Last year I experimented with trying Liquid Light emulsion on aluminum. I
tried using aluminum flashing (for roofs) following the suggestions in the
book: cleaned it well with mild detergent following which I scrubbed it with
alcohol. I then sprayed a few coats of lacquer on the surface as a sub.
The emulsion seemed to adhere well until I placed it in the developer and
stop bath--at that point the emulsion slid off the material. Anyone had
luck with emulsion on metallic surfaces have any suggestions?
Thanks, Sam
> Last year I experimented with trying Liquid Light emulsion on aluminum. I
> tried using aluminum flashing (for roofs) following the suggestions in the
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Thanks, Sam
There was a thread on photo.net not long ago in which someone described
embedding a silver image within a layer of anodize on aluminum. He used
printing plates, anodized but did not seal, then sensitized with a
silver nitrate solution and converted the silver to halide in the pores
of the anodize; developed, fixed, and then boiled the plate to seal the
anodize pores, effectively locking the image inside a layer of synthetic
sapphire.
Should solve the problem with sliding off, though you might find the
sulfuric acid anodizing bath is more than you want to deal with...
If you don't want to get into anodizing, you might try wet sanding the
lacquer coat and then applying a second subbing layer of straight
gelatin (Knox from the grocery will work for experiments, but you'll
probably want to buy photographic gelatin if you do much of this) before
applying the emulsion. I'd guess the gelatin just can't get a grip on
the lacquer as you'd doing things now. Alternately, and simpler, you
could try cleaning the lacquer surface with chlorine bleach (with a
distilled water rinse and air blast dry) before applying the gelatine;
that works well for people applying carbon prints to glass.

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Jean-David Beyer - 12 Jul 2004 13:15 GMT
>> Last year I experimented with trying Liquid Light emulsion on
>> aluminum. I tried using aluminum flashing (for roofs) following the
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> seal the anodize pores, effectively locking the image inside a layer of
> synthetic sapphire.
When I used to make printing plates, I normally used aluminum ones. They
are already grained: possibly clear anodized, and already coated with a
photosensitive emulsion. For the aluminum plates, you just exposed them to
ultraviolet light through a lith negative, developed and washed them. That
was all there was to it. IIRC, these plates were good for 10,000 to 25,000
copies.
When much longer runs were needed (seldom for me), I took them to a
printing plant where they used zinc plates and developped them in nitric
acid to get the etch deep enough. Since these were photo-offset litho
plates, the etching was nowhere near as deep as for letterpress plates. In
fact, for the aluminum plates, the only difference was that the exposed
areas were ever so slightly tan (before being inked) compared to the rest
of the plate.
Of course, the only way to do half-tone was with all the little dots as
the plates and the press could not do half-tone directly.

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