The first problem is that while you think you are getting lots of colors,
you only get 256 of them in grayscale. 24 bit color is 256 levels or red,
256 levels of green and 256 levels of blue.

Since gray is the same level for each color, that only gives you 256 levels
of gray. If you scanner can support higher color resolutions scan in color
using the higher resolution. If you wish to save space, you can convert
the file to grayscale using photoshop or the GIMP, or a similar program.

Second make sure that any dust or scratch reduction software isturned
off. They work by making a fourth scan of the negative in infra-red. A
color negative will scan as translucent except for dust (black) and
scratches (clear), while a silver based monochome negative will scan as
grayscale.

Make sure to scan at the highest resolution you scanner can actually
scan at. Avoid "interpolated" resolutions, they create false data.

Remember that almost any film you have will appear to the eye as having
more gray levels than any scanner will be able to discern. Unless you have a
very carefully controled contrast negative, you have to give up something,
either highlight/shadow detail or contrast range. Trying to recreate it
photoshop is just a waste and creates false information.

The same is with a digital print. No digital printer has the range of film.
A laser based photographic printer, i.e. one that prints on silver based
paper, will have better range than an ink-jet, but it's still not going to
be the same as a "real" print.

I've found that the best results I have had are from scanning a negative
as a slide and then inverting it in the GIMP.

With that said, I've been able to produce good prints from a 35mm negative,
scanned with a 1200 dpi scanner and printed on a 720dpi printer. Close up
they look lousy, viewed at the "normal viewing distance" (about 1 foot for
an 8x10 print) they look fine at A4.

You also can get better results if you print on a higher resolution printer
in color. That way you can adjust the tone of the ink to resemble your
favorite print paper. Using black ink only forces you to the color of
black your ink manufacturer decides is correrct. IMHO it's usually too
magenta, in the 10-20cc range.

Geoff.

See if my discussions about scanning B&W negatives will help you.
You don't say what the resolution of your scanner is, but you really
need at least 1500 dpi for a 5x7 inch print. (1500/300 = 5x
enlargement). It seems doubtful you are seeing grain. If you are
printing on a medium quality printer and only using the black ink you
may be seeing a similar effect due to the lack of enough tonal steps.
Printing in color mode may help. I have a discussion of this as well.
Follow the tips link on my home page..

I also have never make a good scan from a negative color or otherwise but my
slides always looked great.  So I got this crazy idea of contacting B&W
negatives onto litho film and process in Dektol to make a positive slide.  Then
I scan that.  Best scans are low contrast slides resulting by pulling the lith
film out of the Dektol in less then 1 minute.

I get really great looking 8x12 B&W Kodak dye sub prints at 5MB. Ten MB if I am
using a color ribbon which is tricky.

Larry

If you plan on processing all of your negatives this way, you should
process the negatives in such a way as to reduce the dynamic range
(contrast) on the negative (less time in the developer - or colder
temp).  The problem is that most good b&w film will allow for a DMAX
of approx 3 - 3.6 - which is a ratio in density between the darkest
and lightest parts of the negative of anywhere from 1000:1 to 4000:1 -
the film scanner is probably 8 bits per colour, which means that when
scanning b&w it has an ability to see a ratio in density of 256:1, so
when you scan the negative, you lose a lot of the information that is
there.

Paper prints have a maximum density ratio of about 100:1 - which is
one reason that we spend time in the darkroom burning and dodging -
there is more ability for the negative to hold more detail than there
is for the paper to display it, so we select what to emphasize when we
print - your scanner is not so smart.  

I personally do not bother trying to scan B&W negatives, if I need an
electronic version of a B&W image, I will print it in the darkroom,
then scan the print. - I do scan my colour transparancies, and have
much better luck with those.

Mark

    The secret is that it can't be done.

Regards,

  John S. Douglas, Photographer -  http://www.darkroompro.com
             Please remove the "_" when replying via email

I've had some reasonable success with 35mm black and white scans, but not
nearly as good of results as with MF.  To a lesser extent, the same goes for
color.  I use a Minolta Dimage Scan Multi at 2820 dpi in black and white
mode.  I suspect a good scanner is very important here.  The biggest problem
with black and white scans is printing.  One or two black inks just doesn't
hack it!  The HP7960, with three balcks, gives passable black and white
prints, but not quite darkroom quality.  I have seen some excellent black
and white prints from scans professionally printed with four to six black
inks.