I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W
film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing,
or scan the negatives then print. I picked up a Kalt Stainless Steel reel
and a cheap roll of film to practice the routine of loading film onto the
developer reel: it seems like this is one of those skills that require some
practice.
Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if
I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is
taped to the spool that I can get it started and wound onto the reel ok ---
at least when I do it in a lighted situation. I can't figure out how to get
is started if I use the start of the roll: the end with the taper - sproket
holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the
spool?
Thanks
Jerry
David Nebenzahl - 25 May 2004 17:05 GMT
On 5/25/2004 8:32 AM Jerry spake thus:
> Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that
> if I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> taper - sproket holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end
> that is taped to the spool?
Pretty simple solution: try cutting the leader (tapered end) off the start of
the roll. You do have a pair of scissors, don't you?
Your pictures don't start until well past the leader. Think about how you load
film into the camera.

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Tony Wingo - 25 May 2004 17:48 GMT
> I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W
> film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing,
> or scan the negatives then print. I picked up a Kalt Stainless Steel reel
> and a cheap roll of film to practice the routine of loading film onto the
> developer reel: it seems like this is one of those skills that require some
> practice.
Indeed. While I'm a dyed-in-the-wool stainless reel guy, many people
find the plastic reels easier to load. If you go that route, use the
Patterson products. If you stick to stainless reels, you will in the
long run be a lot happier if you spend the extra bucks for Hewes reels.
> Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if
> I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the
> spool?
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. I usually just cut the leader
square and start at that end. Other people I know unwind the film from
the spool and start at the taped end.
Have fun.

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-tony
<http://www.shapesandshadows.com
Tom Gardner - 26 May 2004 13:53 GMT
Tony, I've never used a stainless reel in my life. I am wondering what I'm
missing. I have busted a few Patterson reels over the years...any other
great advantages to stainless?
> > I am currently all digital, but am looking to start playing around with B&W
> > film. I would like to do my own developing and either do my own printing,
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Have fun.
Tony Wingo - 27 May 2004 23:36 GMT
> Tony, I've never used a stainless reel in my life. I am wondering what I'm
> missing. I have busted a few Patterson reels over the years...any other
> great advantages to stainless?
I actually find them easier to load than the plastic ones, though I
suspect I'm in the minority there (and again, there's a big difference
between the cheap reels and the name brands). And they can be loaded wet
- for instance if you decide your film needs more washing.
It's also possible to load two rolls of film back to back on a single
stainless reel, though I admit I haven't done this in 35 years.
The thing I like about the Patterson plastic tanks is that they fill
very quickly, which can be important if you're using short development
times.

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-tony
<http://www.shapesandshadows.com
Donald Qualls - 26 May 2004 03:30 GMT
> Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if
> I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> holes on one side. Is it correct to start from the end that is taped to the
> spool?
Just cut the leader off square. There won't be any images for at least
3-4 inches beyond the end of the clipped portion, because that section
gets exposed in loading the camera anyway. If you rewind without
pulling the leader entirely into the cassette, you can even do this part
in the light; then you can pull the film out of the cassette as you
load, and if there's any kind of problem (like too many retries and your
hands are getting sweaty) you can just turn the spool and pull the film
safely back into the cassette before turning on the lights or opening
the changing bag.

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I may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz!
-- E. J. Fudd, 1954
Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer
Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm
Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm
Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth
and don't expect them to be perfect.
Phil Glaser - 28 May 2004 17:52 GMT
> > Here is my question. How do you START the loading process? I found that if
> > I take the film completely off the film spool and start from the end that is
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> Just cut the leader off square. There won't be any images for at least
> 3-4 inches beyond the end of the clipped portion,
With 36 exposure roles I have found it helpful to cut off an extra
inch or so (being very carefull not to cut too far) beyond where the
tapered part ends so that when I get to the end of the roll I don't
have excess film extending beyond the the reel.
I love the look feel of a good old fashioned stainless steel tank.
This is purely sentimental of course . . .
--Phil