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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / November 2004Can luminous dials fog film?
I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large amount of luminance. Since this timer is located right above the area where I tray process sheet film (tmax 100 and 400), I am concerned it may cause some fogging. Has anyone run tests to see if luminous dials will cause fogging? {{Convert liamtoh to hotmail to reply offline.}} > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > {{Convert liamtoh to hotmail to reply offline.}} I've never had a problem, but if you are worried just stand a piece of board several inches in front of the timer. You will still be able to see if if you look from the side, but there will be much less light spilling onto your work area.  SignatureRobert D Feinman Landscapes, Cityscapes and Panoramic Photographs http://robertdfeinman.com mail: robertdfeinman@netscape.net > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > {{Convert liamtoh to hotmail to reply offline.}} It does not happen to me, but I do not hold unprocessed film right in front of my Time-O-Lite timer either. The glow in the dark stuff is much dimmer than my safelight, and the safelight does not seem to cause problems. While the glow in the dark stuff is yellowish green and the safelight dim amber, I do not know just how much practical difference it makes. As far as my GrayLab 300 is concerned, that is on the other side of the darkroom over the developping tray (for paper). Signature.~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 10:25:00 up 6 days, 21:56, 3 users, load average: 4.26, 4.23, 4.14 > > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > As far as my GrayLab 300 is concerned, that is on the other side of the > darkroom over the developping tray (for paper). You probably don't want to oversensitize them (they _can_ emit more far more light than is actually necessary to see them in the dark.) I tend to keep my GraLab covered and then flash the room lights until it's just bright enough to see. I don;t need it blazing bright. If you're concernerd about it the main thing would be consistency. But any fogging is minute in my experience. No real prcatical difference short term as long as you maintain adequate distance. i just cover or turn around my timers (and anything else that emits light of any kind) while i load film onto the reels. there's no need to have them on at that time. i would be especially careful with films over asa400. i've had 3200asa film fog very quickly on me. another thing i do is if it's slow speed film and i'm lazy, i'll just turn my back on the timer while i reel up. -c. > > > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > > > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > But any fogging is minute in my experience. No real prcatical > difference short term as long as you maintain adequate distance. > > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > As far as my GrayLab 300 is concerned, that is on the other side of the > darkroom over the developping tray (for paper). Am I missing something here? I've never been aware of the possibility of processing panchromatic film under an amber safelight. Green, yes! Surprisingly bright green, yes. Please, enlighten me to amber lights w/ film :-o > > > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > > > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > yes. > Please, enlighten me to amber lights w/ film :-o i believe the op was talking about the green luminescent dials on gralab timers. the respondent got off on safelights (ie discussing prints, not film as op??). i found it a bit confusing too. actually i did not notice that the op was processing sheet film - i discussed reels. oops. for my part, i would never process sheet film in any light at all. no dial. no safelight. it takes some getting used to but the results are worth the effort. good luck. -c. On 10/22/2004 6:40 AM blaughn@liamtoh.com spake thus: > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. The amount of > luminous material incorporated into this unit produces an unusually large > amount of luminance. Since this timer is located right above the area where > I tray process sheet film (tmax 100 and 400), I am concerned it may cause > some fogging. Has anyone run tests to see if luminous dials will cause > fogging? Since my timer (Beseler electronic) has luminous paint on the front panel, I throw my changing bag over it when processing film. Dunno if it's needed, but this way I don't have to worry about it. SignatureEverybody's worried about stopping terrorism. Well, there's a really easy way: stop participating in it. - Noam Chomsky > On 10/22/2004 6:40 AM blaughn@liamtoh.com spake thus: > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > panel, I throw my changing bag over it when processing film. Dunno if > it's needed, but this way I don't have to worry about it. You could always test it, the same way you do a safelight for paper. On 10/22/2004 4:49 PM PATRICK GAINER spake thus: >> On 10/22/2004 6:40 AM blaughn@liamtoh.com spake thus: >> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> > You could always test it, the same way you do a safelight for paper. Why bother? Out of sight, out of mind, literally in this case. SignatureEverybody's worried about stopping terrorism. Well, there's a really easy way: stop participating in it. - Noam Chomsky > I just got a new (to me) Graylab model 300 process timer. ... I am concerned it may cause some fogging. Has anyone run tests to see if luminous dials will cause fogging? As other posters mentioned, I just cover mine when loading film - peace of mind. I have a GraLab 300, like you, and a couple of enlarging timers that all through off light, I cover them all. For what it's worth, I also have a Gralab model 167. It is essentially the 300, but in a white case, no luminous dial, and water protected switches! It's marketed (judging from their website) for kitchens rather than darkrooms. I use it when processing film, since it doesn't need to be covered (if any do) and I can adjust it or turn it on and off with wet hands. And, it was cheaper than the 300, even on Ebay!!! I recommend one of these unless soemone actually wants the black case and luminous dial. Cheers! David I just posted a reply about the Gralab 167, where I said that it was "essentially" the same as the 300. As soon as I hit "post", I realized that I left out the operational difference. The 167 doesn't have a plug for a safelight. So, If you don't need the luminous dial, AND you don't plug your safelights into the timer ... Sorry. David >So, If you don't need the luminous dial, >AND you don't plug your safelights into the timer ... I never did understand why the majority of timers have the safelight socket. I just leave my safelights on all of the time. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Vote "No! for the status quo. Vote 3rd party !! > I never did understand why the majority of timers have the > safelight socket. I just leave my safelights on all of the time. BECAUSE darkrooms used to be MUCH LIGHTER. My guess is that the safelight feature preceded VC papers. I just checked my timer. The safelight goes off for focusing. In years gone by, when graded papers were the norm, the bright safelighting was turned off to facilitate quick and accurate focusing. My timer turns off those lights during exposure as well. Even slow graded papers today may take one or two minutes of exposure; so off with the safelights. With graded paper, good paper handling methods, and the safelight socket or a handy switch, levels of darkroom lighting can be startling bright! Dan >> I never did understand why the majority of timers have the >> safelight socket. I just leave my safelights on all of the time. > > BECAUSE darkrooms used to be MUCH LIGHTER. Must have been before my time. I didn't get to work in a darkroom until '78. >My guess is that >the safelight feature preceded VC papers. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >as well. Even slow graded papers today may take one or >two minutes of exposure; If so, one needs a more powerful light source ! > so off with the safelights. > With graded paper, good paper handling methods, and the >safelight socket or a handy switch, levels of darkroom >lighting can be startling bright! Ah ! That's why my 40 year-old Kodak OC's are a little bright ;>) Don't worry. They pass the quarter test. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.puresilver.org Vote "No! for the status quo. Vote 3rd party !! On 10/31/2004 6:34 AM John spake thus: >>> I never did understand why the majority of timers have the >>> safelight socket. I just leave my safelights on all of the time. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Must have been before my time. I didn't get to work in a > darkroom until '78. Hmmm; my first time predates yours (surpringly to me): I first set foot in a curiously dark room around '71. I don't remember them being particularly brighter than now, though. Maybe the ones I used were the cheap ones ... Signature... voting for John Kerry now is like voting for LBJ in 1964 with full precognition of what he was going to do in Vietnam for the next four years. - Alexander Cockburn in _Counterpunch_ (http://counterpunch.org/cockburn10282004.html) >> I never did understand why the majority of timers have the >>safelight socket. I just leave my safelights on all of the time. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > safelight socket or a handy switch, levels of darkroom > lighting can be startling bright! Isn't the traditional colour for painting a darkroom white or light grey so as to take full advantage of the safe light available? I remember having the fume room painted light grey, and even with a 7.5 watt Christmas tree bulb, it was considerably bright, but never harmed any paper..... W |
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