>Once you mix A+B you measure the lifespan in minutes versus
>days. If you just mix the A component to dilution, in water you can add B
>just before use.

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Reply to this Message

Jed Savage - 21 Nov 2004 19:13 GMT

> #3) Does anyone do any Night infrared photography? I do and want to
>chat with others that do it. Sounds oxymoronical but it isn't with
> the right tools :)

I've been playing around with extended exposures in moonlight, nothing
involving IR though. I'm curious if you have any galleries though, I'd
like to see what it looks like - and I might be interested in delving
into it.

Reply to this Message

Some Dude - 21 Nov 2004 22:15 GMT

The moon doesn't give off you-know-what for IR even with highly
sensitive IR film (digital, neither)...I suppose if you measured what
nm the moon was projecting the most of you could filter out the rest
but I doubt it'd be any fun...but definitely worth thinking about! :)
I've done the sun broad daylight with 87's and 18's (uv) during that
sunspot and got some great shots at something ridiculous like f/64 @
1/4000

There's two ways I do night IR photog:

One way is to use IR film and an SB80DX flash "cranked" (eg. M)
covered with exposed film (which does a mighty fine job of blocking
visible light and letting in only near-IR). At night you push
something like HIE to around 800-1600, and bracket, bracket, bracket.
I don't have any images online yet but they'll eventually get there.
I've also done this with "2 million candlepower" spot beams.

The other way which is far easier if you have a digital slr (i'm using
d100's and d1x's) is to throw an 87 filter on the camera with a flash
(e.g. same as above) and crank that as well using exposures i've
measured pretty good night IR shots at about 30 seconds F2/8 with a
flash distance measured at 66'. Make sure your camera has digital
noise reduction or it'll look real, real bad. Once done dump to
photoshop and trash the color and neaten up the exposure (use RAW
mode!)

or something.

>I've been playing around with extended exposures in moonlight, nothing
>involving IR though. I'm curious if you have any galleries though, I'd
>like to see what it looks like - and I might be interested in delving
>into it.

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Reply to this Message

Jed Savage - 22 Nov 2004 02:14 GMT

Gotcha. I have a hoya filter that I've used during the day playing
around with IR - but I never thought about trying it at night with a
flash. I'm going to have to play around and see what's possible.
Thanks!

Reply to this Message

Francis A. Miniter - 21 Nov 2004 19:15 GMT

Parts A and B last indefinitely unmixed, but mixed, you have enough time for one
roll of film and that is it. It exhausts (by oxidation, I believe), turns brown
and is finished.

> #2) Anyone know of any Photograph/Photographic related RSS feeds?

What is an RSS feed?

> #3) Does anyone do any Night infrared photography? I do and want to
> chat with others that do it. Sounds oxymoronical but it isn't with
> the right tools :)

Can't help you there, either.

> Oh and finally, i'm looking for old old old unexposed and expired roll
> film (at least 10-15 years expired).

I often find that a few dealers at photographic fairs will bring such film in
case someone like you is interested. Check out Photorama.com for a show near
you. You can usually find someone with old film at the Boston Photographica,
each April and October, sponsored by the New England Photographic Historical
Society, which has a web site for details.

Of course will pay for

> S&H/whatever or pickup (if you somehow live in VT). 35/120/127/220
> also film 8mm/16mm and 70mm. BW preferred. Older the better
> (1950's-1960's is my favorite). Email me if you want to dump a ton of
> it on me. See my website for email addy.

Francis A. Miniter

Reply to this Message

Some Dude - 21 Nov 2004 22:18 GMT

>Parts A and B last indefinitely unmixed, but mixed, you have enough time for one
>roll of film and that is it. It exhausts (by oxidation, I believe), turns brown
>and is finished.

With that in mind is it any good staining after it oxidizes?

>What is an RSS feed?

Stands for "Real Simple Syndication"- Neat stuff..check out here- it
automagically pulls feeds and you can dump them into websites..great
for dynamically updating things:

http://zoom.sh/alex/media/photography/photorss.html

All the links you see in that URL are sent via an RSS feed from
elsewhere so they change as the news/page does.

>I often find that a few dealers at photographic fairs will bring such film in
>case someone like you is interested. Check out Photorama.com for a show near
>you. You can usually find someone with old film at the Boston Photographica,
>each April and October, sponsored by the New England Photographic Historical
>Society, which has a web site for details.

Excellent. I'm not too far from boston..3.5 hrs..Worth the trip if I
can score :)

Still praying freecycle will come through :)

Cheers,
-sd
http://www.zoom.sh

Reply to this Message

Francis A. Miniter - 22 Nov 2004 00:59 GMT

>>Parts A and B last indefinitely unmixed, but mixed, you have enough time for one
>>roll of film and that is it. It exhausts (by oxidation, I believe), turns brown
>>and is finished.
>
> With that in mind is it any good staining after it oxidizes?

Yes, because that is just staining and does not involve developing. Patrick
Gainer recommends that if you use an acid system (stop bath and fixer) you
should re-immerse the the film in the used developer for a minute or two before
washing to increase the stain, since some may have been lost in the acid system.

I, however, use no stop bath (just a water rinse) and a neutral fixer (TF-2), so
that step is not needed.

Francis A. Miniter

p.s., My Parts A and B are going on 3 years and are just fine.

Reply to this Message