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Photo Forum / Film Photography / Darkroom / April 2004color drum problems!
I feel embarrassed for asking this: I acquired a Cibachrome Mark II Color Processing Drum to try room temp. RA-4 printing. The drum has 2 end caps. One appears to be the bottom one and it has 4 holes. The top cap appears to be the funnel to pour liquids in. There is a disk that says "This Side Up", and finally a cup with gears on the lip. How do I use this? I've messed around with it, but if I pour water into it, it just drains out the bottom. Either I don't have a complete processing drum or I'm doing something seriously wrong. Your drum should contain 5 pieces: one end cap to which the cup will attach; the cup; the drum section; the disk; and other end piece to which the disk will attach. The disk goes on the end with the holes to form a light trap. This is the end out of which you pour the spent chemicals. The cup goes in the other end. You install the empty cup on this end and pour the chemicals into the cup but not into the drum. Upon tilting the drum to let the chemicals out of the cup into the drum you start the time. You start the process time upon tilting the chemicals out of the cup into the drum. Upon completion of the process time hold the drum straight up and down, pouring the chemical out the opposite end (the end holes and the light trap disk) into a sink, beaker, or pail. You do not have the 5 pieces mentioned in the first sentence you better go to eBay. | I feel embarrassed for asking this: | [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] | it, it just drains out the bottom. Either I don't have a complete | processing drum or I'm doing something seriously wrong. Thanks Glenn. I knew it was a stupid question and it didn't occur to me that once I tilt the drum, that I shouldn't tilt it vertical until I'm done and wish to drain the chemicals! I made my first RA-4 print last night using the Tetenal Mono room temp chemicals. I nailed it on my second sheet of paper. After doing a single test strip, I picked my exposure and added yellow. Second print came out perfect to my eye! Beginners luck...on subsequent prints, I think I had problems with agitation has I had some spots of discoloring. I was just rolling the drum across the floor. I may try using trays next as I'm not sold on the drum. > Your drum should contain 5 pieces: one end cap to which the cup will attach; > the cup; the drum section; the disk; and other end piece to which the disk [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > You do not have the 5 pieces mentioned in the first sentence you better go > to eBay. > Beginners luck...on subsequent prints, I think I had problems with > agitation has I had some spots of discoloring. I was just rolling the > drum across the floor. ... I may try using trays next as I'm not sold > on the drum. Get a motor base, $10 - $30 on ebay, and I think you will be sold on drums.  SignatureNicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio nolindan@ix.netcom.com Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/ > Get a motor base, $10 - $30 on ebay, and I think you will be sold on drums. I got a drum and motor base for $15 on eBay (plus 10 bucks to ship it) Yes, I'm sold ;) In fact I'm quite thrilled with color printing. Color filtration has been a piece of cake for me. I've printed from various films and they all seem to print similarly. > Thanks Glenn. I knew it was a stupid question and it didn't occur to me > that once I tilt the drum, that I shouldn't tilt it vertical until I'm [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > I may try using trays next as I'm not sold on the drum. > By all means, if you're using a room-temperature kit, try using trays. The only thing you have to do in total darkness is development and moving the print to the stop bath. After twenty seconds in stop, you can turn on the lights. As you have already discovered, development goes to completion with this thin-emulsion paper, so that small amounts of over-development are not detectable. Just check the temperature of the developer and make sure that you don't under-develop for the given temperature. Working with trays (if you're not afraid of the dark :-) ) is so much faster than messing with a drum that there is really no comparison. Herb SignatureTo send me email, replace deadspam.com by acm.org > Working with trays (if you're not afraid of the dark :-) ) is so much > faster than messing with a drum that there is really no comparison. I tried trays...but I like the drum and motor-base method. I've got 2 drums so one can dry while I'm working with another. I'm not concerned about throughput. I take my time and its sort of like a zen for me. Then again I also like using Lloyd's single-tray method for B&W... >> Working with trays (if you're not afraid of the dark :-) ) is so much >> faster than messing with a drum that there is really no comparison. > > I tried trays...but I like the drum and motor-base method. I've got 2 > drums so one can dry while I'm working with another. I'm not concerned > about throughput. I take my time and its sort of like a zen for me. Wipe the drums dry. Only takes a few seconds. Nick |
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