My advice is to shoot the film at EI 200, and develop normally in D-76.
  The true speed of many ASA400 films when exposed and processed for
normal photographic purposes is usually 1/2 the listed ASA, or very
close.  For example, testing with my densitometer showed that 8x10 HP5+,
which Ilford calls a 400 speed film, resulted in an exposure index of 200.

-Peter

PS I have a 1953 Rolleiflex Automat TLR.  If you have trouble focusing,
you might seriously consider a Maxwell bright screen.

 Do you mean the camera has a meter  and it only goes to 200? If that's
what you mean I'm going out on a limb and claiming you can just ignore  the
meter.  Use a handheld meter. Or if you really want to use the built in
meter then set it at 200 and see what combination of  F/stop and shutter
speed it wants you to use. Then either close the aperture one stop or change
the shutter one speed faster.

   OTOH if the camera is some how coupled to the meter and you can't work
around it then I'd suggest just trying the first roll with no changes. You
really should test your setup to find out what your true film speed is.

      Nick

  I am assuming the camera has a built-in exposure meter
but I don't know what Rollei has such a limit on the
exposure calculator. My 2.8E goes up to ISO-800.
  Assuming there is such a limit just halve the exposures
given by the meter for ISO-200, that is, use half the
exposure time or the next larger stop (say f/11 if it reads
f/8).
  I also suggest using a separate exposure meter. Although
the meter in Rolleis is pretty good they are getting old and
some may have bad cells.
  As far as processing, development time changes the
contrast, it can not be used to compensate for exposure.
While film is often "pushed" to a higher speed by increased
development this really does not change the film speed, it
only increases the contrast of the low exposure areas to
make them more printible. You may find that shooting the
film at a slightly slower speed than the ISO-speed will give
you better shadow detail. However, Ilford does not use the
strict ISO method so the box speeds are already adjusted
somewhat in that direction.
  Adjust the exposure given by the meter and develop
normally. Ilford's development recommendations for its films
are also adjusted for a compromise between diffusion and
condenser enlargers so the negatives will print on either
with minimal contrast adjustment.
  Write me privately if you have other Rolieflex questions
(or here if you prefer but I don't check the news groups as
often as I should).

If your camera has 'manual' metering, the needle reading is transferred to
a small set of concentric dials and the metered speed/f-stop combinations
are then read from the dials, you are in luck.

The exposure dial on your camera may go past 200 - most go in a full circle.
If so then set the speed to where 400 would be.  The meter itself cares not
a twit about the film ASA.

Tina,

200 is OK to use with 400 speed film. You might have arrived at that
anyway. I would suggest that you obtain a hand meter to go with your
Rollei. That might be more useful than the camera meter. That is a great
camera by the way.

  Frank   Rome, NY