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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / June 2004delta 3200: the same error?
Please an help!! Cold stored, maximum accuracy. The film is surely correctly esposed with my rolleiflex. Previously i posted a strange effect occurred in developing a delta 3200 120: a strong grey halo in the film. This effect in occurred again. The film is printable with good tones and grain but I've to print it at high contrasts. This strong grey halo on the film is horrible. The film was developed perfectly, and fixed properly. First attempt: id-11 @ 20?C at Ilford times, tmax fixer Second attempt: Microphen stock, Hypam fixer. The developer is fresh. The ficer is fresh. I developed with accuracy in controlled temperature, and the water is poor of minerals. I doubled the fixing times and consequently the washing times. Whaaats wrong? Someone says to me that delta films have greyh tones on the films but it's quite strange... when I bring the film to the prolab the greyish is not visible and the film tail is quite transparent as normal... Please I accept every suggestion! ciao, Stefano  SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! Is your fixer fresh? T grain films need fresh fixer. Jorge > Please an help!! > Cold stored, maximum accuracy. The film is surely correctly esposed [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > ciao, > Stefano Il computer puo essere un grande strumento, ma in mano a Jorge Omar sta a ved? che scrive sul niusgrup: > Is your fixer fresh? T grain films need fresh fixer. > > Jorge just prepared and pronmptly used at working solution. Very fresh. As I written before I tryed with a tmax fixer (fresh) and with a Hypam fixer (fresh) at slighltly longer times than suggested. SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! > Il computer puo essere un grande strumento, ma in mano a Jorge Omar > sta a vedè che scrive sul niusgrup: [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > As I written before I tryed with a tmax fixer (fresh) and with a > Hypam fixer (fresh) at slighltly longer times than suggested. Is there any good reason that you know of that it isn't radiation fog? Il computer puo essere un grande strumento, ma in mano a John McGraw sta a ved? che scrive sul niusgrup: > Is there any good reason that you know of that it isn't radiation fog? I don't live near a Nuclear Plant , film was fresh, never tripped with it, no airport scanning... really dunno!! :( SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! > Is there any good reason that you know of that it isn't radiation fog? Just what I was thinking. Dan > > Is there any good reason that you know of that it isn't radiation fog? > > Just what I was thinking. Dan Radiation fog? I went through this issue a year ago when I found a box of Kodak High Speed IR was all fogged. Being skeptical of my own opinion that it couldn't be radiation since none of the other film in the freezer was fogged, I consulted the film tech at a renouned astronomy lab and he said NO WAY was it caused by radiation. Who to believe? > Please an help!! > Cold stored, maximum accuracy. The film is surely correctly esposed [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Stefano > One suggestion: maybe your process didn't wash away completely antihalation back layer. Try with a proper prewash in plain water (before developing) for about five minutes and finally a fresh, not hardening fixer like plain fix. (dist water, 96° F, one pint then 30 g sodium sulfite + 250 g sodium thiosulf). > One suggestion: maybe your process didn't wash away completely > antihalation back layer. Try with a proper prewash in plain water > (before developing) for about five minutes and finally a fresh, not > hardening fixer like plain fix. (dist water, 96? F, one pint then 30 g > sodium sulfite + 250 g sodium thiosulf). If it's the antihalation backing, then soaking it in developer should get rid of it. So will soaking in hypo-clear (if you have it). > [Delta 3200] Cold stored, maximum accuracy. The film > is surely correctly esposed with my rolleiflex. > When I develop it I get fog, when the store develops it, AOK. Possibly light fogged the film. I would check for _any_ (no matter how little) light in your darkroom and get rid of it. I have had fogged 3200 from walls lit by the neon bulb on a power outlet strip. I covered the light with black tape: no more fog. Light that does nothing to ASA 100 will fog 3200. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ > Possibly light fogged the film. > > I would check for _any_ (no matter how little) light in your > darkroom and get rid of it. taken. I will follow your suggestion asap. > I have had fogged 3200 from walls lit by the neon bulb > on a power outlet strip. I covered the light with black tape: > no more fog. > > Light that does nothing to ASA 100 will fog 3200. wow. my film loading camera usually is very very dark. I tested since years standing in for minutes to check any light passing. loading chamber is previously used by a tipographer. But i will try to follow yor suggestion with more attentionat any source of light next time. Thanks, Stefano SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! >Please an help!! >Cold stored, maximum accuracy. The film is surely correctly esposed [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >ciao, >Stefano If Nicholas' suggestion doesn't help, though I'd bet he's right, ask yourself these questions. How old is the film? If it is past the expiration date how cold was it stored? Very high speed films will get some fog even cold stored over the years, using a deep freeze may help that but I don't know how much. Another question to consider is how was it stored before you bought it, it may have been mishandled or stored in a hot warehouse. > If Nicholas' suggestion doesn't help, though I'd bet he's right, ask > yourself these questions. > > How old is the film? film is fresh, expiration date was aug 2005 > Another question to consider is how was it stored before you > bought it, it may have been mishandled or stored in a hot warehouse. mmh. thinkin about it!! thanks! SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! i had once the same problem, but the film was exposed to heat in my car for some days. > > If Nicholas' suggestion doesn't help, though I'd bet he's right, ask > > yourself these questions. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > thanks! It sure sounds like fog. High speed, sensitive emulsions have very low fogging thresholds. If a roll of film from your supply, processed in a commercial darkroom has no fog then the source of the fogging is in your darkroom. Check your darkroom for: 1. Light leaks, however small. 2. Glowing LED's, I cover my LED clock face with a towel when loading my film tanks. 3. "Afterglow" from florescent lights, for several minutes after a florescent light is shut off it can emanate UV radiation. I have both incandescent and florescent lights in my darkroom but turn the florescent lights on only when cleaning up after a darkroom work session. 4. Radium clock and watch faces from classic timepieces. 5. Your water supply? Are you using distilled water for your developer solutions? If none of the above, then I would start to wonder about your film supply. I would then purchase two fresh rolls of film, shoot, handle and store identically. Send one out and process the other in your darkroom. Signaturedarkroommike ---------- > i had once the same problem, but the film was exposed to heat in my car for > some days. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > > > thanks! > If none of the above, then I would start to wonder about your film supply. > I would then purchase two fresh rolls of film, shoot, handle and store > identically. Send one out and process the other in your darkroom. I'm startin to think that the grey is not an antihalo shade but a very very very low fogging treshold. So next time I will load my tank assuring: - absolutely no light (neither one of my scuba watch? is fluorescent...) - faster tank loading - singin a prayer to avoid that f*** grey halo... thanks for reasonable suggestions. I will follow them asap. For sure I will make a test ad you suggested with a roll in lab and one roll will developed by myselh as final countermeasure... ciaO!! Signaturethanks! Stefano Bramato <miocuggino@despammed.com> ha scritto: > - absolutely no light (neither one of my scuba watch? is > fluorescent...) Take it off if in doubt. Anyway, working in a changing bag is always the safest thing for me. And quicker, too. SignatureRegistered user at http://counter.li.org # 170453 Jabber JID: silvio@jabber.linux.it GnuPG Key fingerprint = 10E0 2B05 0B0A 3525 8760 788B 59B6 C74A 250E 65B6 > Take it off if in doubt. Anyway, working in a changing bag is always the > safest thing for me. And quicker, too. nice idea. SignatureNon ? bello cio che ? bello figuriamoci cio che ? brutto! |
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