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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / November 2004

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Need Help Removing Old Developer

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Marvin Culpepper - 21 Nov 2004 00:31 GMT
I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
found that fixer and deverlper had been left in the unit. The fixer broke up
and came out in cakes. The developer is about a 1/4" thick in the bottom of
the tank and very hard to scrape out. Any one out there know what I can use
to dislove the developer so I can get it out. Someone said vinegar might
work. I have not tried that yet. If you know of something you can email me
at swamptrader@cox.net
PATRICK GAINER - 21 Nov 2004 01:55 GMT
>I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
>found that fixer and deverlper had been left in the unit. The fixer broke up
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>  

How about hot water in copious quantities?
Tom Phillips - 21 Nov 2004 02:47 GMT
> >I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
> >found that fixer and deverlper had been left in the unit. The fixer broke up
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> >
> How about hot water in copious quantities?

Soap and water and a sponge might work if the stains/
residue isn't from long term neglect. But sounds like
they guy never washed the processor after each use
and has a build up.

I think Kodak makes a devloper cleaner for use with
professional systems/processors. Otherwise one can
mix cleaners. Note these are very caustic solutions
and you should have good ventilation (i.e., don't
breath them and use adequate gloves/skin-eye protection.)

Kodak TC-1 Tray Cleaner

Water                               1.0 liter
Potassium Dichromate, anhydrous     90.0 grams
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated         96.0 milliliters

Pour a small amount into trays or bottles and swirl
it around until the stain is gone. Rinse.

Kodak TC-3 Tray Cleaner

Solution A
Water                               1.0 liter
Potassium Permanganate              2.0 grams
Sulfuric Acid, concentrated         4.0 milliliters

Solution B
Water                               1.0 liter
Sodium Bisulfite, anhydrous         30 grams
Sodium Sulfite, anhydrous           30 grams

Pour a small amount of solution A and leave for a few
minutes. Rinse. Pour the same amount of solution B and
agitate until stain is gone. Wash thoroughly.

Solutions can be used repeated by solutions shouldn't
be stored.
Tom Phillips - 21 Nov 2004 18:09 GMT
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ti2000/ti2000.pdf

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/ti0323/ti0323.pdf

> > >I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
> > >found that fixer and deverlper had been left in the unit. The fixer broke up
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
> Solutions can be used repeated by solutions shouldn't
> be stored.
Nicholas O. Lindan - 21 Nov 2004 12:38 GMT
> > deverlper had been left in the unit. what I can use
> > to dislove the developer

> How about hot water in copious quantities?

And just let it soak for a few hours, clean, soak some
more.  At the end try some Spic'n'Span on a paper towel.

Signature

Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer:  Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

McLeod - 21 Nov 2004 15:00 GMT
>I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
>found that fixer and deverlper had been left in the unit. The fixer broke up
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>work. I have not tried that yet. If you know of something you can email me
>at swamptrader@cox.net

Lysol toilet bowl cleaner.  Make sure you use it in a well ventilated
area with a respirator because it will give off fumes.
Mike King - 22 Nov 2004 04:06 GMT
Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner works great on color developer racks, too.

Clorox should be avoided and never ever mix Clorox with anything acid unless
you have a gas mask (like fixer, stop bath or Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner!!)!!
Clorox also damages stainless steel, the tanks will need to be re-passivated
if you use it, so it's altogether a bad idea unless you're going after
algae/bio-slime in wash tanks.

You used to be able to buy ready mixed tray cleaners with dichromates but I
believe the dichromates are now considered HazMat and carcinogenic.  In my
limited experience the stuff would bleach trays white but the trays stained
when put back in contact with developers.  I'd try something else first.

Signature

darkroommike

----------

>
> >I bought a used black and white paper processor when I removed the racks I
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> Lysol toilet bowl cleaner.  Make sure you use it in a well ventilated
> area with a respirator because it will give off fumes.
Pete Schermerhorn - 22 Nov 2004 17:50 GMT
I use hydrochloric acid (actually, the commercial "Muriatic Acid"), often used
for cleaning brick and masonry surfaces.  It works like a charm.  Follow the
recommendations for use on the container.
Pete Schermerhorn, in the glorious Berkshire hills of western Massachusetts
Remove nojunk.
 
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