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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / April 2004First attempt at B&W reversal
Hi, I've made my first attempt at B&W reversal processing using the Celer Reverser kit with Ilford Delta 100. For a first go I was pleasently surprised, however things are not quite spot on, not unexpected for a first go. Firstly I get some staining on the transparencies, this is a sepia colour in patches, mainly in dark areas. Am I right in thinking that this is due to insufficient washing after the blix stage? Secondly, although the overal I seem to have reasonably good contrast* the blacks are somewhat muddy and uneven, as also ca be witnessed from the bit of unexposed film from inside the cassette. Am I correct in assuming that I need to both increase the second development time a bit with increased agitation plus expose the film to light for a greater time / more intensity before the secod development. * When exposed with a suitable subject! Thanks. Pete  Signaturepete@petezilla.co.uk http://www.petezilla.co.uk Nothing works better than Technical Pan for contrast in BW Reversal. I much prefer it to Scala. > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Pete > Nothing works better than Technical Pan for contrast in BW Reversal. I much > prefer it to Scala. A fairly rare film given that I don't often see it available and it is sitting in the speciallist area of the Silverprint website. I suspect that it is still a processing problem I am having rather than a film type problem. I do note from this and a previous roll of Scala that B&W slides really sort the men from the boys when taking photographs - the contrast of the scene photographed is plainly obvious and there is no colour to distract from this. Signaturepete@petezilla.co.uk http://www.petezilla.co.uk > "John Walton" <jdwalton@comcast.net> wrote: > > Nothing works better than Technical Pan for contrast in BW Reversal. I much > > prefer it to Scala. > > A fairly rare film given that I don't often see it available and it is > sitting in the speciallist area of the Silverprint website. Rare film? Besides having a full freezer of the stuff in the kitchen, it is available at any photo store. > pete@petezilla.co.uk Ah, UK, that explains it. I can't see Bill Brandt shooting TechPan either. SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ > Nothing works better than Technical Pan for contrast in BW Reversal. I much > prefer it to Scala. On a similar note, has anyone tried making slides using Kodak fine grain release posative? According to the website it is used for makeing motion picture prints from negatives. Signaturepete@petezilla.co.uk http://www.petezilla.co.uk > In article <OYadnXSx7o3Il-Ld4p2dnA@comcast.com>, > > On a similar note, has anyone tried making slides using Kodak fine > grain release positive? According to the website it is used for making > motion picture prints from negatives. I have done it a few times. I found that the method of making contact prints with a Leitz Eldia is excessively prone to dust problems. This is too bad because the slides look really good apart from the dust. Maybe if I could make my darkroom into a clean room, it would be glorious. Next time I try, I'm going to shoot the FGRP in camera and use a macro lens and light table. Peter. Signaturepirwin@ktb.net > > In article <OYadnXSx7o3Il-Ld4p2dnA@comcast.com>, > > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Peter. This is the technique I mostly use: making a high-contrast negative of the original negative, that gives a slide. You lose something in the duplication but you keep your original negative. http://www.bonavolta.ch/hobby/en/photo/slidesbw.htm SignatureClaudio Bonavolta http://www.bonavolta.ch >>Nothing works better than Technical Pan for contrast in BW Reversal. I much >>prefer it to Scala. > > On a similar note, has anyone tried making slides using Kodak fine > grain release posative? According to the website it is used for makeing > motion picture prints from negatives. Claudio's post is great and he has lots of useful info on his web page. I have a page with similar information though not in as much detail, I think: http://web.mit.edu/jwosnick/www/BWslides.html I've used the Eastman 5302 (fine grain release positive) film quite a bit. It works well. I use it with a slide-duplicator attachment for my SLR. The film goes into my SLR, the slide-duplicator mounts on the camera, the negative to be re-photographed goes in the slide-duplicator and the whole thing gets mounted on a tripod and aimed at a bright, even light source (I use a little light-box). The film gets developed in paper developer. It works fairly well. As for your muddy blacks problem, without knowing the process in your particular kit (which I've not heard of before) it's hard to diagnose. A couple of months ago, I cooked up a reversal process based on a first developer made by spiking working-strength HC-110 with various additives. I had a hard time judging the light re-exposure and eventually went to chemical fogging with an odourless sepia toner (based on thiourea). The results were great with Pan F Plus -- beautiful chocolatey-brown tones. With light re-exposure I would often get solarization (for lack of a better word). Any more questions, just e-mail me. > Claudio's post is great and he has lots of useful info on his web page. > I have a page with similar information though not in as much detail, I > think: http://web.mit.edu/jwosnick/www/BWslides.html Auseful bunch of posts, thanks. It looks like investigating making slides from negs might be interesting. > As for your muddy blacks problem, without knowing the process in your > particular kit (which I've not heard of before) it's hard to diagnose. A [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > chocolatey-brown tones. With light re-exposure I would often get > solarization (for lack of a better word). I'm not sure what the developer uses, but the blix uses some acid and potassium permaginate. I think I will try increasing the fogging time, I assume you cannot over fog. I think I will try to increase the second development and also agitation and see what happens. Pete Signaturepete@petezilla.co.uk http://www.petezilla.co.uk > I'm not sure what the developer uses, but the blix uses some acid and > potassium permaginate. I think I will try increasing the fogging time, > I assume you cannot over fog. I think I will try to increase the second > development and also agitation and see what happens. Peter -- Technically, it isn't a blix (bleach-fix), it's just a bleach with no fixing power. The permanganate oxidizes metallic silver to silver sulfate in acid media. Silver sulfate is water-soluble and dissolves out of the film emulsion. The undeveloped silver halide remains and it is this silver halide that the fogging step re-exposes. If it were a blix, it would dissolve the halide as well and you'd be left with blank film. Anyway, you CAN over-fog, and it tends to make a solarization-like effect (like turning on the lights during film development). I managed to do this myself. Going to the chemical fogging agent (I use sepia but there are also ones that give a neutral tone) solved my problem. Jordan > Peter -- Technically, it isn't a blix (bleach-fix), it's just a bleach > with no fixing power. The permanganate oxidizes metallic silver to [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > If it were a blix, it would dissolve the halide as well and you'd be > left with blank film. OK, the instrucrtions call it a blix. > Anyway, you CAN over-fog, and it tends to make a solarization-like > effect (like turning on the lights during film development). I managed > to do this myself. Going to the chemical fogging agent (I use sepia but > there are also ones that give a neutral tone) solved my problem. OK, so I will try to increase the fogging but only by a bit. Signaturepete@petezilla.co.uk http://www.petezilla.co.uk |
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