Well, if you mean me (about Caffenol?), here it is -- this is based on
an article by Roger Bunting from about 1996, but I got it from a thread
on photo.net.  The name "Caffenol" is mine; others have called it
"Folgernol" or just coffee developer.

For each eight ounces of water:

2 tsp. Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
4 (slight rounded) tsp. Folger's Coffee Crystals (or good copy of Folger's).

Mix at room temperature, stirring the soda until the solution is
completely clear before adding the coffee, and stirring until the coffee
is fully dissolved.

For Plus-X at EI 125, 25 minutes at 68 F
For Tri-X (old or new) at EI 400, 30 minutes at 70 F

Stop with water, ten agitations per fill until the water poured off is
clear.  Fix with your regular fixer, no need to post-soak or otherwise
take steps to increase stain.

Both yield negatives with significant base stain/fog, exceptional
sharpness, detectable imagewise stain (higher contrast in blue light
than in red), and about 1/3 stop increase in toe speed when scanned in
white light.  I haven't had a chance to print any of these yet -- don't
have my darkroom set up, and won't for several months with an upcoming
move interfering -- but would expect them to print like pyro or pyrocat
negatives, and potentially to require reduced development to avoid
excessive contrast in blue light (though this might be offset by the
contrast filtering effect of the general stain).

The developing agent is believed to be either caffeic acid or its
progenitor chlorogenic acid (if not both), not the caffeine -- in
theory, Folger's Decaf should work, though I don't know anyone who's
tried it.  I'm told chlorogenic acid is present in many green fruits and
leaves, so it's possible there may be other "organic" developers that
could be made with extracts from plants -- but coffee is cheap, readily
available in pre-extracted instant form, and you can drink it when
you're not using it as developer (well, it's instant, so *you* might
drink it, but I won't).

There's also a low contrast version (my own modification), suitable for
Tech Pan, microfilms, and other contrast control situations.  Simply cut
the coffee crystals in half while keeping the washing soda the same,
though you're generally on your own for starting times.  General stain
is nearly eliminated, though there is still some imagewise stain.  For
Imagelink HQ (very similar to Tech Pan in ways that matter) exposed at
EI 50, I'd start with 30 minutes at 70 F, though you could use 20
minutes if you expose at EI 25.  The negatives don't look pushed even at
EI 50; again, there may be a small toe speed increase.  The same time
(30 minutes) can probably be used for Copex Rapid at EI 100, though I
haven't tested enough to be certain.