DO NOT use the rod.
Agitate EXACTLY as I describe here:
1. Fill the tank with plain water at the same temperature as the
developer, and lett sit for 5 minutes or so.
2. Empty the tank and fill with developer almost to the top of the
tank. Leave a little room in the neck of the lid.
3. Begin inverting the tank, along with with a twisting action.
Agitate this way for 20 seconds, then drop the tank from a height of 2
inches onto a double thickness of bath towel. This will cushion the
tank against breakage.
4. At the beginning of each minute, invert the tank with rotation
TWICE, and no more. Rotate twice in immediate succesion, then drop the
tank from a height of 2 inches as before described.
5. About 30-45 seconds before the time is due to expire, begin
emptying the tank and fill with stop bath, then fix and wash.
You WILL NOT have any streaks.
> DO NOT use the rod.
>
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>
> You WILL NOT have any streaks.
If you do this method, its true, you won't have any streaks, because
you forgot to put the film in the tank, following his directions
EXACTLY, as he said to do! LOL!!!
and be sure to have your ruler handy to get that 2" EXACTLY!
You kill me Michael!
LOL!
And to Dr.Bob, your theory is correct, but only in part. While true
in and of itself that agitation "is necessary to remove reaction
products from the emulsion and replace it with fresh reactants",
agitation also controls contrast, and to an extent, density, but
contrast mostly. You can get rid of the surge/density by the method I
described above.
Alexis
www.alexisneel.com
BertS - 29 Mar 2004 02:03 GMT
>>DO NOT use the rod.
>>
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>
> You kill me Michael!
And shaking a tank filled with developer with no lid on is sure to spread
developer far and wide.
Darn, forgot to reset my killfile after changing software versions...
Bert
> DO NOT use the rod.
I agree, I have also gotten bad results when trying the rod.
> Agitate EXACTLY as I describe here:
No, agitate exactly the way you want. People are here only giving other
options to try. Some are good advice, some are bad. Pick the best :)
> 1. Fill the tank with plain water at the same temperature as the
> developer, and lett sit for 5 minutes or so.
Pre-soaking is not recommended (for 35mm and 120) by major film
manufacturers like Kodak and Ilford. This is mainly because of anti
foaming coatings.
> 2. Empty the tank and fill with developer almost to the top of the
> tank. Leave a little room in the neck of the lid.
If you don't fill it to the top, the air itself will act as a "stirrer"
and less shaking is needed when agitating. But both methods work
probably decently.
> 3. Begin inverting the tank, along with with a twisting action.
> Agitate this way for 20 seconds, then drop the tank from a height of 2
> inches onto a double thickness of bath towel. This will cushion the
> tank against breakage.
Bad advice. Dropping tanks is not a good way to handle your equipment -
even from 2". And anyone ever trying to remove bubbles from water in a
glass knows that the best way is to tap it gently to a _hard_ surface:
fast impulse is the key here. Towels make the impulse slow and bubbles
won't come off so easily.
> 4. At the beginning of each minute, invert the tank with rotation
> TWICE, and no more. Rotate twice in immediate succesion, then drop the
> tank from a height of 2 inches as before described.
Even one rotation will suffice if there is some air left inside. Usually
the wisest thing to do is to make things as simple as possible without
compromising the end result.
> 5. About 30-45 seconds before the time is due to expire, begin
> emptying the tank and fill with stop bath, then fix and wash.
It doesn't matter at all where you start/stop the watch: when pouring
the developer in/out or after it is allready filled/empty. Just do
everything allways the same way and the results will be consistent.
Actually it is the easiest to start first the watch, then pour in,
develop, finally start the emptying when the time is up.
Severi