I have the same enlarger.

Yes, if the Conic Light Integrator is attached, it is setup for condensor
mode.  You can use this to print both B&W and color and I do exactly this.

The hex-cell diffuser goes in place of the Conic Light Integrator.  You
then also need to replace the condensor glass assembly with the diffuser
assembly.

My advice?  Don't bother trying to find the hex-cell and diffuser
assembly unless you really really want it. I have tried both setups and
actually prefer the condensor. My B&W prints seem snappier and require
less development time (reducing grain).  For color, you don't get these
benefits.  The only benefit you get is shorter printing times as the light
from the condensor is much more intense.  This does allow you to use
smaller apertures on your enlarging lens though which might be a benefit
for you (and makes enlarger alignment less critical).

People say that the diffuser reduces effects of dust and other defects.  I
didn't notice the difference really.  Dust effected me in both setups and
the diffuser didn't do any magic for me.  

I'm not sure.  I have heat absorbing glass.  For one, you won't be using
printing filters so heat won't effect them.  But I'm not sure about
negative popping.  Hopefully someone can provide you this answer.  

--Mike

This URL should be of help:  http://www.beselerphoto.com/photofront.html

You've gotten some good info already and I'll only add from a similar
sequence I went through a few years ago when I bought a Dual Dichro
head for my trusty old 23CII.

I had been using an Aristo cold light for many years and decided to
buy a dichro head when I saw they were so affordable on the auction
site.  Mine came with a light integrator but it wasn't attached and
still in the box.  Mine didn't come with the diffusers and I simply
used the milk glass cover from my just-removed Aristo.  I was lucky as
it gave me almost perfect evenness of light and retained much of the
light output.  I shoot mostly medium format, my paper exposures run
from 8 to 20 seconds but when printing 35mm, I can be up in the 30
second range at times.

In retrospect, I'm glad I ended up with the Dichro as I now have it
tuned and find it very intuitive to use.  I see less dust spot issues
and tweaking in just the right contrast can make or break certain
negatives.  Once you get it sorted out, I think you'll like it.

PS-  The upper bellows position can make more difference on even
illumination that you might initially guess and I've found it safer to
keep it compressed down for most everything.