Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / June 2004
I want a developer...
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whitewave - 08 Jun 2004 20:48 GMT ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. (I don't care a lot about shadow details).
I strated developing my films 2 months ago, and 'til now I've used only ID11 1+1 and Rodinal with Agfa APX 25.
ID11 seems to be a good compromise for what I'm looking for, but maybe you can suggest me a better choice.
Thanks. ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Any Moose Poster - 08 Jun 2004 21:56 GMT > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it Then again,... what you want is someone to do all your testing and give you a magic bullet knowing exactly what it is your striving for?
Here's some advice get the Film Developing Cookbook and read it, then select some of the many developers in it and test the film with the chosen developers, that way you'll have some real knowledge versus the many opinions that are often expressed here.
 Signature Duzz that A moose you ?
whitewave - 09 Jun 2004 08:17 GMT >Then again,... >what you want is someone to do all your testing and give you a >magic bullet knowing exactly what it is your striving for? Too many developers, and above all too many developer-film possibilities. Now I'm reading Ilford Product Data Guide. They offer 8 developers, add the ones made by Kodak, the ones made by agfa and so on.
Ilford: ID11 - reading at their review it seems what I want MICROPHEN - Is it useful for push processing only? PERCEPTOL - the extra fine grain and the excellent definition seems ok. But is it suitable for slow film only? DDx - it seems exactly the developer I want, but I think I never saw it in darkroom suplliers ILFOSOL and ILFOTEC HC - tell me more. Is Ilfotech the HC-110 from Ilford? Could I use HC in small tank? DD and RT - don't mind.
..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Michael A. Covington - 10 Jun 2004 01:12 GMT > >Then again,... > >what you want is someone to do all your testing and give you a [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Ilford? Could I use HC in small tank? > DD and RT - don't mind. Ilfotec HC is similar to Kodak HC-110, but not identical. www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110 www.covingtoninnovations.com/xtol
In general, avoid *unusual* developers if you want good results. HC-110 is very reliable and gives fine grain if you don't overdevelop.
Ilford Perceptol and Kodak Microdol-X are speed-reducing developers. They'll give you fine grain at the expense of maybe 30% of the film speed.
whitewave - 09 Jun 2004 08:17 GMT I've just read Agfa and Kodak developers guide.
Studional and Xtol are the ones that looks beter for my needs.
..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Jorge Omar - 09 Jun 2004 11:27 GMT Take a look at this article:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/chasing-magic-bullet.html
Jorge
> I've just read Agfa and Kodak developers guide. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it Martin Jangowski - 09 Jun 2004 13:46 GMT > I've just read Agfa and Kodak developers guide.
> Studional and Xtol are the ones that looks beter for my needs. If you want to have _endless_ hours of fun, buy several makes of film and developers and "test" variations.
Don't confuse wimpy testing (that is trying combinations of film/developer/times with slight variations and recording and evaluating the results) with "fun"-testing. Just take a random combination of film/developer/developing-time/film-speed, expose one roll and develop it. Print a few frames, say "these combination is bad, the highlights don't 'glow'" or someting like that, and use the next random combination for the next roll of film. It is possible to do this for years without stumbling over the same combination again.
You can add to the fun using exotic developer ingredients. Dig old recipes out of dusty books and mix developers with stuff like distilled camel p**s or dried frog innards. The more exotic the stuff, the better. Don't think about differences between contact printed LF glass plates from 1900 and modern 135 films, this would only disturb you. If one recipe doesn't work as intended, search for a more exotic one.
Under _no_ circumstances use tried and true developer/film combinations. After all, what does someone like AA or Richard Avedon know about good B&W-photography? Just because they used the same combination for years and _knew_ what a variation of their tested recipes will bring, don't try to emulate them. This would be boring and lead to better technique. It is much more interesting to say things like "this is a good picture, but unfortunately the Xtol died prematurely" or something like that. Don't try to keep your processing conditions like temperature and agitation constant. After all, there is no fun in identical developed films all the time.
I hope you will be able to find the best combination for you in the shortest possible time.
Martin
Michael A. Covington - 10 Jun 2004 01:13 GMT > Just take a > random combination of film/developer/developing-time/film-speed, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > It is possible to do this for years without stumbling over the > same combination again. Amen! And change camera bodies frequently so you aren't using the same exposure meter...
Seriously, I second Martin's recommendation: Use a developer that a lot of people have had good results with, and adjust your technique until you, too, are getting good results. Overdevelopment is a very common problem.
Jorge Omar - 08 Jun 2004 22:45 GMT Xtol. Finer grain, sharper. But lookout for sudden death (it used to be common, nowadays, with the 5l packet it seems under control,
Jorge
> ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it David Kilpatrick - 08 Jun 2004 23:59 GMT > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > ID11 seems to be a good compromise for what I'm looking for, but > maybe you can suggest me a better choice. Well, you could try just diluting ID11 1 + 3 - it means very long dev times and strictly one-shot working with great care in agitation. But in exchange, you get finer grain (as long as you stick to 20C temp) and increased contour sharpness, along with a compensating effect which will unfortunately boost your shadow details. You then print on a harder paper, which of course eliminates the grain advantage, but gives you solid d-max and a crisp look to the print.
David
Michael Scarpitti - 09 Jun 2004 02:35 GMT > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it Try Acutol. Write to me directly for details.
BBarlow690 - 09 Jun 2004 12:44 GMT Try Clayton F76 Plus, available from Freestyle. It seems to be really good stuff, easy to work with, and designed to give you what you're asking for.
Clayton print developers are quite nice, too.
Bruce
Nicholas O. Lindan - 09 Jun 2004 02:36 GMT > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. > (I don't care a lot about shadow details). > > I strated developing my films 2 months ago, and 'til now I've used > only ID11 1+1 and Rodinal with Agfa APX 25. ID11 or D-76 1:1 is already an optimum choice, especially good with Plus-X.
Microdol-X gives finer grain. M-X when used with T-Max 100 results in Tech-Pan levels of grain. It works well with Tri-x if the negs are not overexposed or overdeveloped (ie, keep them a bit thin). I like it 1:1 and have not noticed any increased grain. Stock keeps a long time, use 1-shot - great for occasional darkroom user. My developer of choice for anything that isn't Tech Pan.
Xtol is supposed to be better than either of the above but it has a habit of going inactive w/o warning - no color change, no smell, just blank negatives. With lots of bottling care and expiration dates it becomes practical, so they say. I never saw any real performance advantage over D-76 and M-X.
Other vendors have their own take on the above 4, there is not much difference between Kodak, Ilford, .... Buy local.
I recomend Technidol & Tech-Pan for the smoothest tones (at 11x14" the enlargements look like they came from a 4x5 negative.) This combination is my film/developer of choice. ASA 25 is the same speed as the late Kodachrome (25) and K-25 was used hand held in Argus C-3's, so slow speed is _not_ an issue. I use Tech-Pan for candids, kids playing, high speed action shots (sunny f16 at 1/25th second is sunny f1.4 at 1/2000 of a second, indoors close to a window. Using lenses wide open the subject becomes very nicely isolated: try it!)
I guess devlopers are like wheels: even though the design is 5,000 years old, round ones can't be beat.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
ericm1600@yahoo.com - 10 Jun 2004 18:43 GMT >Xtol is supposed to be better than either of the above but it has >a habit of going inactive w/o warning - no color change, no smell, >just blank negatives. With lots of bottling care and expiration >dates it becomes practical, so they say. I never saw any real >performance advantage over D-76 and M-X. Just curious... Have you personally experienced an Xtol failure, or is this something that happened to somebody else? If it happened to you, mind if I add your specifics as to what you did when it failed to the faq I'm compiling?
http://canid.com/xtol_faq.html
I've tried to replicate an Xtol failure by using a bottle that was over a year old. Kodak recommends no more than 6 months of shelf life. Worked fine.
-- Eric http://canid.com/
Jorge Omar - 10 Jun 2004 19:37 GMT There are reasons to believe that the main faillure mechanism of ascorbate devs are due to metal contamination. See (if you have not done already):
http://silvergrain.org/Photo-Tech/ascorbate-dev.html
I had a sudden death faillure with a clone (not Xtol) to which I've added a lot of boric acid to lower the pH (so it would keep longer) and add alkali at dev time. It did not last a week, in agreement with Ryuji's considerations. The same formula, E76, without the boric acid, was OK for a few months before I discarded what was left in the bottle (moved to Pat Gainer's Pglicol/TEA formulas).
Jorge
> Just curious... Have you personally experienced an Xtol failure, or > is this something that happened to somebody else? If it happened to [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Eric > http://canid.com/ Nicholas O. Lindan - 10 Jun 2004 23:32 GMT <ericm1600@yahoo.com> wrote
> >Xtol ... has ... a habit of going inactive w/o warning
> Just curious... Have you personally experienced an Xtol failure ... Yes. Twice. The first time I thought it was me. Then I read it is a 'feature' of the developer.
> or is this something that happened to somebody else? Them too.
> mind if I add your specifics as to what you did when it failed Tossed it. Never bought more. I'm now a 'Microdol Man' - just like I was in High School.
> http://canid.com/xtol_faq.html Quotes: "I decant it into oodles of tiny bottles", "I get 6 months", "I get _over_ a year [isn't that remarkable]"
My camera store has dated price stickers on it's stuff:
I have a 25 year old bottle of HC-110 concentrate, works just [as badly] as when I bought it. To tell the truth the last time I used it was ~4[?] years ago when I gave my neighbor's son a Smegma 8 and a roll of outdated TMX. The concentrate still looks good.
My Rodinal, 12 years. Ditto.
I found an old partial bottle of M-X stock in a moving box. Passes the black tongue test. No sticker, but I moved 10 years ago.
> I've tried to replicate an Xtol failure by using a bottle that was over a > year old. Kodak recommends no more than 6 months of shelf life. Worked > fine. Sounds typical. Some get more, some get less, some get a lot less.
It always goes, it goes fast, you don't know when it goes (+/- a year), and there is no easy way to tell it went. Many post of developing the film tongue to verify it still works.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
|neo_tokio| - 09 Jun 2004 22:52 GMT > ..................................... > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it Spettacolo n!
 Signature http://www.neotokiodesign.com/blog.htm
whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 20:15 GMT Il Wed, 9 Jun 2004 23:52:35 +0200, "|neo_tokio|" <chiedimela@email.it> ha scritto:
>> ..................................... >> Marco Baldovin >> www.whitewave.it > >Spettacolo >n! What? ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Magdalena W. - 09 Jun 2004 23:51 GMT Uzytkownik "whitewave" <marcob81NOSPAM@tiscali.it> napisal w wiadomosci
> ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. > (I don't care a lot about shadow details). >Don't know how it would work with Neopan and Plus-X, but an old (?) Kodak (?) formula called D-23 (look in the Darkroom Cookbook) works wonders with Tri-X. Less grain than in ID-11, smooth, velvety blacks.
Regards, Magdalena
whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 20:15 GMT >>Don't know how it would work with Neopan and Plus-X, but an old (?) >Kodak (?) formula called D-23 (look in the Darkroom Cookbook) works >wonders with Tri-X. Less grain than in ID-11, smooth, velvety blacks. > >Regards, >Magdalena Thanks, good advice.
..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Elia Freddi - 11 Jun 2004 11:21 GMT >Uzytkownik "whitewave" <marcob81NOSPAM@tiscali.it> napisal w >wiadomosci [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >Kodak (?) formula called D-23 (look in the Darkroom Cookbook) works >wonders with Tri-X. Less grain than in ID-11, smooth, velvety blacks. Very good suggestion. D-23 is really a fine grain developer. The only cons I found are that there is a certain speed loss and that it can be critical from acutance point of view - the grain looks a little fluffy and this doesn't help. In my opinion is a very good choice for portraits, where normally the highest acutance is not a must. Rs
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Michael Scarpitti - 11 Jun 2004 17:04 GMT > >Uzytkownik "whitewave" <marcob81NOSPAM@tiscali.it> napisal w > >wiadomosci [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > portraits, where normally the highest acutance is not a must. > Rs Not a good choice at all. Too mushy. The poster requires 'excellent acutance' and D-23 will not provide anywhere near that. Too much solvent. The answer IS Acutol.
Michael A. Covington - 10 Jun 2004 01:10 GMT > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > ID11 seems to be a good compromise for what I'm looking for, but > maybe you can suggest me a better choice. No developer will give you grain with Tri-X that is as fine as a 25 speed film. However, in general, the way to get fine grain is to avoid overdevelopment and avoid Rodinal. ID-11 is not bad; Kodak Xtol (if you can get it) may be appreciably better.
Norman Worth - 10 Jun 2004 03:08 GMT ID-11 is a good compromise for these films. With ID-11 there is a tradeoff between grain and sharpness depending on the dilution. Try it both straight and diluted 1+1 and see which you like best. Acutol is also excellent. I've had some good luck with FX-37, and I suspect FX-39 would be a candidate.
> ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 09:01 GMT Thanks to everyone. Maybe I have to give you more details. I know what T-grain technology is, what technical pan or apx25 (last 6 rolls in my fridge) or efke 25 are. But for my general purposes photos, read it "street photography", I want the look coming from traditionl films like tri-x, neopan and plus-x. Tri-x has beautiful grain, and it's possibile to control it, two classical developer like Rodinal or D76 will give strongly different results with it, for example. D76 1+1 is a general good compromise, but I wanted to know if any developer could give me a finer grain than it. (probably with plus-x I'll continue using D76). Smooth tones and finer grain, this is what I'm looking from Neopan and Tri-x. I love photos taken with MF and tri-x320pan, unfortunately I have only an old Flexaret TLR, so I'm continuing taking photos with 35mm. I would like to come as closer as possible to MF tri-x look, with my 35mm Contax equipment.
A MF equipment isn't on my next "things to do" list. I'll buy a 500cm only when I'll have enough money to buy also a MF negative scanner, as Nikon 9000.
Thanks a lot. ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Michael A. Covington - 10 Jun 2004 17:33 GMT > Thanks to everyone. > Maybe I have to give you more details. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > but I wanted to know if any developer could give me a finer grain than > it. (probably with plus-x I'll continue using D76). A developer with more solvent action, such as Microdol-X or Xtol. But the main thing is to avoid overdevelopment.
whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 20:15 GMT >A developer with more solvent action, such as Microdol-X or Xtol. But the >main thing is to avoid overdevelopment. Wich differences between Microdol-X and Xtol? ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Jorge Omar - 10 Jun 2004 21:14 GMT My experience with Microdol was very fine grain (even diluted 1+3) but lack of sharpness. Not my kind of dev. I believe D-23 will be in the same class.
Jorge O
>>A developer with more solvent action, such as Microdol-X or Xtol. But >>the main thing is to avoid overdevelopment. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it John - 29 Jun 2004 11:46 GMT >My experience with Microdol was very fine grain (even diluted 1+3) but >lack of sharpness. Not my kind of dev. >I believe D-23 will be in the same class. > >Jorge O At 1:3 the grain is fine and sharp. I recommend it.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Nicholas O. Lindan - 10 Jun 2004 23:43 GMT > Wich differences between Microdol-X and Xtol? As I see it:
M-X Xtol
Made from Made from Metol lots of stuff that's S. Sulfite a trade secret Salt
Years in production 70 [?] 7 [?]
Grain As fine as it OK, I didn't think it was can get a whole lot better than D-76
Speed I never worry No problem, works fine at about it -- 400 meter carefully though.
Reliability Good, turns Possibly the worst, brown when no indication of expired expiration.
YMMV
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Jorge Omar - 11 Jun 2004 03:06 GMT "Nicholas O. Lindan" <see@sig.com> wrote in news:Yt5yc.5263$Y3.2637 @newsread2.news.atl.earthlink.net:
> As I see it: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > S. Sulfite a trade secret > Salt Xtol is not so secret. From the patent and the MSDS lots can be deducted. Dimezone, ascorbate, sulfite, metaborate, metabissulfite and some calcium sequestrant from the top of my head.
Do a google groups search for: XTOL: Wow!
Jorge
Michael Scarpitti - 10 Jun 2004 17:37 GMT > Thanks to everyone. > Maybe I have to give you more details. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > want the look coming from traditionl films like tri-x, neopan and > plus-x. Paterson Acutol is by far my favorite on all normal-grain films. Send me some of your film and I will process it for you.
> Tri-x has beautiful grain, and it's possibile to control it, two > classical developer like Rodinal or D76 will give strongly different [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 09:01 GMT Till now my tests will be on:
- Kodak Xtol - Ilford Microphen (it should be designed for traditional films, a "classic" version of Ilfotec DD-x, that should be for Tgrain. And it's useful with medium/high velocity emulsions, such tri-x) - Agfa Studional
(no Acutol in Italy)
Thanks. ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
David Kilpatrick - 10 Jun 2004 11:17 GMT > Till now my tests will be on: > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > (no Acutol in Italy) Chimifoto Ornano do some pretty good copies of most Paterson developers. My favourite is the exact reverse of what you want - the developer they labelled 'DX-16 Crowley'! This is Geoffrey Crawley's special grain-increasing formula, designed to produce maximum grain impact. Only Chimifoto Ornano, as far as I know, have ever manufactured it commercially.
David
whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 20:15 GMT >Chimifoto Ornano do some pretty good copies of most Paterson developers. >My favourite is the exact reverse of what you want - the developer they [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >David Does Ornano sell its product in USA?
I didn't talk about it because I thought you never heard that name. They have a good variety of developer for all the needs. Probably the best for me are: Fino ST33 Gradual St20
Do you know them? ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Chris Loffredo - 10 Jun 2004 23:37 GMT >>Chimifoto Ornano do some pretty good copies of most Paterson developers. >>My favourite is the exact reverse of what you want - the developer they [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Do you know them? Gradual was "my" developer in another life. Apparently it is similar to D-76 (or ID-11) diluted 1:1 or 1:3.
I was always very satisfied with it and would use now it if it were available where I now live.
You should at least compare it with other developers.
Chris
Michael A. Covington - 10 Jun 2004 17:34 GMT > Till now my tests will be on: > > - Kodak Xtol > - Ilford Microphen (it should be designed for traditional films, a > "classic" version of Ilfotec DD-x, that should be for Tgrain. And > it's useful with medium/high velocity emulsions, such tri-x) That is not a particularly fine-grain developer. Did you mean Ilford Perceptol (= Kodak Microdol-X)?
whitewave - 10 Jun 2004 20:15 GMT Il Thu, 10 Jun 2004 12:34:08 -0400, "Michael A. Covington" <look@www.covingtoninnovations.com.for.address> ha scritto:
>> Till now my tests will be on: >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >That is not a particularly fine-grain developer. Did you mean Ilford >Perceptol (= Kodak Microdol-X)? No, that's Micropen. Someone told me to use it because it doesn't give more grain than ID11, but a bit less.
Than I read the Ilford Product Guide where Microphen is declared to be a developer for medium/fast films (my Tri-x and Neopan). And its main feature is the possibility to increase speed, and to give finer grain.
Don't you agree with these sentences? ..................................... Marco Baldovin www.whitewave.it
Nicholas O. Lindan - 10 Jun 2004 23:06 GMT > > > - Ilford Microphen > > That is not a particularly fine-grain developer. Did you mean Ilford > > Perceptol (= Kodak Microdol-X)? > No, that's Micropen [sic].
> [In the] Ilford Product Guide ... Microphen's > main feature is the possibility to increase speed, and to > give finer grain [than what? [ed.]]. > > Don't you agree with these sentences? No.
The shadow speed is a function of the film, not the developer.
 Signature Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Michael A. Covington - 11 Jun 2004 03:57 GMT > > > > - Ilford Microphen > > > That is not a particularly fine-grain developer. Did you mean Ilford [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > The shadow speed is a function of the film, not the developer. I thought it was generally acknowledged that Phenidone-based developers give higher shadow speed than MQ developers. Only about 1/3 stop higher.
My brief experience with Microphen, some years ago, was that it gave at least as much grain as D-76/ID-11, if not more.
Martin Jangowski - 11 Jun 2004 09:20 GMT >> The shadow speed is a function of the film, not the developer.
> I thought it was generally acknowledged that Phenidone-based developers give > higher shadow speed than MQ developers. Only about 1/3 stop higher.
> My brief experience with Microphen, some years ago, was that it gave at > least as much grain as D-76/ID-11, if not more. I run sensitometric tests with ID11 and Microphen (and several others). Microphen is a tiny bit faster and a little grainier, but nothing to write home about. Your 1/3 stop difference is correct... not noticeable in normal life. I made tests on APX100 and developed small strips of a film with 36 identical pictures in several developers ranging from Rodinal over D23, ID11, Microphen, Xtol to Stoeckler Twobath. It is barely possible to distuingish enlargements to 20x30cm (from a 24x36 neg) between Rodinal, the fine grain developers and Xtol.
There is no visible difference between ID11, Microphen and D23 (all used 1+1) enlarged 8x, at 16x you start to see tiny differences, but these are too small to see at typical screen resolutions, only in a A/B comparison.
Martin
John - 29 Jun 2004 11:40 GMT >There is no visible difference between ID11, Microphen and D23 >(all used 1+1) enlarged 8x, at 16x you start to see tiny >differences, but these are too small to see at typical >screen resolutions, only in a A/B comparison. I can see the differences between Microphen and D23 at 8X easily. In fact I use a 9X loupe for viewing of negs and the differences are obvious.
BTW, two things you left out for Microphen are :
1) Capacity - Excellent. At least as good as T-Max RS. 2) Durability - 2nd to Rodinal among alkaline developers.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email
John - 29 Jun 2004 11:42 GMT >My brief experience with Microphen, some years ago, was that it gave at >least as much grain as D-76/ID-11, if not more. Slightly more than D76. If used at 1:3, Microphen will look a lot like Rodinal.
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Donald Qualls - 11 Jun 2004 04:00 GMT >>>>- Ilford Microphen >>> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > The shadow speed is a function of the film, not the developer. I have to disagree with that one, Nicholas. Over the last couple months, I've developed Tri-X in HC-110 B, HC-110 H, Caffenol, and Diafine -- and got increased shadow speed in that order. HC-110 B gives shadow speed pretty close to the ISO rating, H a tiny bit more; Caffenol gives at least 1/3 stop improvement in shadow speed, while Diafine appears to give at least one full stop.
Interestingly, Diafine also gives the least appearance of grain, at least on my Arcus 1200 (2400 ppi flatbed scanner with glassless carrier), and only very slight acutance reduction from HC-110 B. Guess which developer is now getting my Tri-X, at least that shot in my Spottie (the only camera I own that's comfortable with EI 1600 in daylight)?
 Signature I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954
Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm
Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect.
John - 29 Jun 2004 11:45 GMT >The shadow speed is a function of the film, not the developer. /\/\/\ "largely" ??
Regards,
John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email
Mike King - 13 Jun 2004 14:57 GMT Grain is essentially a function of the structure of a particular film. Fine grain developers usually have some sort of solvent action to knock the edges off the grains and make the image APPEAR finer grained, high accutance developers exaggerate the transitions form light to dark and make the grain edges more pronounced. You've asked for a difficult combination!
If you are going to use Tri-X (or whatever) learn to love the film for the qualities it possesses, rather than try to bend the material to your perception of what it SHOULD be. Go to galleries and look at real prints, invest in a few really good prints (preferably from photographers that prefer the same type of subjects, have similar habits, use similar gear, shoot the same types of film and have a workflow similar to yours).
Here's my suggestion. Try either D-76 or ID-11 diluted 1+1, refine your exposure and processing times, shoot many rolls over a year or ten to get minimum exposure, minimum processing and total wet times, print with a diffused light source for smoother transitions between tones and at some point you'll learn to love the film you are using for it's inherent qualities or move on to another film. I solved my problem with Tri-X's grain by simply moving to medium format.
 Signature darkroommike
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> ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Marco Baldovin > www.whitewave.it PG - 15 Jun 2004 09:03 GMT In data Tue, 08 Jun 2004 21:48:28 +0200, whitewave ha scritto:
> ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. PMK Pyro! ;-)
PG
********************************************** E-mail: piggy_pallaNONVOGLIOSPAM@inwind.it ICQ: 256086181 ********************************************** 15/06/04 10.02.54 Portfolio: http://www.usefilm.com/photographer/23832.html http://www.photosig.com/go/users/view?id=42898 **********************************************
Stefano Bramato - 22 Jun 2004 19:18 GMT > In data Tue, 08 Jun 2004 21:48:28 +0200, whitewave ha scritto: > > > ...that can give me, mostly with tri-x, Neopan and Plus-x, VERY fine > > grain, excellent acutance, good contrast and very smooth tones. > > PMK Pyro! ;-)
:D --
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