> About 1,5 years ago, I purchased a second-hand Durst M707 color enlarger.
> After a (more or less) monthly printing session, I had a 'meltdown' last
> weekend ...a) the wires connected to the lamp were brazed
Durst designs there enlargers rather well, so it is hard to imagine the
enlarger getting as hot as you describe. Be sure, though, that the right
lamp is being used in the enlarger. It may be made for a 50W and have a
100W installed, which would lead to big time overheating.
Or, there may have been a short in the lamp wiring and the 10-20 amps the
transformer can supply (for a short time) was enough to melt the solder
joints.
But "brazed" -- or do you mean soldered? Brazing is half way between a weld
and solder and I doubt you melted a brazed joint - the aluminum housing
would have to melt first (IIRC).
Solder is the stuff radios and circuit boards are put together with.
Around the house it is a soft wire made of 60% lead and 40% tin.
> Apparently, the tin connecting the wires coming from the lamp had melted,
> and the wires had come loose.
That _is_ pretty hot, in any case.
> This made me start considering whether there should be some kind of
> overheating-protection in the enlarger-head,
Besides the solder melting, you mean...
There are thermal cut-off switches:
http://www.thermtrol.com/products.htm
I am sure you have something just like them in the eu. The usual application
is to have a self-resetting disc thermostat in series with one or two thermal
cutoffs. An old coffee maker will yield both the thermostat and the cut-off(s).
> 3. Would it be a good idea to build in a small fan in the enlarger-head
If it really runs that hot, yes. Most small computer fans run on 5VDC, the
enlarger transformer provides 12VAC so you would need to build in a power supply
circuit. OTOH, you may want to have the fan run all the time, this is the
normal way air-cooled equipment works. A small 'wall wart' 5VDC power
supply would run the fan and most folks have a box full of the things from
old electronic gadgets and the like.

Signature
Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio
Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics.
Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com
psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/
Budwich - 12 May 2004 14:46 GMT
Typically, in appliances where heat / current is an issue, crimped
connectors (and brazing) are used to prevent "de-soldering" although as
another poster indicate, its hard to imagine that an enlarger draw enough
current to cause this but maybe in combination with the heat from the bulb.
> > About 1,5 years ago, I purchased a second-hand Durst M707 color enlarger.
> > After a (more or less) monthly printing session, I had a 'meltdown' last
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> supply would run the fan and most folks have a box full of the things from
> old electronic gadgets and the like.
Jorge Omar - 13 May 2004 18:20 GMT
Or a miscontact in some of the wires, and due to the high current (12V
bulb), lots of heath.
Jorge
> Typically, in appliances where heat / current is an issue, crimped
> connectors (and brazing) are used to prevent "de-soldering" although
> as another poster indicate, its hard to imagine that an enlarger draw
> enough current to cause this but maybe in combination with the heat
> from the bulb.
Philippe Lauwers - 12 May 2004 21:04 GMT
I meant soldered. Life isn't always easy without a dictionnary @ hand ;-)
> > About 1,5 years ago, I purchased a second-hand Durst M707 color enlarger.
> > After a (more or less) monthly printing session, I had a 'meltdown' last
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> supply would run the fan and most folks have a box full of the things from
> old electronic gadgets and the like.
Have Nick run down to Electronic Surplus on Broadway and 55th and get you
some inexpensive Teflon wire.
> Hello,
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Philippe