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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / October 2004push processing kodak tx400
Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? Kate > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > Kate The best developer, IMO, for taking Tri-X to EI 1600 is Diafine. No special development needed; 1600 is the "normal" speed for this combination. Just three minutes in Bath A and another three in Bath B, just enough agitation to ensure you don't have air bells. Use a water stop instead of acid stop (stop isn't really needed, other than to prevent carry-over into the fixer, but the carbonate alkali in Bath B can produce pinholes in a strong acid stop). Failing availability of Diafine, doubling your development time should get you close to a two stop push with your existing developer.  SignatureThe challenge to the photographer is to command the medium, to use whatever current equipment and technology furthers his creative objectives, without sacrificing the ability to make his own decisions. -- Ansel Adams Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer http://silent1.home.netcom.com Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. Kate, TMAX is pretty good for pushing up to 1600 (I have used it for concert photography). A little grainy of course and much contrasted, but pretty good definition. Good luck, Emmanuel > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > Kate > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). Edwal FG-7 with sodium sulphite 15% is pretty good. > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > Kate I haven't tried the new 400TX, but the older TX (400 speed) was easy to push to 1600 with almost any developer, if you don't mind increased contrast and grain. Try increasing the developing time 50%. I am guessing Jessops Econodev Universal is probably a phenidone-hydroquinone developer. If so, that's good. > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > Kate Pushing does not work. Forget it. U?ytkownik "Kate" <anon@anon.net> napisa? w wiadomo?ci > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? Kate, this is what I've been advised here sometime ago and it worked wonderfully. I copy the previous message: "Baz" <baz@baz.org> > try cook it this way: twenty celsius degrees for about fourteen minutes > std agitation, if you're on a difflight source. but maybe that > eighteen-twenty same temp 1+1 D23/water will raise up shads a bit > without loose highs. > I think D23 is right to cutoff some grain from tx. If you want to read the whole discussion, it's here: http://groups.google.pl/groups?hl=pl&lr=&threadm=cb6h0e%246au%241%40in ews.gazeta.pl&rnum=8&prev=/groups%3Fq%3Dgroup:rec.photo.darkroom%2Baut hor:Magdalena%26hl%3Dpl%26lr%3D%26as_drrb%3Db%26as_mind%3D12%26as_minm %3D4%26as_miny%3D2004%26as_maxd%3D28%26as_maxm%3D10%26as_maxy%3D2004%2 6selm%3Dcb6h0e%25246au%25241%2540inews.gazeta.pl%26rnum%3D8 Regards, Magdalena > If you want to read the whole discussion, it's here: Magdalena, my post isn't avaliable under google, sorry. here the old lines:--------------------- try cook it this way: twenty celsius degrees for about fourteen minutes std agitation, if you're on a difflight source. but maybe that eighteen-twenty same temp 1+1 D23/water will raise up shads a bit without loose highs. I think D23 is right to cutoff some grain from tx. sorry can't help you if you are on condlight side. only because I think condlight is a dog. time ago got good with push tx [new], it was a grainy stuff to do: lot of celsius, lots of agitation, HC/rod fiftyfifty. if you want can show you how grainy.same job on D23 was completely different: less grain, better highs control, lower contrast, precious shads, easy to print for a more conventional sight. ----------------------------------------- Anyway, thank you for recalling this brew... ;) Would you send me some of the tests you made that time? here my mailbox info-at-bazab-dot-org you can see a little of mine here www-dot-bazab-dot-org byez SignatureLo, forever. : Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev : Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development : time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). : If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? : Kate Keep in mind that "push" processing doesn't actually increase the film speed by any meaningfull amount. You won't gain much if anything in the shadows. It does increase the contrast which means that it will help in the midtones and highlights. I would suggest that you only "push" TX400 (TMY) one stop and make use of the exposure lattitude built into the film. In fact the the book from Kodak called "Kodak Professional Black and White Films" suggest that for a one stop push you not alter the development time at all. SignatureKeep working millions on welfare depend on you ------------------- fwp@deepthought.com > : Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > : Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Keep in mind that "push" processing doesn't actually increase the film speed > by any meaningfull amount. Actually, it can. By as much as 1 stop+ > You won't gain much if anything in the shadows. It > does increase the contrast which means that it will help in the midtones and > highlights. What it does is change the C.I., which should be combined with a suitable subject, not a normal contrast range. > I would suggest that you only "push" TX400 (TMY) one stop and make use of the > exposure lattitude built into the film. In fact the the book from Kodak called > "Kodak Professional Black and White Films" suggest that for a one stop push you > not alter the development time at all. They're wrong. It's best to give additional development. > > : Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > > : Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > They're wrong. It's best to give additional development. No, they're not. They're right. Simply develop the film normally. > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with > Jessops Econodev [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > for this process? > Kate I have no idea what is in Jessops developer. Good push developers are Kodak T-Max and T-Max RS (probably the best, Kodak Xtol, Ilford Microphen. There are probably others but these work well. You can not really increase film speed. Pushing increases contrast. Since the low exposure part of the film curve has lower contrast than the rest you can increase it to where it becomes more printable but you are also increasing the rest of the curve so the highlights will become very contrasty. Tri-X ISO 400 will push to around EI-1000 with decent results but at EI-1600 the negatives are going to be very contrasty and grainy and there may not be much shadow detail. At some point the exposure is too low to record an image at all so increasing contrast won't help. Because of the way the ISO speed standard is written there is not much underexposure latitude, two stops is about the limit. You would do better to use one of the super speed films like T-Max P3200 or the Ilford or Fuji equivalent. At EI 1600 these films are working near their actual speed. They will have significantly better tonal rendition and be easier to print than a pushed slower film. If you are stuck with Tri-X then I suggest T-Max RS for pushing. Signature--- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@ix.netcom.com > You would do better to use one of the super speed > films like T-Max P3200 or the Ilford or Fuji equivalent. At > EI 1600 these films are working near their actual speed. > They will have significantly better tonal rendition and be > easier to print than a pushed slower film. I totally agree. In my little experience @3200 the best is Ilford Delta 3200. That i use usually with my Rolleiflex, and developed in MIcrophen at nominal speed give only a slight grain. True, it hase some grain on 30x30cm, but is not so noticeable and is, more important for me, well distributed on the image. I think that developing is everything, expecially with this lightning fast emulsions. Used Microphen stock, at ilford time +15%- If I have to expose @1600 ISO fuji Neopan developed in id-11 1+1 is perfect and unsurpassed. Seems to have the rendition of a normal Neopan 400!! amazing. For higher ISo setting I prefer T-max. Once I exposed just for a try at ISO 12500. Uhmm, yes printable and there is image. But to use in extreme conditions. Everything writen above is my personal experience for 6x6 format. For 35mm format i suggest to use only Neopan or ilford Delta. The last one still remains for me the best of this class. But never tried to push over 12500. At 6400 it's contrasty and grainy like snowballs... but is some kind of pictures it's the best!! ciao!! SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! > > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with > > Jessops Econodev [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > You can not really increase film speed. Pushing increases > contrast. Increasing developing time alters (increases) the effective speed of a film by moving the speed point. But the change in exposure should be combined with a suitable subject (i.e., luminance range.) "Push processing" is really a fallacy, since what one is really doing is causing an increase in the C.I., not making one's film "faster." If you need faster film, I'd agree one should just use a faster film. > Since the low exposure part of the film curve has > lower contrast than the rest you can increase it to where it [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickburk@ix.netcom.com Thanks for all you replies, very helpful. kate > Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev > Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development > time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > Kate The "gold standard" for pushing Tri-X was and probably still is Diafine. I have not tested Diafine in the "new" Tri-X but would expect similar results. Note that other high energy developers like Microphen, etc. will also produce printable negatives, as will TMax developer. 1600 is pretty much the limit for Tri-X, I think you'd get better results at EI 800-1000. And, has been said before, you don't really get any "real" film speed gain with these big pushes but you can get negatives which are suitable for some purposes. If you routinely need higher speeds shoot TMax 3200. Signaturedarkroommike ---------- > Thanks for all you replies, very helpful. > kate [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? > > Kate >Does anyone know if you can push process kodak TX400 with Jessops Econodev >Universal? Probaby not! If so how much do I need to increase development >time for 400 pushed to 1600 (2 stops). >If this developer not suitable, could one be recommended for this process? Kodak recommends a 50 percent increase in time using T-Max developer.6.5 min. vs. 10 min. for EI1600. I'm not familiar with the developer you are using but most "universal" formulas are somewhat stronger than T-Max developer as they can be used to develop papers as well as films. If this is the case then I'd only increase the developing time by 30% lest the contrast increase too much. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Please remove the "_" when replying via email |
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