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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / April 2004How to retrieve 35mm leader?
Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of unexposed 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do I get it out? I know there are leader retrievers available for sale; I don't want to buy one. I've heard somewhere or other that one can easily make one's own retriever. I tried sticking a thin curved piece of sheet brass into the cassette, but no luck. How do the retrievers work? Do they just guide the end of the leader out, or do they actually hook one of the sprocket perforations? Any helpful answers will be appreciated.  SignatureI was quickly apprised that an "RSS feed" was not, as I had naively imagined, some new and unspeakable form of sexual debauchery practised by young persons of dubious morality, but a way of providing news articles to the cybernetic publishing moguls of the World Wide Wait so they can fill the airwaves with even more useless drivel. - Cynical shop talk from comp.publish.prepress > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of > unexposed 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do > I get it out? How do you manage such a thing? I've had cameras for over 20 years and put many hundreds of films through in that time, and never rewound a new film. Buy one for around 20USD or less, See here for one in the UK: http://www.goldenbough.co.uk/q.k/49-2666 Or, buy a reusable film canister for ~2USD, and load the film into that. Alan. SignatureTo reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. http://www.dvatc.co.uk - Off-road cycling in the North Midlands. Our local camera shop processes film in the store (as do most) in a machine. The first thing they do is retrieve the leader strip (in daylight) in order to get the film loaded into the machine. The couple of times I have rewound a partially used roll, I have taken the cannister to the local camera store and the kind person there has retrieved the leader in a few seconds with no charge to me. Sam Actually, there are two pieces of thin metal and you trap the leader between them. You then slide the clap down tighten the leader between the two pieces of metal. IMHO not an easy thing to make (that works) If you do this that often just spring for a retriver at Adorama: There are 4 choices listed here; better yet stop doing this! Hama BLFLRH 8025 Hama Film Leader Retriever 35mm $13.95 Sekonic SKL188 401188 Sekonic L-188 Auto-Leader - Analogue Ambient Reflected Light Meter #401-188 $64.95 Adorama BLFLR B252 Adorama Film Leader Retriever 35mm $4.95 Adorama BLFP NPFLR-5328 Adorama Film Picker Plastic, Oversize Film Leader Retreiver $9.95 Regards, Gary You need a light tight room or change bag or dark room under a jacket. Take a can opener and open the cassette. Feed the film through the slot. Snap the end back on and your all set. "drhowarddrfinedrhoward" <drhowarddrfine@sbcglobal.net> > You need a light tight room or change bag or dark room under a jacket. Take > a can opener and open the cassette. Feed the film through the slot. Snap > the end back on and your all set. Er, I haven't seen film come from the manufacturer in a 'Snap Cap cassette' in the last 50(?) years [famous last words, I know]. If you pop the end off you will most likely not be able to pop it back on. I would buy a retriever from a camera store if the need is steady. Otherwise, as suggested an Boots that does film processing will be able to pull it out for you. They pull the tongue out on every film they process. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ I could be wrong then. I haven't had that done in many years and only assumed you still could. > I could be wrong then. I haven't had that done in many years and only > assumed you still could. Now _that_ statement is open to a great deal of interpretation. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. > I could be wrong then. I haven't had that done in many years and only > assumed you still could. The major brands haven't had the uncrimped caps which are easy to remove and replace for many years now, but I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Lucky SHD 100 film I got recently does have the snap caps. When I took my first roll to the darkroom, I tapped the knob end on the counter and it came apart perfectly. I'm going to re-use the cartridges for bulk loading, they actually seem to be better made than the Kalt brand ones sold for bulk-loading. The PRC-made Lucky black-and-white film isn't bad either. The Maco PO-100 cartridges also come apart easily, but the steel seems to be a little soft so that they get deformed easily and can sometimes be hard to put back together. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net [---] >The PRC-made Lucky >black-and-white film isn't bad either. Where do you buy it? > [---] > >>The PRC-made Lucky >>black-and-white film isn't bad either. > > Where do you buy it? I got mine from the ebay seller "monogoods". Price for 10 rolls of 36exp was $9.99 + $10.00 shipping. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net Retrieving a leader: 1) Wind the film in the lost leader cassette until you hear it just "click" past the leader slot, then turn it a tiny amount more. 2) Take another roll of film one that has the leader out, lick the leader to wet it. 3) Put the second leader inside the slot of the first as far as you can. Make sure the natural "curve" of the films are both inward toward the spool. 4) Start winding the first cassette and gently pushing the second leader in, until you pull the second cassette leader in about two or three inches. Until "it takes" in other words. (If it doesn't take the first time go back to step 1.) 5) Gently pull the leader of the second cassette while unwinding the first to ease the lost leader out. 6) The two leaders stick together because of your saliva and the fact that they overlap each other by a couple of inches, the "retriever" leader is under the "lost" leader during this operation which basically forces the lost leader to follow the other leader outside the slot. Wallah!!! It might take a couple of attempts to begin with but I've always managed to retrieve lost leaders in daylight this way. > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of unexposed > 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do I get it out? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Any helpful answers will be appreciated. On 4/18/2004 12:45 PM CCDee spake thus: > Retrieving a leader: [retrieval method snipped] Congratulations, and thanks: yours is the very first post in this thread that was actually useful to me. In other words, you didn't: 1. Chide me for being such a stupid jerk for losing the leader inside the cassette in the first place. 2. Suggest that I buy a commercially-made retriever (and even give me multiple links to items!), even after I specifically said I didn't want to buy one. 3. Tell me that I could try to take apart the cassette, only to have subsequent posters correct that by saying that most cassettes today won't snap back together (I know this from experience). 4. Tell me about some weird-a.s Chinese film that I'm never likely to use, and how it is in a snap-together cassette. Ain't Usenet grand? >> Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of > unexposed [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> >> Any helpful answers will be appreciated. SignatureI was quickly apprised that an "RSS feed" was not, as I had naively imagined, some new and unspeakable form of sexual debauchery practised by young persons of dubious morality, but a way of providing news articles to the cybernetic publishing moguls of the World Wide Wait so they can fill the airwaves with even more useless drivel. - Cynical shop talk from comp.publish.prepress LOL, your lucky you got a good answer. BTW, this is the technique that I use to retrieve leaders. Cheers > On 4/18/2004 12:45 PM CCDee spake thus: > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >> > >> Any helpful answers will be appreciated. Like my old chemistry teacher said "if you're not part of the solution, you're part of the solvent". Thx. I'll add a bit more to that...sometimes I reverse the retrieval leader so the "trims" are on the same side and match each other, this is contrary to what I said in point 3 of my OP. Cheers. > On 4/18/2004 12:45 PM CCDee spake thus: > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > >> > >> Any helpful answers will be appreciated. > Like my old chemistry teacher said "if you're not part of the solution, > you're part of the solvent". Thx. I'll add a bit more to that...sometimes I > reverse the retrieval leader so the "trims" are on the same side and match > each other, this is contrary to what I said in point 3 of my OP. Cheers. Shouldn't that be "If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the PERCIPITATE"? Geoff. SignatureGeoffrey S. Mendelson gsm@mendelson.com Ah your are (technically) correct squire. Hahahahahahah LMBFAO > > Like my old chemistry teacher said "if you're not part of the solution, > > you're part of the solvent". Thx. I'll add a bit more to that...sometimes I [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Geoff. Technically incorrect - PRECIPITATE FireBall B.Sc. Chemistry - GU'92 > Ah your are (technically) correct squire. Hahahahahahah LMBFAO > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > -- > > Geoffrey S. Mendelson gsm@mendelson.com See my post about the M601 Enlarger - for every one person who helps there are 20 know it all "experts" who don't even bother to read the post properly. > On 4/18/2004 12:45 PM CCDee spake thus: > [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > - Cynical shop talk from comp.publish.prepress David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> schrieb: Subject line adjusted... >Congratulations, and thanks: yours is the very first post in this thread that >was actually useful to me. In other words, you didn't: So? David, I noticed you complaining like this one or more time in the past... get over it. Usenet is only partially problem/solution orientated - if you want fast, prompt and direct answers, pay for it - in the photo gear shop or whatever. Usenet is about extensive exchange of thoughts, of chatting and ranting, of discussions. It´s a give and get. It´s not about demanding something and ranting about "bad service" afterwards. A bit of using the Google search might have helped you. I am offline the WWW at the moment, but I know that there are a few DIY instructions on cutting film into a film retreiver tool. If you can´t tolerate that others are sharing their thoughts with you, you are at the wrong place - even if these thoughts direct to a wrong heading, they are at the appropriate place. They´ll lead off the track, but more than enough interesting discussions or ideas are a result of these - like the "weird a.s Chinese film" and the snap-cap cassettes. BTW, you are using a "weird a.s kroatian film" in sheets that comes with snap off cassettes in 35mm. To give you a clue - I wasn´t aware that Lucky uses the cassettes, the only other producer I know is Fotokemika. Next time I need empty cassettes for bulk loading, I´ll have a look at the prices for Luckypan and Efke and put them into consideration. I know you can stand this off-track discussions from your appreciated participation in "the other list" we both are subscribed to... why not here, too? >1. Chide me for being such a stupid jerk for losing the leader inside the >cassette in the first place. Why did you loose it? Sharing that reason might help us preventing it! >2. Suggest that I buy a commercially-made retriever (and even give me multiple >links to items!), even after I specifically said I didn't want to buy one. So? Why don´t you do yourself and us a favor and spend the 5 bucks for it? If you are not willing to spend it, throw the can away. Period. I tried all tricks and I learned that the retrievers are quite comfortable to use - and they´ll pay off in the end. >3. Tell me that I could try to take apart the cassette, only to have >subsequent posters correct that by saying that most cassettes today won't snap >back together (I know this from experience). As you have noticed, some didn´t know it. now they know. Could it be that you are slightly egocentric? >Ain't Usenet grand? It is. Don´t shoot the messenger... or kick people in the butt for trying to help you. Gruss, Roman Signature"A man should always keep two things in mind: one is that he is a fool; the other is that he is going to die." (Gurdijew) > David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> schrieb: > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > As you have noticed, some didn´t know it. now they know. Well, for whatever it's worth, I'm one of those who suggested opening the cassette and rethreading the film. I suggested it only because I've done it, with new 400TX, for exactly that reason -- due to a loading error, I'd wound the leader back into an unexposed cassette, and I'm too cheap to pitch $4 worth of perfectly good film that was already destined for an experiment. In addition, I'd been examining a cassette from which I'd developed the (20+ year old) Plus-X, and noting exactly what was necessary to reclose the cassette. So, I put the film, a "church key" type bottle opener, and my hands in my changing bag, very gently and carefully worked off the cassette cap at the short end of the spool, found the end of the film and threaded it through the felts, and then (this is the tricky part) aligned the cap all the way around before pressing it *firmly* back in place. The film, when developed, had two small areas that showed fogging; neither area intruded into the image frame, and I suspect the camera was at fault in any case; it was a junker P&S that I've never used prior, but there had to be a reason it was at Value Village when I paid $1 for it. And I did this just a few weeks ago, so it's not a case of the cassettes changing since -- current manufacture Kodak cassettes can be opened and reclosed, though I will admit it's easy to bend the cap or cassette shell and leave yourself with a handful of film and no place to put it (had I cared that much, I'd have put a stainless daylight tank in the bag, too, to use as a temporary film safe should a problem arise). In fact, I've reclosed a couple other cassettes recently, though I haven't done it again with unexposed film inside and later processed the film; in front of me right now I have a Kodak Select BWC (C-41 B&W) cassette and a Rave 200 color cassette (one the source of a fixed-out strip, the other a scrap film for loading and advance tests), as well as the 1979-1981 vintage Plus-X and the 400TX cassettes that I've reclosed. I'll soon find out how well I can do it -- I've just bought two 100 foot rolls of old Tri-X (TX) and I'll be bulk loading them, probably reusing a few of the 400TX cassettes I have left from recent shooting and processing (though I do also have half a dozen new cassettes made specifically for bulk loading, and plan to get more). For that, at least, I'll have the luxury of being able to see what I'm doing when I reclose the cassette. SignatureI may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. > ... - like the "weird a.s Chinese film" ... btw i assume you are talking about Lucky film? i saw it sold bulk for 30$ 60m (200ft) 100iso is it "classic" bw film? (not c41) are there any other iso rates - 200, 400, ....? > ... using a "weird a.s kroatian film" ... i'm using "weird a.s chech film" - fomapan but my 100iso can is running out & i don't want to change to 400iso -- ian green Xeto : photo & graphic project : http://xeto.front.ru photo galleries @ BlurryImage : http://www.blurryimage.com/user/ian%20green selected photography : http://ian_green.photosight.ru/ . EOF >> ... - like the "weird a.s Chinese film" ... > > btw i assume you are talking about Lucky film? > i saw it sold bulk for 30$ 60m (200ft) 100iso > is it "classic" bw film? (not c41) > are there any other iso rates - 200, 400, ....? Lucky make SHD100, SHD400 and SHD400 CN. I imagine the 400 CN film is C41, SHD 100 is definitely regular B&W film. Instructions for D-76 are inside the box. I can't read Chinese, but if I see "D-76" and a set of times and temperatures it is pretty obvious what to do. The film has an unusually clear base for 35mm film. The grain seems about normal for a conventional 100 speed film. I know that Kodak has been doing some technology sharing with Lucky, but the film does not resemble anything Kodak makes. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net > Lucky make SHD100,... > > The film has an unusually clear base for 35mm film. Lucky is just an old single coat thick emulsion film not needing any antihalation treatment in the base. Most modern film has a grey dye in the plastic base to prevent halation. Additional anti-halation dyes are placed under emulsion and in the film's backcoating. The emulsion and back side dyes either come out in the developing process or the dyes are made transparent by the developer. It sounds like Lucky doesn't use a dyed film base. If the emulsion looks the same back and front (ie, light grey from the back instead of dark grey) then antihalation dye was not placed under the emulsion. If you can't scrape a thin layer of gelatin off the back of the film then the chances are no dye was used there either. In old thick emulsion films the emulsion was dense enough that light didn't get through. Films meant for projection, microfilm and lithography have clear base. If you look at old negatives they are invariably clear (if they haven't turned yellow). I hope this is OT enough for the OP. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. >> Lucky make SHD100,... >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > prevent halation. Additional anti-halation dyes are > placed under emulsion and in the film's backcoating. It is about 18% grey both sides, so it is pretty primitive stuff. The back is the same colour as my grey card, the front a hair lighter. It does seem to make decent pictures, though. If the emulsion is so thick, how come it develops in 6.5 minutes at 20C in d-76? I thought the old films took rather longer than this. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net > It does seem to make decent pictures, though. If the emulsion is > so thick, how come it develops in 6.5 minutes at 20C in d-76? > I thought the old films took rather longer than this. afaik fomapan 100 @ d76 @ 20C -- 6-7 mins fomapan 400 @d76 @ 20C -- 7-8 mins tasma 100 @ d76 @ 20C -- 6-7 mins -- ian green Xeto : photo & graphic project : http://xeto.front.ru photo galleries @ BlurryImage : http://www.blurryimage.com/user/ian%20green selected photography : http://ian_green.photosight.ru/ . EOF >> It does seem to make decent pictures, though. If the emulsion is >> so thick, how come it develops in 6.5 minutes at 20C in d-76? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > fomapan 400 @d76 @ 20C -- 7-8 mins > tasma 100 @ d76 @ 20C -- 6-7 mins Interesting. Is there anyone who exports Tasma film from Russia? It is kind of fun to sample all of the films out there, but I've never seen Tasma film. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net > Interesting. Is there anyone who exports Tasma film from Russia? > It is kind of fun to sample all of the films out there, but I've > never seen Tasma film. the full name is tasma 100 super (snp 100 135-36) their address is tasma-holding 420095 kazan russia i think it is a little contrasty compared to fomapan 100 some examples are here http://xeto.front.ru/winter0304/m5tst06x16.html http://xeto.front.ru/winter0304/m5tst06x17.html http://xeto.front.ru/winter0304/m5tst06x20.html http://xeto.front.ru/winter0304/m5tst06x32.html http://xeto.front.ru/winter0304/m5tst06x34.html locally (moscow) it is being sold sometimes in recycled fuji casettes ;) no datasheets are available or i just can't find them there's also svema brand too used it more then 15 years ago still available but i don't use it so can't comment -- ian green Xeto : photo & graphic project : http://xeto.front.ru photo galleries @ BlurryImage : http://www.blurryimage.com/user/ian%20green selected photography : http://ian_green.photosight.ru/ . EOF Just wanted to be ready in case I ever run into that problem. Regards, John S. Douglas, Photographer - http://www.darkroompro.com Please remove the "_" when replying via email > Just wanted to be ready in case I ever run into that problem. ooh! ooh! Call on me! I know the answer! To retrieve the leader of 5x7, offer him a Guinneess! Right, John? Roman J. Rohleder <rjrgroups7@gmx.net> schrieb: >A bit of using the Google search might have helped you. I am offline >the WWW at the moment, but I know that there are a few DIY >instructions on cutting film into a film retreiver tool. Got one within 2 minutes after I started searching. "Film Retriever DIY 35mm" at Google sent me to Markus Keinaths link collection where this one was mentioned: http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/text-retriever.html >Gruss, Roman Gruss, Roman Signature"A man should always keep two things in mind: one is that he is a fool; the other is that he is going to die." (Gurdijew) SignatureOtzi > Retrieving a leader: > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > It might take a couple of attempts to begin with but I've always managed to > retrieve lost leaders in daylight this way. Have use this method for years. I carry a 4-5 inch piece in my camera bag for just those moments. I found it works just fine dry. BRILLIANT! I just recovered several rolls that way... Thanks! Chris > Retrieving a leader: > [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >> >>Any helpful answers will be appreciated. On 4/18/2004 12:45 PM CCDee spake thus: > Retrieving a leader: > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > 3) Put the second leader inside the slot of the first as far as you can. > Make sure the natural "curve" of the films are both inward toward the spool. [...] Well, I tried your method, but it didn't work for me. Maybe it's my saliva, I don't know; but when I wet the leader of the 2nd film, I couldn't even get it to go into the cassette through the light trap. So I guess I'm going to take it down to the drugstore and ask the photo people if they can pull it out for me. Too bad; it sounded like such a sweet simple idea. SignatureI was quickly apprised that an "RSS feed" was not, as I had naively imagined, some new and unspeakable form of sexual debauchery practised by young persons of dubious morality, but a way of providing news articles to the cybernetic publishing moguls of the World Wide Wait so they can fill the airwaves with even more useless drivel. - Cynical shop talk from comp.publish.prepress > > Retrieving a leader: > > > > 1) Wind the film in the lost leader cassette until you hear it just "click" > > past the leader slot, then turn it again until just before it "clicks". The leader is just below the light trap. 3. Insert a 3" piece of dymo type label tape about 3/4-1" into the cassette, sticky side down or facing the film (where the leader would be). You might have to wiggle it a bit. 4. Reverse wind or expand the film in the cassette. This should set the film against the tape. 5. Now try to wind the tape slowly into the cassette, if the tape starts to move it has probably caught the film leader and you can pull the tape out along with the film. You might have to try several times. But if you have to buy the label tape you might as well buy the leader retriever instead. Patrick > 3. Insert a 3" piece of dymo type label tape about 3/4-1" into the ... > But if you have to buy the label tape you might as well buy the leader > retriever instead. While you're out buying either or both, stop by the minilab and have the vacuous cutie retrieve it for you. Debate good naturedly with her about whom is more stupid. On 4/24/2004 3:12 PM MikeWhy spake thus: >> 3. Insert a 3" piece of dymo type label tape about 3/4-1" into the > ... [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > vacuous cutie retrieve it for you. Debate good naturedly with her about whom > is more stupid. Didja hear about the blond secretary seen walking around with a tampon behind her ear? "Dang, I know I had that pencil just a minute ago!" SignatureI was quickly apprised that an "RSS feed" was not, as I had naively imagined, some new and unspeakable form of sexual debauchery practised by young persons of dubious morality, but a way of providing news articles to the cybernetic publishing moguls of the World Wide Wait so they can fill the airwaves with even more useless drivel. - Cynical shop talk from comp.publish.prepress > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of > unexposed 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Any helpful answers will be appreciated. I've done this by popping the end off the cassette (inside my changing bag, of course) using a church key bottle opener *very gently* to avoid bending the top, and then reinserting the film spool with the leader correctly threaded through the felt and reclosing the cassette. I've heard many warnings about light tightness of resealed commercial cassettes, but on the 400TX on which I did it, there was no problem. Of course, if the film is bulk loaded to begin with, this is probably easier than using a retreiver anyway. The retrievers I've seen are two thin tongues of metal, that spring slightly apart as well as being curved. They're fed in on the leader side (with the longer spool protrusion), far enough for the two layers to spring apart, the spool rotated reverse from rewinding to push the leader between, and then the retriever pulled back (while continuing to gently push via the spool) so that the closing leaves grip the film and guide it through the felts. You could probably make one from a couple pieces of .010" brass or stainless strip from the hobby shop. There are versions that include a hook or tooth to grip the perforations, but I don't see it as necessary if the retriever is the same width as the leader (to keep the leader from hanging on the inside of the felts). SignatureI may be a scwewy wabbit, but I'm not going to Alcatwaz! -- E. J. Fudd, 1954 Donald Qualls, aka The Silent Observer Lathe Building Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/HomebuiltLathe.htm Speedway 7x12 Lathe Pages http://silent1.home.netcom.com/my7x12.htm Opinions expressed are my own -- take them for what they're worth and don't expect them to be perfect. > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of unexposed > 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do I get it out? 1. Wind the film tighlty. 2. Take a piece of "junk film" and round off any sharp edges. 3. Place a strip of double sided tape on the emuslsion side of the junk film. Use the thin kind (like regular scotch tape with two sticky sides), NOT the wide mounting kind. 4, Slide the film into the cassete until the double sided tape is in. 5. Unwind the film to push it against the tape. 6. Gently pull out junk film with leader stuck to it. Note it helps if the tape is on the edge of the film where the tounge is cut if your film has one. Geoff. SignatureGeoffrey S. Mendelson gsm@mendelson.com > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of > unexposed 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Any helpful answers will be appreciated. It may be too obvious, but use a bottle opener to remove the end cap. Then remove the spool and film. Do this in a dark room or inside a changing bag. Bert There are several brands of film leader retrievers on the market. Most are quite inexpensive, and they generally work. Kodak recommends a method that I have used and have found reliable. Take a piece of unembosed Dymo lettering tape (any similar stiff, plastic, adhesive-backed labeling tape will probably do) about 4 or 5 inches long. Remove the backing to expose the adhesive, and insert the end into the cassette with the adhesive toward the film roll. Push it in until the adhesive sticks to the film. Twist the spool end to rewind the film so that it drags the labeling tape into the cassette. When you have 2 or 3 inches in the cassette, pull the labeling tape out, and the film leader will follow. > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of unexposed > 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do I get it out? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Any helpful answers will be appreciated. I just use 2 pieces of paper about 3/4" wide and 3" long. Push one in about 1.5". Take the 2nd one and bend the end down to about 45 degrees. Then push that bent end in just beyond the light trap. Turn the spool slowly until you hear film end click first off the light trap and then off the end of the paper. Then reverse direction and the film leader goes between the two pieces of paper. It won't go through the light trap because of tension, but you can just pull the paper out and bring the end with it. Nice thing about doing it this way is that you don't have to fuss with saliva affecting developer or "expensive" tools to retrieve the end. :) Collin > Well, I done it again; through sheer skill, I have *another* roll of unexposed > 35mm film with the leader inside the can. Now how the hell do I get it out? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Any helpful answers will be appreciated. |
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