Use a less offensive name for yourself and we'll answer.

Regardless of your offensive name ;-) I'll help you out :-)

Typically a 1 stop push is an increase of about 10%
so 2 stops is going to be an addition of about 1.2 minutes
using a 6 minute development time. That's how I would
do it.

Personally I don't like the M.D.C other than a vague
jumping off point, there's too many cooks contributing to
that pot of soup and some are quite questionable in their
knowledge of the recipes.

Try 50-60% longer in the HC110.  That'll get you close.

You underexposed your film?

Too bad.

   Since the film is already developed this is sort of moot but as a
rule of thumb most films will push a stop by increasing the
development time about 1.5 times. For two stops that comes out to
somewhere around 3 to 4 times normal. Of course what you are really
doing is increasing contrast. The assumption is that the wanted image
is recorded in the toe region of the characteristic, which has much
lower contrast than the normal exposure section. Increasing
development increases the contrast of the toe enough to get some
separation of the tones there but it also increases the overall
contrast which may make parts of the picture which received more
normal exposure hard to print. One stop pushing is about the same or a
bit more than increasing contrast about one paper grade. Two stops
push about two paper grades, maybe a little more for both. At some
point, if the exposure falls low enough, the film simply doesn't
record anything. No amount of pushing will recover an image. This
limit is just about two stops for most films when using the ISO speed
rating. Even at one stop there will be a degradation of shadow detail.
  The ISO method has virtually no safety factor (about 1.25). Up to
1958 the method used had a 2.5X safty factor. A lot of films, like
Tri-X, which got a reputation for being very pushable around then did
so because the ASA speed ratings were a stop _over exposed_. You could
get maybe three stops over the ASA speed, but this is the same as two
stops over the ISO speed.
  Films like Kodak P3200T-Max can be pushed a lot because they have
odd curves which result in an ISO speed much lower than the actual
emulsion speed. The Kodak and Ilford films have ISO speeds of around
800 to 1000 but the true speed is around 3000 to 4000 as the Kodak
name suggests.

Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@ix.netcom.com