I had my first experience with Ilfochrome printing
last night. Followed Ilford's instructions to the
letter, used my CPE-2 processor (EBay, y'know...),
and got decent prints from the start. They just look
a little funny because the borders around the edges
are black, not white.
My motivation was the poor quality of commercial
prints I had gotten from slides. Developing slide
film is dead easy; so far, printing it holds no
terrors either. I used the filter pack on the paper
package, and it looks about right. Maybe a touch
too yellow. Have to do some more prints to be sure.
The Ilford P30 instructions mention that the chemistry
may generate sulfur dioxide during processing. They're
not kidding. Phew!
Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre
Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Frank N. Stein - 21 Mar 2004 20:20 GMT
> I had my first experience with Ilfochrome printing
> last night. Followed Ilford's instructions to the
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
One comment, if you are attempting color printing the first time
a grey card shot will help you determine if the filteration is correct.
You calibrate your system, and save the print once perfect for future
reference. You print the slide each time and compare the two prints
that way you will know if things like your bulb temperature is changing.

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Laura Halliday - 22 Mar 2004 00:59 GMT
> One comment, if you are attempting color printing the first time
> a grey card shot will help you determine if the filteration is correct.
>
> You calibrate your system, and save the print once perfect for future
> reference. You print the slide each time and compare the two prints
> that way you will know if things like your bulb temperature is changing.
Yep. For initial messing around and seeing how things
worked my first test was a picture of a bird - with a
white head and grey feathers - sitting in a tree. At
first I thought I'd blown it because while the bird
was indeed white and the sky behind it was blue, the
leaves on the tree were yellowish-green. But when I
compared it to the slide I knew it was OK, and then
realized too that in the dry season in Costa Rica,
few trees have green leaves...
My other test was an astronomical shot, a wide-field
picture of Orion. The stars are (mostly) white, with
Betelgeuse and Rigel showing distinct colour. The
Orion nebula is the correct colour too, reddish-pink
on E200.
The Ilfochrome "paper" is strange feeling stuff. Reminds
me of Australian money.
Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre
Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Jim Phelps - 21 Mar 2004 22:11 GMT
> I had my first experience with Ilfochrome printing
> last night. Followed Ilford's instructions to the
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Laura,
You'll get the sulpher dioxide when the bleach and fixer mix. Carry over
is enough from step to step. If you contaminate the bleach with the fixer,
you can throw it out. My experience shows even the least amount of fixer
landing into the bleach destroys the bleach, but then again, I use P-3
chemistry.
The one thing you'll note is that the prints will be rather high
contrast. The only way around it is to mask. I've changed my habits and
only use slide film for those places where high contrast is desirable, and
then print on Ilfochrome. I love the prints. You're right, it's not hard,
just expensive.
Jim
LEDMRVM - 22 Mar 2004 02:43 GMT
> The one thing you'll note is that the prints will be rather high
>contrast.
Ilfochrome is available in three contrast grades - "Regular" which is probably
best defined as very high, "Medium" which I define as high, and "Low" which I
define as Medium. I find that nearly all slides which are of normal contrast
print well on the low contrast version. YMMV.
Ed
Ed Margiewicz - 22 Mar 2004 02:50 GMT
Hi Laura,
I too have found the recommended settings on the ilfochrome pack to be too
yellow. I have found from my experience that most of my prints do well with
an initial settings of minus 15 units of yellow and plus 5 units of cyan. I
emphasize this is for my taste and for most of my prints but not all. I
also feel, as the previous post stated, that masking most slides would be
very helpful to decrease contrast. Masking is making a b&w neg of the slide
by exposing it in direct contact with the slide then developing it. The
print is then made with the slide and b&w neg sandwiched together. If you
like, check out my website: WWW.tranquilimages.com. It is strictly an
amateur site. All my images are ilfochrome prints most of which has been
masked. Hope this helps.
Regards,
Ed Margiewicz
> I had my first experience with Ilfochrome printing
> last night. Followed Ilford's instructions to the
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Laura Halliday - 28 Mar 2004 02:48 GMT
> Hi Laura,
> I too have found the recommended settings on the ilfochrome pack to be too
> yellow. I have found from my experience that most of my prints do well with
> an initial settings of minus 15 units of yellow and plus 5 units of cyan...
I tried another batch of prints the other night,
backing the yellow off 10 units, and the cyan off by 5.
The results are *nice*. They have a lot of that reach-
in-and-touch-them feeling of good black and white prints.
Films: Fuji Provia 400 and Velvia 50 (picked from the
selection at the camera store), shot in a Pentax 67,
developed in my bathroom in Agfa chemistry (because
that's what they had at the camera store).
This is gonna be fun.
Laura Halliday VE7LDH "Que les nuages soient notre
Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
martin visser - 08 Apr 2004 10:36 GMT
> > Hi Laura,
> > I too have found the recommended settings on the ilfochrome pack to be too
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Grid: CN89mg pied a terre..."
> ICBM: 49 16.05 N 122 56.92 W - Hospital/Shafte
Hi Laura,
I have two books about Cibachrome (Ilfochrome) for sale on the e-Bay.nl site.
Maybe it can help you?
Regards
martin visser
the netherlands
L. R. Kalajainen - 12 Apr 2004 12:58 GMT
I've been away from Ilfochrome printing for several years. Now I'm ready
to get back into it, but some things seem to have changed.
I've always mixed my own developer--a phenidone, Vit. C formulation in a
divided formula that gave me wonderful contrast control and sparkling
colors, but now the prints are a little muddy. Has Ilford changed the
emulsions on their papers (I often used the Pearl surface RC)?
Any tips on changes to the materials over the past three or four years
would be appreciated.
Larry
>> > Hi Laura,
>> > I too have found the recommended settings on the ilfochrome pack to
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> martin visser
> the netherlands

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